Will I notice a difference between my JVC QL-Y5F and a Denon DP-59L or DP-57L/DP62L

williwoods said:

ok now I need some help with the setup on my Phono stage/cart loading.

2 things:

1) The phono inputs on my Kyocera A-710 has a switch that is labeled "Input IMP" it has two settings, High and Normal. Currently is set to Normal. I would have expected this to be related to capacitance. Maybe it is? any ideas?

2) The Phono Stage has loading settings for MM and MC. My AT-OC9ML/II spec says ideal loading is 20 Ohms. My Phono Stage has 10 Ohms, 40 Ohms and 100 Ohms on the MC setting. Whats better? 10 Ohm or 40 Ohm? If anything I would like to tame the highs a bit, which setting should do that?

I have played around with all of this but have not as of yet settled on what I like the most. Just curious what the conventional wisdom would be on ideal setup.

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First off, congratulations on your new table. It's a beauty.

Frequency response shouldn't change with loading a LOMC straight in. If it does and sounds bright/harsh, then you're getting an RFI like noise. Not much you can do except load it as low as necessary.
Conventional wisdom says capacitance loading doesn't matter with a LOMC, because it's immune. Conventional wisdom is wrong. Capacitance has the affect of lowering high frequency resonance of a cart and making overload potential more likely. It's an overload/oscillation situation which intermodulates and causes the harsh sound. The OC9 measures flat as a pancake otherwise.
Here's an interesting discussion on the topic:
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1424065925&openfrom&1&4#1
neo

williwoods said:

Pics of the DP-62L

....

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....oh.....nice !

belyin said:

I have a DP-75 with a "runaway" speed problem, and my tech thinks what he calls the "sync chip" needs replacement, which he is unable to locate. Do you have any suggestions where to look to source this part (or a tech experienced with these tables?)

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There's a guy in upstate or mid-state NY that seems to know his stuff about these- member Majick47 had him re-cap his DP-75. I was under the impression from him the ICs were readilybavailable but I could be wrong. Hopefully he'll chime in with the person's info.

Sorry to hear about your DP-75 woes. They are such a nice table.

IC issues are often actually not the problem and are misdiagnosed as such.

At least in the case of Victor tables and I would hazard a guess similar situation with Denon's.

I own a Victor TT-101 and although they can have problems as with any very complicated drive I can not recall a documented case where an IC was the culprit.

Without getting too far from the track of this thread. I'd want to ask if there are particular other vintage TTs that are at risk on needing unobtainium parts. In my particular case I have a JVC QL-7

totem said:

IC issues are often actually not the problem and are misdiagnosed as such.

At least in the case of Victor tables and I would hazard a guess similar situation with Denon's.

I own a Victor TT-101 and although they can have problems as with any very complicated drive I can not recall a documented case where an IC was the culprit.

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I share your doubt about the IC, and I am not sure my tech really has a handle on it. Does anyone know a repair person with good knowledge of these Denon tables?

williwoods said:

I want to Upgrade to a nicer Turntable.

My desire to upgrade is based on two things.

Secondly I have always lusted over the higher end Denons. The specs seem to indicate better performance all around compared to my JVC, I am just worried that If I spend the $$$$ that I might not think it was a big enough upgrade to justify the expense. I do want a second TT anyway so it wouldnt really be a big deal I am just trying to set my expectations right.

I guess the main thing is that If I spend up to ~$1000 for a new TT that it will outperform what I already have noticeably.

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I tend to agree with most of the replies here.... if you use the same cartridge, performance will be similar, or slightly improved at best.

I've had several fine TT's over the years I've been on AK. Recently added a JVC QL-Y55F with a Stanton 980 cartridge. Great performer, but no better then the other nice TT's that I have. BEAUTIFUL Rosewood trim that makes it my favorite over the PL-L1000 or even the LT-20. I bought it mainly for it's looks, as it sits in the main system in the living room

A friend's LT-30, another great looker, sits in the corner with a broken arm drive gear... virtually Unobtanium.

I've lusted after the Demons, but never came upon one that I could afford.

Belyin I'd be looking around locally for another tech that has more experience with high end vintage direct drive turntables. The DP-75 along with the DP-80 from what I'v seen and read have had a very decent track record of reliability and shouldn't present any major roadblocks to servicing.

In my experience Belyin (a dozen DP's and counting) you do NOT have a chip problem. 1st thing to check (free) is the head gap between the tape head/speed sensor and the platter. Most Denon's are .018mm. I set mine at .0152 (as that happens to be a feeler gauge I have). Set it too close and you can actually make the TT go backwards! Along with that check to see if the part of the platter that the head "reads" is not scratched or otherwise compromised (free). The TT uses spots on the platter to reference the sync. If this doesn't fix it (1 out of 3 times it does in my experience) you need an electrolytic recap. If your tech is measuring 5V out of the chip pin for the speed (I think pin 16-service manual is available at Vinyl Engine and it's late :-0) the recap should get you back to good-he will need to set the VR levels with a scope but we're talking it should be within a few rpm of exact at this point. Recap all the electrolytics including the one on the motorboard--we're talking $20 worth of audio grade Nichicon parts here total.. and a few hours of work. Also, have him hit any suspicious solder joints with a hot gun-you'd be amazed at what passed QC at Denon back in the day on their solder work... Hope this helps