xoaphexox
Supernatural Anesthetist
Tonight I recapped my third pair of Pioneer HPM-100's, so I decided to take photos along the way in hopes that it might help someone who has never attempted a recap before, either on these particular speakers or others.
My first step was to purchase parts. For this, I chose Partsexpress. My cart was as follows:
2x 005-10 Mills 10 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor $3.50
2x 027-419 Dayton DMPC-4.3 4.3uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor $1.86
2x 027-220 Dayton PMPC-3.0 3.0uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor $2.79
2x 027-462 Jantzen 0.15uF 1200V Z-Superior Capacitor $7.68
My goal was to replace all three capacitors as well as the resistor for each crossover. I have chosen Solen brand capacitors in the past and find them to be brighter than the Dayton counterpart. They are basically the same price, and since the HPM-100 to my ears is a pretty forward speaker, I went with the Daytons as to not exacerbate the issue.
Here is the speaker prior to doing anything:
Here we see the back of the speaker. Behind this rear panel is the crossover.
Here are the parts that arrived. Note parts shown are for both crossovers:
You will need a phillips head screwdriver to remove the six screws that hold the back panel/crossover to the unit. This part comes off easily.
To fully remove the crossover, I found it easiest to remove the super tweeter from the front. It is attached with four phillips head screws. This will allow you to take the yellow (+) and white (-) wires off the back of the supertweeter. They are the socket-kind and do not require unsoldering. At this point I was able to reach through the speaker from the back and remove both wires from the woofer (blue and white) so that I would not have to mess with unscrewing and removing the woofer. There was plenty of room for my arm. A penlight will help here if you arent in a bright enough room to see the color of the wires as they attach to the woofer posts.
Now that you have the crossover in hand, there are four more screws that hold the crossover board to the black plastic holder, and you can unscrew the speaker posts themselves to allow the crossover to come off completely.
At this point you can use wire clippers, scissors, or needlenose pliers to remove the old caps and resistor. I choose to clip off the old parts and then use desoldering braid to suck up the solder on the pads. The clipped leads that remain just fall out.
Now put the new parts in where you took the old parts out and solder them in well!
It is a pretty straightforward task. Now sit back and enjoy!!
Rob
My first step was to purchase parts. For this, I chose Partsexpress. My cart was as follows:
2x 005-10 Mills 10 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor $3.50
2x 027-419 Dayton DMPC-4.3 4.3uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor $1.86
2x 027-220 Dayton PMPC-3.0 3.0uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor $2.79
2x 027-462 Jantzen 0.15uF 1200V Z-Superior Capacitor $7.68
My goal was to replace all three capacitors as well as the resistor for each crossover. I have chosen Solen brand capacitors in the past and find them to be brighter than the Dayton counterpart. They are basically the same price, and since the HPM-100 to my ears is a pretty forward speaker, I went with the Daytons as to not exacerbate the issue.
Here is the speaker prior to doing anything:
Here we see the back of the speaker. Behind this rear panel is the crossover.
Here are the parts that arrived. Note parts shown are for both crossovers:
You will need a phillips head screwdriver to remove the six screws that hold the back panel/crossover to the unit. This part comes off easily.
To fully remove the crossover, I found it easiest to remove the super tweeter from the front. It is attached with four phillips head screws. This will allow you to take the yellow (+) and white (-) wires off the back of the supertweeter. They are the socket-kind and do not require unsoldering. At this point I was able to reach through the speaker from the back and remove both wires from the woofer (blue and white) so that I would not have to mess with unscrewing and removing the woofer. There was plenty of room for my arm. A penlight will help here if you arent in a bright enough room to see the color of the wires as they attach to the woofer posts.
Now that you have the crossover in hand, there are four more screws that hold the crossover board to the black plastic holder, and you can unscrew the speaker posts themselves to allow the crossover to come off completely.
At this point you can use wire clippers, scissors, or needlenose pliers to remove the old caps and resistor. I choose to clip off the old parts and then use desoldering braid to suck up the solder on the pads. The clipped leads that remain just fall out.
Now put the new parts in where you took the old parts out and solder them in well!
It is a pretty straightforward task. Now sit back and enjoy!!
Rob