Help servicing a Sony TC366 RTR

I recently purchased a Sony TC 366 Reel to Reel deck. It looks like the earlier owner did some work on it judging by cut wires. I decided to remove the front panel and try to fix the unit but am having problems removing the panel. I removed the obvious fastenings but there must be more. Do the heads & mounting hardware also have to be removed? These mounting screws are painted with dabs of red paint. Any help would be appreciated.

Do not remove the heads or mounting hardware! If you look near the head area you will see 2 posts that the head cover goes on. These unscrew and then you can get the top panel off.

That was easy, I considered those but discounted them. Two seconds after I read your reply the top came off. Thank you Dr*Audio

studiolabber said:

That was easy, I considered those but discounted them. Two seconds after I read your reply the top came off. Thank you Dr*Audio

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Glad I could help and welcome to AK!:thmbsp:

Thank you again, I've always been interested in classic audio equipment. Most of my first pieces were bought new but are now "classics"
Doc, would you know where I can locate a wiring diagram of the 366?. Lots of wires have been cut and I would like to see if I can at least make an attempt to resurrect it and reconnect the butchered work done to it

studiolabber said:

....Doc, would you know where I can locate a wiring diagram of the 366?. Lots of wires have been cut and I would like to see if I can at least make an attempt to resurrect it and reconnect the butchered work done to it

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There is a pretty good service manual at :
http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/sony/tc-366.shtml

registrations is mandatory but free of charge

Thanks Jan, I loaded it, looks good

I thought I loaded it. I loaded a mess of additional software that I dont want or need so I deleted it and started again. When you go into the hifiengine web site it looks like you have no choice but to go to another site to download manuals etc. it doesn't look like I can get it from hifi engine. Any suggestions?

Just right click on the blue text under 'downloads'. and save. I've always done it thast way, no probs.

It's so east when you ask the experts, thank you eclectic, I downloaded just what I was looking for with no additional junk

That is "easy"

If I have learned anything about working on gear, it is to have patience and ask first from those who know, rather than tear into something and be real sorry later.... the folks here are "the best of the best"... I wouldn't be squat into this hobby without my AK buddies!

I'm finding that out. This is a great site with really helpful enthusiasts. I'm afraid I do tend to try things first, I'm not used to be able to get a "skilled" response to a specific tech question.
The service manual sit has a lot of detail but could do with some Q&A for machine problems. The TC366 I acquired has been poorly stored as there is a lot of rust present. I am trying to trying to get some basic functions but could do with some mechanical and electrical advise.
I can't figure out why, when I try to start the tape drive, the motor drives the belt which drives the pulley which drives the tape hubs. Unfortunately, the take-up reel, although it spins, does not drive the flywheel & so the bumper does not drive the tape.
Initially it did work and I even got audio but the audio ran backwards. It is a good tape and its not wound on the reel backwards....for sure.
Any suggestions on why the flywheel is not been driven?. The take-up reel is been driven but the belt that goes from it to the flywheel stays stationary, slips I guess. I checked the fly wheel brake & manually released it to see if it was jammed but it made no difference. I also tried turning the fly wheel by hand as the take-up wheel was being driven but no go.
Thanks guys (& ladies)

I'm pretty sure there is an idler wheel that goes from the motor to the flywheel and that's what drives it.

Right - there is an idler wheel that goes between the motor pulley and the big flywheel that drives the capstan during play. What you are describing with the belt and the small idler for the spindles is the FF/REW and take up tension drive (keeps the tape tight and the take up reel pulling in tape). The idler wheel for the flywheel is on a pivot that often gets gummed up and stuck, so if the flywheel idler isn't moving into position when you put the machine into Play mode that's probably the hang up. Check the speed selector mechanism too, that can also get hung up (in fact all pivot points and slide mechanisms in there should be cleaned and freed up then re- lubed).

TC366 fly wheel suggestion works....but

Yes, the speed control did effect the idler wheel position. Earlier, I had noticed that the speed control knob didn't move the shaft it was pushed on to & in fact looked like the plastic splines had worn away. I tried to loosen up this mechanism and even opened the slot in the shaft to give the control knob more grip but it will still not move without a lot of help. When I repositioned the speed control the fly wheel & take up reel moved as expected.
However, another part that is cause for concern is the brake ass'y tension regulator on the supply reel. I removed the reel to lubricate the shaft before I realised how difficult it was going to be to replace this tensioner.
After I thought I had assembled it correctly it appears to lock the supply reel in place preventing it from moving when play or rewind (which now works) is selected. The tape is at breaking point before I can shut off the mechanism and in fact broke without me knowing why
Is there a tip to reinstalling this tensioner?

I don't recall having a problem with that. If you're just trying to figure out how it assembles I found a picture.

Here's another one.

Thanks Doc. It looks like from your close up photo that it would be easier to reinstall it if I disassembled the supply reel assy. I had difficulty removing the screw on the top of the reel shaft so I decided to install it fully assembled. This made fitting the brake assy awkward, to say the least. as it needs to fit under the reel. I managed to do it but now it prevents the reel from turning. It looks like when the play or FF is selected, the brake assy moves in towards the reel.
I'll try to disassemble the supply reel again and refit it in sections.
Thanks for the pictures

All Philips screwdrivers are not equal. Some bite into the screw better. I think you need a #2 Philips for the reel. The Craftsman drivers are pretty good, but SK makes a really good one with multiple bits that store in the handle.