Mach One (40-4029) speakers have been in use for over 30 years and of the ones taken apart (mostly per the VL Mach One thread) none have mentioned anything "wrong" with the fluid. As stated it's mostly to dissipate heat faster. When you consider how many people brag about hard partying with their Mach One's obviously it must be working.how long is the average life span on these? how can you tell if they are bad or dried up? thanks...
Perhaps a dumb question but what keeps it in place, you'd think it would all collect on one side and run down into the spider.
Revisiting. After taking apart a Mach One midrange (myself) I've found a couple interesting things. One the fluid in mine (non working unit) is almost black in color and thick like molasses. I've seen some images of ferrofluid and it didn't look black and I don't recall it being described as being as thick as molasses.how long is the average life span on these? how can you tell if they are bad or dried up? thanks...
I think people are missing the point. Is it at all possible that ferrofluid can deteriorate and may actually be impairing performance. I worked in the automotive industry for years and it never stopped amazing me how many people don't "hear" a problem with their vehicle simply because the problem was slight and gradual.The Dynaudio D-28H [Sen Lab] tweeters in one set of speakers from 1980 still work with ferrofluid..
I recall checking out your post. VC on yours looks burnt, judging by the images anyway. There are a few sellers on eBay with the stuff. It's not cheap, but not terribly expensive either. Quantity certainly is a question since VC diameter is only one factor. There's depth and how much vacant space inside the "chamber" since it's not just a gap you'll be filling. I'm thinking, out loud of course, that since it's magnetic in nature and it doesn't pour out of the gap, the only issue would be overfilling? I guess you could fill the "chamber" (rubbing alcohol?) till full, then pour that into some kind of measuring cup, preferably small with many graduations. Any amount less than that should be effective enough.Hi
I have a flat tweeter from an SB-M5
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=413317&highlight=Ferrofluid
That I am thinking of trying to repair. I can tell you that the Ferrofluid that was in the gap was thicker than molasses and actually pulled a couple of winds of wire off of the coil when I removed it. I remived as much as possible while using only a Q-tip lightly dampened with mild soapy water.If I can find the break in the coil I may try to repair it but the big question is will the Ferrofluid short out the repair to the gap walls rendering it useless? Do I seal the solder joint and how?? This tweeter is unavailable and rare and I would love to do the repair and have working again. Can anyone direct me to any info on working with Ferrofluid or offer any advice? I could then be able to tell you how the repaired tweeter with new FF compares to the other original one.
I recall checking out your post. VC on yours looks burnt, judging by the images anyway. There are a few sellers on eBay with the stuff. It's not cheap, but not terribly expensive either.