Another Super High End Phono Stage! No expense spared...

Greetings. I read in one of the threads that the HTMCPS is recommended for HOMC - as compared to the HQMC phono section. Is the HTMCPS preferrable to the CNC? I have both the HQMC and CNC and love them both, but wonder if I should have the HTMCPS also.
 
Greetings. I read in one of the threads that the HTMCPS is recommended for HOMC - as compared to the HQMC phono section. Is the HTMCPS preferrable to the CNC? I have both the HQMC and CNC and love them both, but wonder if I should have the HTMCPS also.

All of the above are very good phonostages.HTMCPS is good for HOMC whereas HQMC is optimised for LOMC.

Regards,
Sachin
 
Sorry for the dumb question, but what is the purpose of the B1 buffer between the CNC phono section and the preamp? Thanks for humoring my lack of knowledge.

Pass B1 is used for impedance matching. I am using it since 2 years.It is one of the best,transparent and very clear.I am using it between CNC and DIY Power amp. I have recently built DCB1 on Omishra's designed PCB, and Its one step ahead than B1,smaller,cheaper and easy to build. You can see my build here http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=613244

Regards
Sachin
 
Pass B1 is used for impedance matching. I am using it since 2 years.It is one of the best,transparent and very clear.I am using it between CNC and DIY Power amp. I have recently built DCB1 on Omishra's designed PCB, and Its one step ahead than B1,smaller,cheaper and easy to build. You can see my build here http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=613244

Regards
Sachin

Thanks Sachin, that's helpful information. I am using a Mcintosh receiver (MAC4200) so do I need the buffer?
 
Transformer wiring

Until now I've been using my CNC and SSP with batteries but I would like to try them with OPS. I ordered R-core transformer and now I need help with wiring it for 230V.
Do I connect the RED wire to N, BROWN wire to L and YELLOW and BLUE wires are connected together. YELLOW/GREEN is ground. The markings on the label are confusing...


292ph94.jpg
 
Can you please take pic of wires away from trafo and little separate? Now I can see primary wires in pic.

I can read from label-
red-yellow are 0-115V primary one
Blue- brown are 0-115V primary two.
Yellow/green is screen

Please verify all 5 wires from above. If found true then proceed below.

Then join and seal (yellow + blue) together. Tape it securely and safely.
Supply 'L' to red, 'N' to brown.
'E' earth ground to yellow/green and chassis of metal near to transformer body.

Use grey black gray towards ops PCB.
Secure and tape other wires from shorting elsewhere. Remaining wires need not be used.

Use 10ohm 2W resistor paralleled with 0.1uF,250V joined between solder pad where black wire connected to PCB and chassis earth grounded point.
Regards

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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Yes, my description above holds true. Your initial understanding is also correct.

CAUTION: Please pay attention to two wires - yellow and yellow with green strip. Both are separate wires with different usage. Messing here would be hazardous.


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Last edited:
Can you please take pic of wires away from trafo and little separate? Now I can see primary wires in pic.

I can read from label-
red-yellow are 0-115V primary one
Blue- brown are 0-115V primary two.
Yellow/green is screen

Please verify all 5 wires from above. If found true then proceed below.

Then join and seal (yellow + blue) together. Tape it securely and safely.
Supply 'L' to red, 'N' to brown.
'E' earth ground to yellow/green and chassis of metal near to transformer body.

Use grey black gray towards ops PCB.
Secure and tape other wires from shorting elsewhere. Remaining wires need not be used.

Use 10ohm 2W resistor paralleled with 0.1uF,250V joined between solder pad where black wire connected to PCB and chassis earth grounded point.
Regards

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks. I will do so.
 
Few days back I got two capacitors 1 uF / 250 Volts MPGP.
"P" stands for precise.
MPGP are supposed to be very nice and rare. These caps are PIO Polystrine with .1% tolerance.The problem is their size. I tried it today with some adjustments. I liked it as soon as stylus hit the record,highs are cleaner than before without compromising the bass.





Going by their size, I guess fully break in will take min 200 hrs:scratch2: :D

Regards
Sachin
 
"Going by their size, I guess fully break in will take min 200 hrs"

Maybe not 200 hrs - but break in will take some time. I'd guess 50-75hrs. Run some pink noise or a CD on repeat thru them with the speakers turned off. I like Russian PIO caps but yah the size wow. You could build another enclosure and add an umbilical chord to hook up. Those are the good ones and hard to find NOS like that. Good find... Sometimes they sound pretty good then they sound like complete crap before coming back. Best to not even listen to them for a good while so you wont feel like throwing them out before they break in.


Cheers,
Bob
 
Sachin-

Use two lantern batteries for power, then you could also use the batteries as standoffs for the PIO caps. Dual use!
 
Thanks Bob,
I took your advice.I am playing them with CD player without connecting speakers since morning.
@ Joel :D

Regards
Sahin
 
Oops.

They should be spot on the value. Polystyrene is either loved or hated. I don't know why.

I have used some as bypass caps. But have no personal experience with them as the only cap in a circuit.

But... I had a good friend in the 70s who loved them in tubed circuits.
 
Hi Grainger
They are Polystyrene. Are they any good? Tolerance is .1%

Regards
Sachin

Sansui used Polystyrene caps in many many of their amps specially TOL amps. I leave them in place as is, I feel they are superior to most film caps. The Russian ones you have are military spec - probably some of the best out there.

Cheers,
Bob
 
Saptermari,
Nope,
Sorry your too late. Offer has expired. (JK)

PM Sachin for details, he's a good man to know. ;)
Ron
 
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