Which of these 3 Hickok Tube Testers would you choose?

Taken in to account that all three will need calibration and cosmetic clean up etc.
and if the primary tubes being checked are
KT88 EL34 KT77 KT90 ( and other variation from these types)
12au7 , 12ax7, 6922, 6DJ8 , 12BH7(a)
EL84 etc etc


The TESTER contenders being

Hickok 600
Hickok 800A
Hickok 6000

which seem to all be fairly similar. If you had to choose only 1 ( unless there's some pressing benefit to own 2 other than for back-up and the love of hoarding).

which would you choose and why?

also where on the web can I find the most up to date manuals and Tube "roll chart" information for these testers? The plan is to just print it out and put it in a binder instead of futzing around with the roll chart on the unit ( which is out of date and missing a few of the tubes I most commonly use).

and finally... Who is the best "reasonably priced" repair tech / tester guru to send a Hickok tester to be refurbed / calibrated etc..

I have a 600a that I use quite a bit. I would prefer the 6000 just because it is newer.

Here is a link that explains pros and cons:
http://www.tubewizard.com/recommended_Hickok_testers.htm


Tube Chart:
http://www.saegerradio.com/download... Hickok Model 533A-600A-605A Tube Testers.pdf

I can only comment on the 800A, which I have.
I sent it to some calibration guy on ebay. He did a fine job. This was five years ago, though I do not feel compelled to do a recalibration . . . because:
I also bought a calibration tube (a 6L6), which is a tube with known reference test characteristics that you measure on your tester.

I have an 8 1/2 x 11 page with a table on it. On that table are the most popular tubes.
You'll find similarities, for example, the 12AX7/5751/7025 all use exactly the same test.

These are all still go/nogo testers that do not test tubes at full voltage. Only a tester that runs tubes at full voltage or in-circuit matching or bias setup on the amp can be the final arbiter.

Thanks for the Feedback Don,
I thought there might be a few more folks chiming in but perhaps not.

Hello

Any of the Hickok testers with the dots on the shunt control are a good/bad test but not very accurate for true Gm readings. The shunt and bias controls can be a little flaky. I still have love for my 6000. Having owned at least a dozen testers(I now use an Amplitrex), I would consider a later model Jackson myself. They were extremely well made and are easy to calibrate. Still a good/bad test.

They are all about on the same level, I guess that's why not a whole lot of people are chiming in.

Hiya,

These are later design Hickok's which were introduced to the market to compete with the other lower end testers that were flooding the market in the late 50's into the early 70's.

They are fine testers but not at the level of other Hickok testers such as the 539 series or the TV-7.

Anyone would do a excellent job of testing tubes but the testing would be a basic to good level.

But finding or building a tester to do "Real Testing" is that last 5% IMHO. These are good enough to satisfy 95% of a hobbyist needs. Getting that last 5% can get crazy expensive like with anything else. And even at that its not an exact science. No matter what anyone tells you. There is no 100% tube tester on earth. There are methods and tools and experience that gets you close but are not infallible.

So in the end anyone of those testers would be a fine buy for a audiophile. Most of you guys listen to music right and consider testing tubes an necessary evil taking you away from that music right ???

Frannie

There is a 100% tester but that is the actual circuit you use the tube in.

Hiya,

There is a 100% tester but that is the actual circuit you use the tube in.

Click to expand...

Only if the other components in the circuit are 100% tested and at 100% specs as well.

Drift and errors in calculation's can occur outside the bottle.

Yes I am being argumentative but we are talking that last 5% and that is where things get serious.

Frannie

GO/NO GO - PASS/ FAIL is about the extent of my needs. I'll leave the extensive angonizing testing and scrutiny to the experts and just pay the cost for their services should I ever own gear that will dramatically perform better with that level of quality in NOS tubes and matching etc.

Not quite there , nor do I suspect that I'll ever be there.
Admittedly I make pancakes from the box mix sometimes and I don't always use TIDE brand detergent. sinful behavior I'm sure.

All three you mention are essentially the same circuit and tester. They differ primarily in age and what sockets they offer. For the tubes you've mentioned any would do - just pick the best condition.

If you need to test 4 pin tubes (2A3, 45, 300B) you should avoid the 6000. On the other hand if you need compactrons it would be a good choice.

Perhaps ironic that the 6000 can't even test its own 83 rectifier!

I personally find that tube testers can be a pita to repair - especially if the sockets are worn and the switches flakey. Condition is key - and any used "as-is" tester should be avoided - and any tester found with the panel screws missing is rarely in reasonable shape.

If you're lucky and find one, the military TV7's are also very similar in circuitry, but have a better build quality.

Some of the emission testers are less expensive and for simple go-no go troubleshooting will work fine.

Lastly, I'm about an hour north of Boston and can test just about anything you'd likely run into and also have curve tracers etc. Bring wine.

- Gary

Hello!

I have a Hickok 6000 and it can test the old tubes but not compactrons without the adapter. I think it is the 6000a that is the other way around. And I don't think you can switch the red panels betwen the 6000 and 6000A. The socket is slightly different between the 2. I tried at one time. I am saying this not being a Hickok expert. Mine can test 2A3 and 45 type tubes but has no setting on the chart for 300B. It tests 2A3 tubes low compared to my Amplitrex.

I just ran across this thread, but there are some misconceptions in it that should be clarified: the 6000 series testers had various adapters available (the red section) to test different types of tubes. I have one that does compactrons, and another that does the really old stuff. I don't know for certain, but I *think* the 6000 and 6000A adapter sections are the same.

Hello!

They look the same, but the socket in one of them has an extra pin if I am remembering correctly. I don't believe you can switch adapters between the 6000 and 6000A. I tried at one point with a friend. I no longer have the tester. The shunt and bias controls were too flaky for me to live with and they have a weird taper with no modern replacements available. That is why trying to find someone willing to work on a Hickok is now bordering on impossible. My vote for best tester still under the radar is a Jackson 648 series. Excellent documentation available from Jim Cross for these testers also.