C-60 Delima
- Thread starter M@tt
- Start date
M@tt
Active Member
Well, I took it to work today. We have a a lot of really nice Weller WD-1 stations.
As a result I didn't get to test the preout. I used my headphone out and poked around and could not get it to crap out on me. Is the headphone out associated with the suspect pass transistors?
Either way I reflowed the solder on those and most of the buss bars. It was my first time reflowing, and it went better than I expected. I'm sure the Weller had a lot to do with it. It was hot almost instantly. A huge step up from the rat-shack 30a I've used on other things.
Didn't bring the nice camera so I only have one picture to make this post worth while. I'll report back if my problem isn't fixed... not sure what I would do at that point, but at least I know who I will be trying to have sort the thing out.
Ohh yeah this thing has all of the screwholes that hold the top on but one busted. You can see in this pic and the one above. My guess is some heavy gear was placed on top. I'm planning on getting some 18ga straps to tie the top to the bottom, but is there a better way?
Thanks again for all the help.
Matt
As a result I didn't get to test the preout. I used my headphone out and poked around and could not get it to crap out on me. Is the headphone out associated with the suspect pass transistors?
Either way I reflowed the solder on those and most of the buss bars. It was my first time reflowing, and it went better than I expected. I'm sure the Weller had a lot to do with it. It was hot almost instantly. A huge step up from the rat-shack 30a I've used on other things.
Didn't bring the nice camera so I only have one picture to make this post worth while. I'll report back if my problem isn't fixed... not sure what I would do at that point, but at least I know who I will be trying to have sort the thing out.
Ohh yeah this thing has all of the screwholes that hold the top on but one busted. You can see in this pic and the one above. My guess is some heavy gear was placed on top. I'm planning on getting some 18ga straps to tie the top to the bottom, but is there a better way?
Thanks again for all the help.
Matt
Well, I took it to work today. We have a a lot of really nice Weller WD-1 stations.
As a result I didn't get to test the preout. I used my headphone out and poked around and could not get it to crap out on me. Is the headphone out associated with the suspect pass transistors?
Either way I reflowed the solder on those and most of the buss bars. It was my first time reflowing, and it went better than I expected. I'm sure the Weller had a lot to do with it. It was hot almost instantly. A huge step up from the rat-shack 30a I've used on other things.
Didn't bring the nice camera so I only have one picture to make this post worth while. I'll report back if my problem isn't fixed... not sure what I would do at that point, but at least I know who I will be trying to have sort the thing out.
Ohh yeah this thing has all of the screwholes that hold the top on but one busted. You can see in this pic and the one above. My guess is some heavy gear was placed on top. I'm planning on getting some 18ga straps to tie the top to the bottom, but is there a better way?
Thanks again for all the help.
Matt
Those plastic side pieces are always broken. Use a small flat washer when you reassemble it. BTW with the covers removed, touching the front panel will cause a slight hum. I use a alligator clip lead to ground the front metal panel to the rear metal panel.This eliminates the annoying hum.
pdm4606
Super Member
solder joints
My C-50 has the same construction and I can tell you the boards are spring boards. Many dropouts as I flexed the boards.
I pulled the thing apart and started resoldering as I went. Magni-Focus magnifier required for this.
I may have done 50 or 60 resolders. Everywhere I looked I found questionable joints. After I finished I could not get dropouts when I flexed the circuit boards.
I also replaced the 2 caps near the trans. and 2 large caps. near the center.
My next job is replacing the relays with gold plated contact relays.
The wiring to the relays is different requiring me to make a wiring jig for each relay to compensate.
Paul
My C-50 has the same construction and I can tell you the boards are spring boards. Many dropouts as I flexed the boards.
I pulled the thing apart and started resoldering as I went. Magni-Focus magnifier required for this.
I may have done 50 or 60 resolders. Everywhere I looked I found questionable joints. After I finished I could not get dropouts when I flexed the circuit boards.
I also replaced the 2 caps near the trans. and 2 large caps. near the center.
My next job is replacing the relays with gold plated contact relays.
The wiring to the relays is different requiring me to make a wiring jig for each relay to compensate.
Paul
M@tt
Active Member
Still Flaky
Well I'm still having trouble, but I'm not able to reproduce the problem. I guess I've made some improvement by those standards.
I didn't do this last time. I guess I will have at it again... Are there any other things I need to consider?
Thanks,
Matt
Well I'm still having trouble, but I'm not able to reproduce the problem. I guess I've made some improvement by those standards.
I didn't do this last time. I guess I will have at it again... Are there any other things I need to consider?
Thanks,
Matt
M@tt
Active Member
Sorry for the ambiguous response. It's the same problem.
It seems to happen less often now and I can't make it happen.
All inputs sound the same? I'm thinking maybe a broken RCA jack.Next time it craps wiggle whichever input your using.
M@tt
Active Member
I've taken a deep breath and decided to have at this thing again.
Avionic, the inputs are all doing the same thing, however, I noticed when I first used the C-60 that there was some scratchiness in the input selector switches. Is there any trick to cleaning those?
If that doesn't work I'm going to reflow all the solders and physically attach the transistor heat sinks to the board. (Brute force, sort of)
Just a rehash of what's happening now; The loud hum no longer happens, but a channel will either get very quiet or totally stop working. Touching the switches does not seem to help. A light rap on the face or picking up the C-60 will usually set it straight, but sometimes a second try will make it cut out again. This is happening to both channels on both the tuner input and the Digital Audio Source.
Moving the RCAs around had no impact.
Thanks,
Matt
Avionic, the inputs are all doing the same thing, however, I noticed when I first used the C-60 that there was some scratchiness in the input selector switches. Is there any trick to cleaning those?
If that doesn't work I'm going to reflow all the solders and physically attach the transistor heat sinks to the board. (Brute force, sort of)
Just a rehash of what's happening now; The loud hum no longer happens, but a channel will either get very quiet or totally stop working. Touching the switches does not seem to help. A light rap on the face or picking up the C-60 will usually set it straight, but sometimes a second try will make it cut out again. This is happening to both channels on both the tuner input and the Digital Audio Source.
Moving the RCAs around had no impact.
Thanks,
Matt
