It's cold out - Time to restore my CR-1000

I know the thread title refers to the CR-2020 but I was brain dead when I typed it - this is about my CR-1000!

I picked up a CR-1000 a few months back to keep my CR-2020 company in the collection.
While everything works I thought it sounded kind of dull and the sliders were noisy - so I was waiting for crappy weather to start the restoration.
Last week I restored my Onkyo TX-4500 mkII so I had no more excuses.

Today I finally open it up and was surprised to find it to be extraordinarily clean inside with only a slight amount of corrosion over by the transformer.

So far I've pulled the knobs/face for cleaning, recapped the 2 power amplifier PCBs and have started on the tuner section.

As a general rule I will replace all of the electrolytics (excepting the 2 large power supply caps which look to be OK), replace the tantalums with electrolytics (except for the 1uf ones which will get replaced with film caps) and replace the 1uf and less electrolytics with the poly films.

Bulbs will get replaced with green LEDs. I may also replace the trimmer pots on the amp PCB with some multiturn parts.

Crowded in there? Just a little; at least the upper deck is easy to access!

Todays pictures:

It's cold, all righty. Dang cold.

Freakin' chillin!

Finished the tuner PCB.
Mostly Nichicon FGs and Muses along with the many poly film caps. Now there's more room for the music to breath with these modern teenie caps...

It's that time of the year when amplifiers run in Class A as default, if for nothing else than heat output.

Good luck and i'm standing by for updates!

Now if you remove the four red screws, two on either side of that tuner sheet and remove the four red screws on either side at the front. Then remove the dial knob as you already have, you will be able to tip the front panel forward and lift the plate with the tuning head and tuner sheet up. That way you get to see the power supply.

So, that's how we get into the batcave.
Hmm, I'm thinking you've done this before!

I know the tuner says "Tuner Sheet" right on it but I've never heard that nomenclature before.
I guess that's the "Power Supply Sheet" over there to the right.

This looks to be much easier then I anticipated.
I know there's a service bulletin for the CR-2020. Does that apply to the CR-1000 as well?

Power supply PCB all recapped; it's good to keep a stock of parts on hand!
There are virtually no signs of heat damage here so I'm thinking this lead a lazy life. Good for the components that are prone to heat damage but not so good for the caps that probably spent decades discharged and the lubricant on the sliders that had time to turn into cake.
Also did the microphone preamp PCB, not that I'll ever use that circuit.

I have a CR1000 and some of the switches are acting up, dropping channels and such. From my past experience with knobs, a good deoxit bath always does the trick.
Any tips for the switches?
Thanks

grillebilly said:

Any tips for the switches?

Click to expand...

The CR-1000 exemplifies why I like older gear so much. Compared to the CR-2020 this is so much easier to work on.

When you fold open the chassis (as shown) all of the front panel toggle switches are exposed. It's very easy to spray the deoxit in there.

I have completed recapping the PCBS that are attached to the front panel. Most of them unplug for easy service.
There are some wires that are soldered on to the backs of the PCBs and will break off easily. I found my pictures invaluable in figurling out where they went.

This unit is also overflowing with tantalum capacitors. There has to be 30 of them! I've replaced them all but some where color coded and I used a capacitance meter to verify their values.

I'm pretty much done with the internal work. Now I'm going to put it aside to listen to some tunes and come back to it tomorrow for reassembly when my mind is cleared and I can double check my work.

No service bulletins for the 1000 that I am aware of, as for the switches, exercise them even when you are not using it. My advisor at Yamaha asked why I was bothring to restore them as the switches were always a problem.

merrylander said:

My advisor at Yamaha asked why I was bothring to restore them as the switches were always a problem.

Click to expand...

Because they look so uniquely cool!

merrylander said:

No service bulletins for the 1000 that I am aware of, as for the switches, exercise them even when you are not using it. My advisor at Yamaha asked why I was bothring to restore them as the switches were always a problem.

Click to expand...

thanks for the heads up, Rob

w1jim said:

Because they look so uniquely cool!

Click to expand...

:yes: and sound so sweet as well!

Pretty much all back together!

I put 3 green wide angle LEDs in series with a 39 ohm resistor for the meter lights.
I used another green wide angle LED with a 470 ohm resistor for the pointer, looking nice!

Got the faceplate, switch / slider caps and the knobs all cleaned up nice.

Next step is to adjust the amplifier, give it the listening test and then slide it back into the wood case.

Finished

All finished and back together.
It struck me how the designers of the Pioneer SX-D7000 must have had the CR-1000 on their minds.

does anyone know where a schematic can be found i need a burnt resistor value.

Try this:
http://www.hifi-manuals.com/Download/Yamaha/CR-1000-service-manual