Sony TA-N80ES Recap

CohibaJoe · Oct 28, 2014

Seems a few Sony TA-N80ES thread have surfaced..I will be going down another Path. Not too Far but Closer to Original Caps used.

As I Posted in Dollars and Sense: Sony TA-NA80ES Amp, Sony N220 Amp, Sony TA-ES2000ESD Pre-Amp, Sony ST-S730ES Tuner for C-Note.. :banana:

I also have the 2 Great Supply Caps bulging on top (It's not the plastic).

I will be going for Extended Life Caps, High Ripple, 105Deg and Audio Caps as needed. There are Nichicon Muse Green Caps used thought out this Amp. Maybe use ELNA RBD Series (Bi-Polar)? or ELNA SILMIC II ?

So I with throw out a List and let see were this goes....

Power Board C3xx Cap selection: Bumping up 80v to 100v. Give this some more Legroom.
(6) Vishay/BC Components 4700uf/100v
(4) Nichicon PW 1000uf/100v
(4) Nichicon PW 47f/100v
(4) (4) Nichicon PW 22uf/100v
(6) ELNA RBD Bi-Polar or SILMIC II 47uf/100v
(2) ELNA RBD Bi-Polar or SILMIC II 1uf/100v

Main Board:
(2) EPCOS B41456 22000uf/100v
(1) Nichicon PW 1000uf/50v
(1) Nichicon PW 10uf/50v

Will Update later today....

restorer-john · Oct 28, 2014

Have you actually put this on a bench before deciding to replace all these caps?

Just leave it alone and listen to it.

CohibaJoe · Oct 28, 2014

restorer-john said:
Have you actually put this on a bench before deciding to replace all these caps?

Just leave it alone and listen to it.

I have and sounds Very Fine.....

The 2 Great Supply Caps are Bulging on Top..It's NOT the Plastic wrap.

The 2 Main Caps 22000uf/80v have a Dimple on the Bottom...

These items alone do need to be Replaced...Since I have this apart...A Complete restore will be done (Very Easy to access).

As I said...I am sticking with High Quality Caps and only use the Audio Grade Caps were they are on the Board. This is not a Amp I will be messing with. Going thru some other threads it's seem using Audio Grade thru out has a Small change in sound.

I do like to to go Crazy with Parts...But this one I will stay as Designed.

Will be completing the List tonight.

vincei · Oct 28, 2014

While you are in there, may as well change the BIAS and OFFSET pots to some sealed multiturns. Also, check for cracked solder joints around the transistors (regulators) on the side (power) board.

mhedges · Oct 28, 2014

I used Elna Silmic II's. I wouldn't use anything bigger - the Silmics were already a bit of a tight fit.

CohibaJoe · Oct 28, 2014

mhedges said:
I used Elna Silmic II's. I wouldn't use anything bigger - the Silmics were already a bit of a tight fit.

Agree....ELNA SILMIC II are going in for Muse. Time to Order...:yes:

Main Board:
(2) EPCOS B41456 22000uf/100v
(1) Nichicon PW 1000uf/50v
(1) Nichicon PW 10uf/50v

Power Board C3xx Cap selection: Bumping up 80v to 100v. Give this some more Legroom.
(6) Vishay/BC Components 4700uf/100v
(4) Nichicon PW 1000uf/100v
(4) ELNA SILMIC II 47uf/100v
(4) ELNA SILMIC II 22uf/100v
(6) ELNA SILMIC II 47uf/100v
(2) ELNA BP 1uf/100v

Protection:
(2) Nichicon PW 10uf/50v
(1) ELNA SILMIC II 220uf/25v
(2) Nichicon PW 100uf/25v
(1) Nichicon PW 100uf/50v
(1) Nichicon PW 220uf/50v

Balance Amp:
(2) ELNA SILMIC II 470uf/35v
(2) ELNA SILMIC II 10uf/50v
(2) ELNA SILMIC II 10uf/100v

Front Speaker Switch:
(1) Nichicon PW 4.7uf/50v

mhedges · Oct 28, 2014

What's the rear speaker connection board? That doesn't ring a bell.

CohibaJoe · Oct 28, 2014

mhedges said:
What's the rear speaker connection board? That doesn't ring a bell.

Nice catch....It is the Balance Amp Board.

mhedges · Oct 29, 2014

CohibaJoe said:
Nice catch....It is the Balance Amp Board.

Ah yes thats it. I took that out of mine so I didn't worry about those caps. I also didn't change out the one on the front switch.

One suggestion - while you have it apart take a good look at the input RCA's and resolder if necessary. They are a weak point on these amps. On both of my amps the R fixed RCA jack was open, and I have heard of a lot of other people having the same problem.

CohibaJoe · Dec 6, 2014

Power Board Done...

I have Updated the Cap list as to the Audio Grade caps that were used.

BIAS check....15mV
Offset: 0V

Next up...Protection Board

Bigerik · Dec 6, 2014

Looking good!

CohibaJoe · Dec 6, 2014

Protection Board Done...

CohibaJoe · Dec 6, 2014

Balance Amp Done and Front Speaker Switch (No Pic as just 1 cap).

CohibaJoe · Dec 6, 2014

Still waiting for the EPCOS Mounting Claps(65mm)..

So I am going to Burn-In the Sony.

Tell you 1 thing....This sucker Kick's A*S....

CohibaJoe · Dec 11, 2014

50hr Sound Check....This Amp goes Low and is VERY CLEAN with No back ground Hiss.

ELNA SILMIC II 25hrs caps start to Open Up....50hrs now we are Talking.

What started as a Tunnel of sound...The flower is Blooming..100hrs and Full Steam Ahead.

Still waiting for the EPCOS Mounting Claps from Mouser.

kotofei · Dec 11, 2014

CohibaJoe said:
...

Still waiting for the EPCOS Mounting Claps from Mouser.

I just recapped a Sony TA-N77ES and ordered 24000 uF/100V Nippon Chemicon from Digikey to replace the main caps. They arrived with clamps; however, I couldn't install them since I can't attach the clamp to the board. The clamp is metal and has three "ears" with holes for screws spaced simmetrically. I can't fit these "ears" to the empty space on the board: in any clamp position, at least one of the ears sits on some jumpers or other components.

WIthout the clamp, the capacitors are not stable. Worse, their screw terminals protrude a bit from the bottom so they are just shaky.

Joe, what exactly Mouser part# for capacitors and clamps you ordered?

CohibaJoe · Dec 19, 2014

kotofei said:
I just recapped a Sony TA-N77ES and ordered 24000 uF/100V Nippon Chemicon from Digikey to replace the main caps. They arrived with clamps; however, I couldn't install them since I can't attach the clamp to the board. The clamp is metal and has three "ears" with holes for screws spaced simmetrically. I can't fit these "ears" to the empty space on the board: in any clamp position, at least one of the ears sits on some jumpers or other components.

WIthout the clamp, the capacitors are not stable. Worse, their screw terminals protrude a bit from the bottom so they are just shaky.

Joe, what exactly Mouser part# for capacitors and clamps you ordered?

1st...Due to the space between the Main Caps...A Mounting Clap will not work. Going to use a Wrap around Bracket. Mouser has a few..Will update the thread on Part #.

2nd...The EPCOS caps has a nice size foot as the foot does not wobble. The Black stuff on the bottom is Liquid Tape.

Will report back on the :music:

CohibaJoe · Dec 20, 2014

24hrs and going STRONG!!!!!!

A Brand New set of Main Caps work SO GOOD!!!!!!

As I say....It's like taking a Blanket off the Speakers.

Clean and Clear Sound...EPCOS goes Lower then any Main Cap I have used. Strong Strong Low End thru Mids and Clean Highs.

I have found some Strap Brackets on Mouser. Ordered and will post next week.

FYI....The EPCOS had opened up around 20hrs.

mhedges · Dec 20, 2014

Cool.

Where did you get the EPCOS caps? I'm still thinking of changing the main caps in my N80ES amps.

You don't have to take that board out to change those, do you?

CohibaJoe · Dec 20, 2014

mhedges said:
Cool.

Where did you get the EPCOS caps? I'm still thinking of changing the main caps in my N80ES amps.

You don't have to take that board out to change those, do you?

There not cheap.....

EPCOS Part#B41456B9229M

http://www.newark.com/epcos/b41456b9229m/capacitor-alum-elec-22000uf-100v/dp/60K1745

You do NOT have to take the board out. But need to drill a larger hole in the Copper Strip. MAKE sure you drill from the bottom and hold down strip when SLOWLY drilling.

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