Peerless (KO10DT) tweeter repair?

dogwan

Dogwan

• Apr 13, 2014

• #1

I've done some preliminary searching to no avail.

Is there a way to repair the solder tab on a Peerless tweeter?

Mine broke off while I was re-installing after working on the cabinets (Jennings Research Contrara Pedestals). I was able to solder the wire to the rivet and the tweeter is working. But, the voices in my head cannot abide.

Plus,

I may scavenge the tweeters for another project since these speakers are nothing special. Even after adding bracing, re-capping, new internal wire, better terminals and adjusting the stuffing. Best thing about them is the veneered cabinet and the tweeters.

Sorry, no pics

 

dc270

Now Off the Reservation

• Apr 13, 2014

• #2

I MAY have an extra free for ya- is it an 8 or 4 ohm?
DC

 

dogwan

Dogwan

• Apr 14, 2014

• #3

dc270 said:

I MAY have an extra free for ya- is it an 8 or 4 ohm?
DC

Click to expand...

That's very generous! It's an 8Ω version.

Mine still works. I just want to figure out if I can replace the solder tab. Seems a shame to toss without trying to save it. If I don't figure it out I may take you up on that offer.

-Chris

 

dc270

Now Off the Reservation

• Apr 14, 2014

• #4

If you still have he terminal tab just epoxy it back into place. I checked my KO10DT is a 4 ohm model-sorry......
DC

 

dogwan

Dogwan

• Apr 16, 2014

• #5

Probably won't be able to take a photo until this weekend. Have to pull the driver from the cabinet.

 

dc270

Now Off the Reservation

• Apr 17, 2014

• #6

You could use my 4 ohm with a 4 ohm resistor....
DC

 

dogwan

Dogwan

• Apr 24, 2014

• #7

Pics

Finally had a break in the HW schedule to pull the tweeter and take pics of the broken tab.

The Positive terminal is intact in the pics. The Negative is the one that broke and I just soldered the wire to the rivet.

Tonight while I was looking at it I surmise the lead to the coil runs in the trough on the front and has some kind of rubbery silcony stuff in it. It also looks like there is some kind of plastic insulator where the rivet passes through the plate.

Essentially I don't know what I would uncover if I scraped away the rubber and drilled out the rivet. Would there be enough of a lead to solder the coil wire to a new rivet? How did they make the connection?

 

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elnaldo

Lunatic Member

• Apr 24, 2014

• #8

+1, measure continuity with a multimeter,

I'd do it before soldering the black wire, just measure continuity of the Voice Coil wire, before soldering it. It has some insulation that must be scrapped with the soldering iron so the solder adheres to it. Then, measure continuity from the solder end, to the other (+) terminal. If it works, you can solder to the tab and to the wire.

 

dogwan

Dogwan

• Apr 24, 2014

• #9

I don't think y'all understand. The driver is working fine. The negative wire is soldered to the rivet because the tab broke off while I was re-installing after re-building the speakers. The wire is new. The driver is playing fine.

I just want to replace the solder tab.

After looking at it closer I realize I just need to figure out how to remove the old rivet and re-attach the lead wire from the coil. Wish I knew how that lead wire was attached under the black goo and how much slack there will be.
I already know it's going to be magnet wire. My soldering iron will burn that off the lacquer easily. Pretty sure I can save the plastic insulator.

 

elnaldo

Lunatic Member

• Apr 24, 2014

• #10

If the tweeter looks like your 3rd pict, from the outside, and it's playing fine, I'd leave it alone ...

 

dogwan

Dogwan

• Apr 24, 2014

• #11

Yeah, I probably should. But, I haven't been able to get the speakers to sound good.

They came missing one of the woofers. Modeled and located some other modern drivers and have been playing around since. Thinking of parting out and keeping the Peerless for future project or replacements on some Polks. Probably hard to sell as is and by parting I could re-coup initial investment and have some good parts.

They were a fun project and the cabs are super cool. Just can't justify replacing my ADS L-570's in the living room. And they'll never compete with my Acoustats in the main rig.

 

elnaldo

Lunatic Member

• Apr 24, 2014

• #12

When you say "keep the tweeters for future project ", I see you have an actual project... I'd design a 2 ways crossover starting with what you have now... Perhaps is just to tweak the crossover point to match your replacement woofer, and adapt the cabinets to optimize the woofer requirements (I mean add a port If needed, or play with the filling.)

But you need to take measurements to do this.