Pioneer HPM 200 Speakers

KutzlerTrans

KutzlerTrans

Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney.
Hey Folks, I am picking up a set of HPM 200's this weekend and after refoaming the woofers, will be connecting them to a 2330

Does anyone have a set of them and what is your opinions.

I will post pictures when i get them. I have read a lot of good stuff about them and fell into a Craigslist deal.

The seller was so bombed with replies that he pulled the listing. He called me the next day because, as it turns out, Was a high school buddy that grew up a block away from me in Waukegan, Ill. :thmbsp:

I'm excited to hear them and thankful my friend would pick me out of 20 callers. My handshake agreement is to offer them back to him FIRST, If i ever do sell them. From what i'm reading, Im thinking they will go to the grave with me. :D

I plan on using a marantz 2330 or 2325 or sx1250 to power them. I hear they require a LOT of power to run them. I will be paralleling these with hpm 100's or cerwin vega d3's

Any thoughts on these things. All the treads are old ones concerning the 200's , must be rare enough
.
 

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Great speakers, better than many of the TOTL favs, imo.
Your receiver will power them but you should step up to seperates with high current juice because they suck it up especially spinning vinyl. I'd love to run the 500 watt per Yamaha PC5002m on these speakers.
You will not want to "parallel them" with anything, sound or powerwise.
Position them off the back and sidewalls, three feet minimum and you will be stoked.
 
My HPM200s didn't seem to be THAT greedy for power. Yes, they can do with a solid 100w/ch, but unless you want REAL LOUD sound, you don't need much more than that, IMHO.

I ran mine for a while, off of a NAD C340, and they sounded quite good. Yes, something like a C370 would have been better, but the C340 acquitted itself quite well on those speakers.

One thing- just be SURE and NOT send them distortion. Those ribbon tweeters are getting fragile now. If you burn out the connections between the ribbons and the terminal strips they attach to, there's NO fixing them. I've had a couple of unhappy experiences trying to fix them after this has happened, for several people. It didn't turn out well, in any of the recent cases.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Just finished restoring a set...search the speaker forum for my thread. Treat them right and they'll treat you right.
 
Thanks guys. I just got them home from a 140 miles away. I will need to do some cabinet carpentry work. The back bottom has a moisture line about an inch or two that is soft and crumbly. The grills could use new material and i have a few veneer repairs to do.

The crossovers look great but they need new capacitors. The mid range covers are missing.

Tomorrow i'm going to get them out of the truck and get the woofers out of them and re-foam them.

Thanks Gordon, for the tweeter tip. I am thinking you mean the ribbon burns out on the edges. I tried to fix a beryllium pioneer r14a unit that i smoked and i could not get it right. I wish i had a bad one of these 200 units to take apart , just to see how it is built.

I have a couple 100 Watt Bogen MO-100 amps that were designed with PP 6550/KT88 tubes . This might give me a good reason to spend the bucks on better output transformers for them.

I will try to get pictures of this restoration project when the time is right.

nrenter, I'm going to enjoy reading your restoration threads. Thanks for everybody's help, John
 
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I read,"Tubed" that you mentioned the capacitors as being Film caps.

Are they the Mexico Yellow ones?? 10uf 100v

There is a black plastic looking 10uf vnp but that is polarized

There is on tin can cap that is 105uf 100v non polarized.
Upon further review, the grill cloth is better than i thought.
I would like to put the material that the warfendale w90 units had on them
 

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KutzlerTrans said:
I read,"Tubed" that you mentioned the capacitors as being Film caps.

Are they the Mexico Yellow ones?? 10uf 100v

There is a black plastic looking 10uf vnp but that is polarized

There is on tin can cap that is 105uf 100v non polarized.
Upon further review, the grill cloth is better than i thought.
I would like to put the material that the warfendale w90 units had on them
Click to expand...

The yellow caps are mylar pastic, a type of film I suppose. They should still be good even after all these years. Mine sound fine.
The non yellow electrolytic "VNP" caps are electrolytic and are used as shunts to steeply roll off unwanted higher frequencies. VNP means volts non-polarized.
I'd keep the grills original and fabricate new ones, ditto for the crossover network.
First thing you should take some detailed close up of the crossover network before you start removing wires.
Enjoy!
 
Well thats nice, as i was listening to it, the bigger ribbon tweeter crapped out. it worked for a good 20 minutes and the volume was low when it shut down. I think i'm in for some fun here. Its not the switches or connectors.
 
Fret not. Read my speaker thread. I had one of my super tweeters "go out". Once you crack into it, it's not as complicated as it may appear.
 
^^^^^^
The hardest part is getting the wire mesh back in place and not accidentally twisting the mylar.
 
Well i'm unsure whats up here. it appears i have continuity , and after gently wipeing the contact points on the edge of the ribbon, it did work but was real temperamental about tightening the ribbon clamp, but it again went out, but this time it seams out for good.

as it is now, the mesh is set aside. the ribbon looks perfect. It did appear that the connection at the red wire/ribbon mount was shaky , but i tweaked it and it got better as far as the ohm m eter is concerned, but without drilling through the bottom, i cannot see how its attached.
I would be lucky if thats all thats wrong.

Something tells me its the ribbon itself. Is it possible to have an internal ribbon issue? it looks like new

here are some pictures. When i'm done, i'll read R's tweeter fix. Thanks, John
 

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Lightly sand/scrape the length of the contact area and sandwich a strip of thin copper or aluminum foil between the clamps.
Careful with that mylar:)
Remount the mesh at a later date.
 
Here you go , Chris, Here is the Crossover picks of the tweeter connections to the output transformers. The red is on Red and Yellow is on Yellow.
 

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I cleaned it real lightly with red scotchbrite earlier. Tomorrow i'll try the copper shims.:yes:

Thanks for the help. JK
 
I'm not sure how you are getting a meter reading as these tweeter don't produce an ohm reading. Perhaps you are referring to the contact points and wire connectors.
I'm pretty sure the problem is simply good connectivity.
I don't believe simple transformers like these used on the HPM-200 "go bad".
 
I know they switched the phase on the later version of the hpm 100 tweeter and super tweeter and rated them as 200watts
other than that, they were the same speaker. I wish i knew that before i smoked the mids and tweeters out of mine.
 
Yes, what your seeing is the ohm meter on the red/white wires as i jumped the side/side contact points, making a loop.
The other speaker Ribbons work fine on this crossover. Its whatever is going on between them contact points, is were the trouble is.

I'm unsure of what the mylar is. I think of it as being a clearcoating over the ribbon. ??
 
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KutzlerTrans said:
Yes, what your seeing is the ohm meter on the red/white wires as i jumped the side/side contact points, making a loop.
Click to expand...

I think the clamped area is not making good contact.
My tweeter had some strange corrosion in between the clamps so I scraped a bit and added a strip of foil and VIOLA!
 
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