ON HIATUS. I AM STILL IN HOSPITAL SINCE 9-9-23 IT'S 3-21-2024
I AM VIRTUALLY INCOMMUNICADO
I don't want to spread false hopes:
All is not well, i may never even get out, no less home- I'm being forced to sell my house..
modern medical nursing care is gonna suck me dry. leave me dependent upon illinois "programs"
i,m starting to envy the mode of merlynski's demise.
i'm not 'bouncing back' like i did the last time in 2012, typing this much is difficult, explanations in depth are hard to do
and there are other things going on behind the scenes that consume daily budget of effort.
ON HIATUS. I AM IN HOSPITAL SINCE 9-9-23 IT'S 3-21-2024
I AM VIRTUALLY INCOMMUNICADO
The ctf-8282, ct-f9191 and ct-f1000 cassette decks are built like tanks, with one exception:
The FF / REW idler clutch. It's failure kills the deck's ability to Fast Forward and Rewind tapes.
The idler clutch is allowed to move in two directions (top/bottom of deck, left/right), and depending upon whether the driving tire is turning clockwise or counter clockwise, the idler comes to rest, wedging between the motor drive tire and either the cassette tape supply reel drive or the takeup reel drive and causes that reel to turn - thus Fast Forwarding or Rewinding.
This first (exploded assembly) drawing is of the arm and idler clutch assembly from the ct-f9191 service manual.
But this thing is more than just an idler, it has a clutch (idler "B", RNK-187) built in, to presumably reduce rubber wear when the cassette refuses to move, so instead of tearing up the rubber, the nylon to felt clutch joint slips. This clutch pack(idler "B", RNK-187) is the upper white wheel with the vertical grooves for friction. The motor's tire (looks a bit like a pencil eraser) turns on these vertical grooves. The lower idler with black tire (idler "A", RNK-188) is what hits the supply and takeup reel drives for the cassette.
This is a view of the partially disassembled arm, with the clutch pack (idler "B", RNK-187) on the left. Note the rather strong spring standing better than 1/2 inch tall. On top of that is the spring holder. In the center is the idler (idler "A", RNK-188) that contains (or is supposed to contain) the force of that spring. You can see the black tire on the bottom, and the felt friction/slip material on the flat surface that the post sticks up from. On top of the post is a button that presses on quite tightly, with a friction fit to the post. this friction fit is strong enough to contain (when new) the force of the idler B spring.
With the force contained, the idler a/ idler b assembly is floated OVER the supporting arm by the spring cup and spring shown on the right side, shown ON the shaft that the idler a/b assembly turns on.
That's how it's supposed to work. Time had a surprise for us.
I AM VIRTUALLY INCOMMUNICADO
I don't want to spread false hopes:
All is not well, i may never even get out, no less home- I'm being forced to sell my house..
modern medical nursing care is gonna suck me dry. leave me dependent upon illinois "programs"
i,m starting to envy the mode of merlynski's demise.
i'm not 'bouncing back' like i did the last time in 2012, typing this much is difficult, explanations in depth are hard to do
and there are other things going on behind the scenes that consume daily budget of effort.
August 2023!!!, STILL fixing them, to contact me about the Clutches, PLEASE PRIVATELY MESSAGE me on AudioKarma's (Private) " Start a Conversation" message system, please do not post that question at the end of this thread. That would constitute commercial activity and get this thread disappeared. As it is, this notice comes perilously close.
To start a Private Conversation, click on my name under the avatar, then in the pop up box there is a "Start a Conversation" in blue, click on it.
I have learned quite a bit in how to recover clutches that have been mistreated by ad-hoc repair attempts, as well as which clearances to watch like a hawk, as well as a few more to adjust - depending upon how things measure up....
Also even though I am "on hiatus", I have NOT left clutch owners in the lurch, I am STILL fixing clutches (and STV-2,3,4H diodes) even while I am on hiatus (posted Oct 2016).
ON HIATUS. I AM IN HOSPITAL SINCE 9-9-23 IT'S 3-21-2024
I AM VIRTUALLY INCOMMUNICADO
The ctf-8282, ct-f9191 and ct-f1000 cassette decks are built like tanks, with one exception:
The FF / REW idler clutch. It's failure kills the deck's ability to Fast Forward and Rewind tapes.
The idler clutch is allowed to move in two directions (top/bottom of deck, left/right), and depending upon whether the driving tire is turning clockwise or counter clockwise, the idler comes to rest, wedging between the motor drive tire and either the cassette tape supply reel drive or the takeup reel drive and causes that reel to turn - thus Fast Forwarding or Rewinding.
This first (exploded assembly) drawing is of the arm and idler clutch assembly from the ct-f9191 service manual.
But this thing is more than just an idler, it has a clutch (idler "B", RNK-187) built in, to presumably reduce rubber wear when the cassette refuses to move, so instead of tearing up the rubber, the nylon to felt clutch joint slips. This clutch pack(idler "B", RNK-187) is the upper white wheel with the vertical grooves for friction. The motor's tire (looks a bit like a pencil eraser) turns on these vertical grooves. The lower idler with black tire (idler "A", RNK-188) is what hits the supply and takeup reel drives for the cassette.
This is a view of the partially disassembled arm, with the clutch pack (idler "B", RNK-187) on the left. Note the rather strong spring standing better than 1/2 inch tall. On top of that is the spring holder. In the center is the idler (idler "A", RNK-188) that contains (or is supposed to contain) the force of that spring. You can see the black tire on the bottom, and the felt friction/slip material on the flat surface that the post sticks up from. On top of the post is a button that presses on quite tightly, with a friction fit to the post. this friction fit is strong enough to contain (when new) the force of the idler B spring.
With the force contained, the idler a/ idler b assembly is floated OVER the supporting arm by the spring cup and spring shown on the right side, shown ON the shaft that the idler a/b assembly turns on.
That's how it's supposed to work. Time had a surprise for us.
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