Congrats... glad my error on the model ID (I thought 1090) worked out as a plus on your end. I'm a big fan of the L1290, in either version.
Can you do me a favor? I'm curious how the baseplate to cabinet fit on those speakers is. I have a couple of pair of L1290/2 and both of them fit in the baseplates I bought separately, but they don't fit very tight - lot of slop in there. Has made me wonder whether I have L1590 baseplates, something home made, or if the factory didn't make then fit snug in the first place.
First things first: Thanks to
sasmith4 for the heads up on these. I am always in the market for tower models to add to my collection. If I decide to part with these for some reason, I will extend you first dibs.
A/D/S/ L1290 Condition update:
Stands
Re: John....1590s would be 4 inches deeper and 2 inches wider than these, so they can't be from that model. I find these F-12 stands to be the very same as you mentioned, sloppy fit, even factory installed as these were (odd that only 3 of 4 screws on each speaker were used. The 4th countersunk hole in the stand on each had never had a screw put in and no hole was ever in the speaker bottom from a removed glide.) The area for the speaker base to fit into is 3/8 from fitting on one side and nearly 1/4 on the other side from the factory, but front to back, they nearly fill the routed hole. If I didn't know better, I would say these are from another vendor entirely and routed/retrofitted. That is my guess. My stands are of a much lesser density fiber board than the cabs are too, so the bottom edges fray easy. The enamel on the base is uber thick too so it comes off in chunks. Lots of work just to get them back up in shape. Once I have them refurbed, I would be glad to give dimensions to all interested, or commission someone to make some, as they do help make a tall speaker more stable and they fill out the look of the bottom of the cab. IMO...
Cabinets:
The cabs are actually clean with the exception of one gouge in the side of one speaker that was never shown in pics. I will work with someone to repair this veneer as it is into the MDF. The cabs have no fading on the bottom half as most you see after 30+ years of sun/fluorescent lighting. They actually look like walnut unlike the oak-like appearance of those faded ones. The veneer connection/amp cover is missing as most are of this age and I most likely will leave it uncovered or go black ABS. The cabs are covered along the sides and fronts with what looks like scratches, but must actually be scuffs from brown painted chair legs rubbing over them. The scuffs come off with a finger nail, no veneer damage.
Grills:
Bent up and cloth torn, but no problem to straighten as they are thick enough to respond to standard metal work. New felt/cloth backing and I haven't thought about the logo, either go stealth or locate some.
Drivers:
All four woofers need new dust caps (large/early version) as someone actually pushed these totally convex against the woofer, but no damage to the cones is apparent. All woofers perform nicely. Mids will need replaced as the sticky has been rubbed completely off of them about 1.5 inches in the middle of the dome (rubbed the dented in grills). Tweeters are unmolested and look and work good.
Crossovers:
I have yet to look into them to see what might need upgraded. If anyone has any ideas/preferences on what works, I will listen carefully. I have upgraded a couple pair of Polk SDAs over the past few years, but have yet to attempt this on my L1230s. Did A/D/S/ use better quality caps on their higher end models to begin with? I don't see as many mods.....
Overall Thoughts:
Once the work is done, they should be a 7/10 speaker, but for the $75 I gave the owner to hold them, I can't complain. I will be comparing them to my L1230s, Polk SDA 1Cs, and LSi 15s for mains powered by my Odyssey Stratos through by Audio Mirror PP1 tube preamp, Ariston RD40 TT or Marantz 8260 disc player.
Good sounds await....