Bought another CR-2020

10sguru

Member
Man these units are addictive :D and couldn't resist buying a third CR-2020. At the very least I can use it for spare parts for the working one I already have which was brought back to life by Terry DeWick or for the second one that is at his shop now. Or I may take this one to him as well to get an idea of what it would take to bring it back to life. At any rate picked it up for $50 bucks plus shipping.

The previous owner indicated that it was not working but that the person they received it from said it had been working until they touched a screw on one of the PCB's (see attached picture). Not sure why they were touching the screw but it appears that the there may be a broken trace. Also the tuner string was broken which has been posted in our forum before most likely due to not moving the tuning dial all the way to the right prior to removing from the case. Perhaps Merrylander can throw a opinion my way concerning that screw and it's potential relationship to a circuit trace. I should be able to figure out how to fix the tuner string by looking at my working unit.
 

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Man these units are addictive :D and couldn't resist buying a third CR-2020. At the very least I can use it for spare parts for the working one I already have which was brought back to life by Terry DeWick or for the second one that is at his shop now. Or I may take this one to him as well to get an idea of what it would take to bring it back to life. At any rate picked it up for $50 bucks plus shipping.

The previous owner indicated that it was not working but that the person they received it from said it had been working until they touched a screw on one of the PCB's (see attached picture). Not sure why they were touching the screw but it appears that the there may be a broken trace. Also the tuner string was broken which has been posted in our forum before most likely due to not moving the tuning dial all the way to the right prior to removing from the case. Perhaps Merrylander can throw a opinion my way concerning that screw and it's potential relationship to a circuit trace. I should be able to figure out how to fix the tuner string by looking at my working unit.

That PCB is repairable.A little enameled wire,a little epoxy...Piece of cake! That screw either got over torqued or someone tried to remove that Power supply board without removing that screw or the reciever was dropped or handled roughly.
 
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Merrylander, I'm afraid that is a bit beyond the level of my electronics expertise. Way back in my college days (1971-1975) electronics was the field of emphasis with my Industrial Technology degree and doing this sort of thing would have been of prime interest to me. Alas when I graduated and entered the real world I slid over into the world of Telecommunications first as an Engineer and then as a Network Planner. Now over 34 years later I wish I had been able to develop a greater electronics repair skill set. Electronics has always interested me since an early teen and now that I am into the vintage audio additional skill sets would have have proven to be really useful. I envy the abilities of people like you, Avionic and Terry just to name a few that I have come to know since joining AK back in August. If I just knew a third of what you guys have forgotten I would be brillant:D. I can handle the small easy stuff like relamping but I better leave the more serious stuff up to the experts. Perhaps if I had the tools/test equipment and the time I could learn to do it but for now am willing to pay others. By the way simply a incredible and impressive job on the recap of your CR2020. Seeing that almost makes me want to learn how to do it but I'm still working for corporate America and have way too many other hobbyist irons in the fire. Competitve tennis player at the State and Southern level and hot rodding around in my 2008 Shelby GT500-KR. Anyway I appreciate all that you and the other experts do for the rest of us "dummies" as it is truly a lost art. Cheers

Jim
 
Coincidence, my last job at Bell was Section Manager - Long Range Planning, picking the networks for 5 - 10 years down the road. Telecom was always interesting.
 
is it broke in the bottom left of that picture too? or is that just a board under that board
 
Merrylander, yea I remember reading your profile and saw where you were former Telco. I work for the Local Telco here in Tri-Cities Tennessee (Bristol, Kingsport & Johnson City) and in my current job as a Senior Network Planner am responsible for Planning telecommunications infrastructure for both residential and business that includes not only POTS services but also DSL and Ethernet. It is an interesting industry but unfortunately over the years our Corporate "Big Wigs" have bought into the Dilbert philosophy which has made it not so fun for the last five years or so plus it has become quite competitive as local cable companies and most recently local Municipalities are now offering triple play services (high-speed data, phone service and TV). I really would like to retire but alas I have way too many hobbies that I have to support and now I have one more with this vintage audio habit. Also with the Telecom crash of 2000 my 401K has become a 101K:sigh: which I'm sure has affected many on this forum similarly. I wish my town had a Merrylander type where I could actually learn first hand the finer aspects of vintage electronic repair which is quickly becoming a lost art. From reading the posts on this board it sounds like all the "old school" technicians have more work than they can handle so becoming an apprentice would be pretty cool plus there is no better scenario than taking a hobby and turning it into a source of extra income which could evolve into a second career. At any rate once again my hat is off to those who continue to provide valuable information that allows the rest off us whose repair skills are not so polished to continue enjoying our vintage audio hobby and I continue to be amazed at the magnitude of help and information that is available on this forum.

WD409, I have not received my latest purchase as it is in transit. The picture that I posted was taken by the seller. When it comes in I will check it out further and let you know what I find. Thanks for the input and comments.


Jim
 
Ok Yamaha Gurus. I received the unit via Canadian Post/USPS and I now have additional problems beyond what was previously posted due to rough handling and or insufficient packaging. Here is what I have found:

1. The main power supply board which I knew was already an issue has now pulled completely thru the two mounting screws.

2. Damage to back of the chassis including the pulling thru of the unswitched AC plug-in which broke the top portion of the plastic mount. Doesn't appear to be any damage to the transformer or other components/connections on the back of the chassis.

3. The Electrolytic Cap PCB has been broken

4. Tuning string also an issue previously identified by the seller is broken and the plastic pin to insert thru the pulley to attach it to the mount is missing. Fortunately I found the pulley and the pin could be in the chassis bottom somewhere.

I have attached pictures of these issues. I think I can handle the repair of the tuning string easily enough but may need to find a replacement pin. I also think I will be able to bend the back portion of the chassis close to its original position. I will need to find two replacement screws to secure the electrolytic capacitor holder bracket.

There is some good news in all of this. I only paid $50 for the unit plus of course shipping and the rest of the components are incredibly clean and free of any discoloration/residue/corrosion etc. which is more than I can say for my other working CR-2020 which Terry DeWick did his best to deoxit but all of the switch controls had been exposed to TV tuner spray which Terry said was a common occurrence back in the day consequently they were gummed up pretty bad and still aren't exactly right but they do work. The switch controls on this latest unit operate very smoothly and precisely at least mechanically. I will have to wait and see if I can get it brought back to life to see if they operate electrically. As far as the main power supply board is concerned I'm sure Terry could etch a new board from Merrylander's drawing and then do you just transfer all of the components from the damaged board to the new one? But then what do I do with the electrolytic board? Can it be etched as well and then transfer the components. As always thank you in advance for any assistance and I look forward to I look forward to the comments and suggestions from the Yamaha technician Gurus. Cheers.

Jim
 

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I have straightened back panels like that before, in fact there is a thread here somewhere concerning a 2020 that UPS did its best to destroy. There is also a 1020 here under contract at the moment where I etched both the power board and the relay board, so I have the drawings for both. I also probably have spares of those two broken AC receptacles. So, what else do you need?:D
 
Rob, yes how about one of those plastic pins that attaches a tuning wheel to it's mount. I have searched for the thread for straightening a 2020 back panel but so far nothing yet. Must not be using the right combination of words in the search. Also I found six little white rubber "dome" tips laying between the transformer and the back panel. See picture. Any idea what they are and where they go? Thanks.
 

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Yamaha put those white plastic caps over the ends of the screws holding the speaker terminal boards in place, why I have no idea. To straighten the rear panel I use a pair of large 12" adjustable pliers set for about a 3/8" gap and that gives me the leverage to bend the panel back into place.

Not sure what you mean by plastic pins for the tuning wheel. The black pulley (wheel) on the tuning cap is usually held with two screws or is a serrated push on.
 
Rob,

Actually the more accurate description of what I need is the plastic push pin that fastens a tuning string pulley wheel to it’s mount. See attached picture. Also once I get the new power and relay boards etched do you just remove the components from the old boards and transfer to the new boards excluding of course any component enhancements per SB’s. Thanks.
 

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Rob,

Actually the more accurate description of what I need is the plastic push pin that fastens a tuning string pulley wheel to it’s mount. See attached picture. Also once I get the new power and relay boards etched do you just remove the components from the old boards and transfer to the new boards excluding of course any component enhancements per SB’s. Thanks.

This on a little bracket attached to the R side?

BTW, as much as I loathe bubble wrap, a little might have saved that thing such a beating. Sheesh. People just do not get it.
 
Well there are actually two of them on the right side and two in the front. However tonite as I was working on straightening the back panel guess what suddenly appeared on the work table as I was repositioning the unit;the missing pin. It must have been in the bottom of the chassis all this time. All in all the packing of this unit was poor at best. I have managed to almost get the back side of the chassis bent back into it's proper alignment by placing the nose of a pair of pliers in between the inner side of the back chassis and a small 1/4" piece of metal plating resting against the transformer. I then grasped the handles and pulled them apart creating a spreading action. Not perfect yet as I may try a pair of expand-o pliers (see picture) to complete the chassis realignment. I will post up before and after pics.
 

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This is my favourite chassis straightener. BTW see you found the pin but I probably have some of those parts as well.
 
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I have successfully realigned the chassis. :banana: See picture of the ugliness before and the good as new after. The expando pliers purchased from Harbor Freight for $15 was just the ticket. I was somewhat fortunate that the frame chassis was bent behind the transformer as I was able to use the 1/4" metal brace to provide additional support in reforming all areas that were bent without jeopardizing the integrity of the transformer.
 

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Now that I have restored the back panel of the chassis to its proper position I'm thinking of tackling the Power Board and Relay Board. I’m pretty certain the Power Board has been compromised as it is broken on a side edge with a component that has come completely off the board. I know Merrylander has etched this Board but that is a bit out of my league. If there is anyone here that is willing to do that please send me a PM to discuss details. So at this point if I can get an etched or donor Power Board I think I can move everything over and will also attempt the necessary repair to the Relay Board per Avionic’s note about using a little enameled wire and epoxy as well as SB's. Also since the two mounting holes for the Relay Board have become enlarged is it okay to use a flat washer so I can snug the screws down so they don’t pull thru making sure the washers do not touch any circuit traces?
 
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