Vibrations and smearing.

The TV may be an issue for you as it's not solid but contains internal vibrations which causes smearing of the sound. You may not notice it until you correct the smearing and the sound improves. Gear with moving parts have internal vibration as well...You have to decouple the turntable from the top of TV and at same time direct vibrations away from table. If not willing to remove TV out of the configuration, I suggest nice thick maple block to rest TT on with nice spiked feet under it seeing TV has vibrations.
 
Last edited:
The TV may be an issue for you as it's not solid but contains internal vibrations which causes smearing of the sound. You may not notice it until you correct the smearing and the sound improves. Gear with moving parts have internal vibration as well...You have to decouple the turntable from the top of TV and at same time direct vibrations away from table. If not willing to remove TV out of the configuration, I suggest nice thick maple block to rest TT on with nice spiked feet under it seeing TV has vibrations.

The TV is off, like main power is always off....but I hear ya man! Its not the best and I am sure it picks up some vibrations..but with a normal plinth style TT I bet I would hear smearing.

I have been thinking of the cutting board idea, I have a 1.5" thick eucalyptus cutting board, which that species of wood is denser than maple....But what spike feet will work with our table and keep the motor at the right height?
 
The TV is off, like main power is always off....but I hear ya man! Its not the best and I am sure it picks up some vibrations..but with a normal plinth style TT I bet I would hear smearing.

I have been thinking of the cutting board idea, I have a 1.5" thick eucalyptus cutting board, which that species of wood is denser than maple....But what spike feet will work with our table and keep the motor at the right height?

Remember...the new spikes would go under the wood block. You want to isolate the entire table and wood block from the top of TV.
 
There was a random post somewhere on AK talking about those practice golf balls golfers use to fine tune their swing. They only go about 30 feet, no matter how hard you hit them, usually yellow.

Trick was to place them under the cups of tt's, or cut in half for other things.

Worth a try.

Has anyone tried using the pool floaties? I cut these into 2'' sections, and placed under some gear. Was effective at cutting down mistracks and thuds.


Haven't seen the thread on practice golf balls.
I have tried street hockey balls though.

The magic ingredient is EVA foam.
One of the best vibration damping materials available.
It's cheap it's everywhere and it works.
Yoga mats, street hockey balls, practice golf balls etc...

Art
 
I read this thread with great interest.

I have recently acquired a VPI HW-19 Mk IV with an RB-900. I have subsequently acquired an SME 309 tonearm (for which I need an armboard) and a TNT 3 platter.

I have been exploring different configurations of materials to use to make a new plinth on which to mount the platter bearing and tonearm.

Reading through this thread has given me valuable information, new ideas and much to consider.

Thanks!!

Steve
 
You're welcome Steve! Let us know what you come up with, and don't forget to show pictures!:yes:

Here it is. The plinth was carved from a slab of 6061 aluminum, 21" X 16" X 2" thick. The plinth weighs about 60 pounds.

The motor is now a 300 RPM/flywheel version.

attachment.php
 
Here it is. The plinth was carved from a slab of 6061 aluminum, 21" X 16" X 2" thick. The plinth weighs about 60 pounds.

The motor is now a 300 RPM/flywheel version.

Really nice Steve.
How does it sound?
I don't see a headshell in place so maybe you haven't listened to it yet.

Any more pics?
How about some from underneath, showing some details of the construction?

60 lbs is good.
To quote Jean Nantais: Mass Is Class.

Really nice Steve.

Art
 
Here it is. The plinth was carved from a slab of 6061 aluminum, 21" X 16" X 2" thick. The plinth weighs about 60 pounds.

The motor is now a 300 RPM/flywheel version.

This is from earsc.com.
An IBM company. (no affiliation)
Lots of good information there.
Isodamp, mentioned below, is one of their products

A loss factor of 0.1 is generally considered a minimum value for significant damping. Compared to this value, most commonly used materials, such as steel, aluminum and most rubbers, do not have a high level of damping. Other specialized materials can have very high damping. Here are some materials and their approximate loss factor.

Material: Approximate Loss Factor

Aluminum: 0.007 - 0.005

Steel:0.05 - 0.10:

Neoprene: 0.1

Butyl Rubber: 0.4

ISODAMP® C-1002 thermoplastic: 1.0


Art
 
Just ordered some ebony speaker spikes with copper tips and matching pads from that auction site...

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk 2
 
about 3-5cm more is what I need from my listening seat I think.
i'm hoping the addition of the spikes will make them look kool, by exposing the redgum wood on my DIY stands :smoke:
 
Interesting thread. Years ago during the good days of government surplus sales, I ended up with a lot that had two stacks of 1" thick phenolic (MIL I 24768/13, FBE [Linen]. I also have 5/16 and 3/8 sheets of different composites (cotton or paper) that I cut up to use as shelves in the armoire that hold my Sansui separates.

After reading this thread, I Googled the vibration dampening characteristics of phenolic, and it seems to give excellent results.

A 31" X 48" sheet weighs in excess of 100# Maybe two pieces of 1" with a piece of 3/8 sandwiched in between would make a good dampening base, cut into appropriate sizes.

May have to look into that after we sell this place and move.

Here's a photo of the (dusty) 1" material:

phenolic.jpg
 
As I said above, I was expecting the SQ benefit to stop short of the tweeter level enhancement. Wrong. The overall SQ has improved not to a subtle extent at all. As my wife observed, it has become a lot more cool and clear. That said, the other positive attributes did not lose their charm in compensation at all.

Although I ordered the matching spike pads, I did not bother using them as it is always better to whack the spikes into the surface. Since I did not want to leave holes on the speakers I attached the spikes on the bottom of the speakers, and whacked them into the speaker top (the redgum wood slabs). I think it was a great idea, although I am a slightly concerned about a little crack on the slabs that I discovered as I installed the spikes.

CIMG5837_zps2099c68c.jpg


Now I'm quite tempted to order another set of these spikes, install them on the bottom of the stands and whack them into the timber floor....
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom