Yamaha a1000 1985

Thanks to all for the feedback. Seems this amp has a small, but dedicated following. Thanks, especially, for the heads up on the heat issue. I was just running it on the dining room table last night, with the air conditioning on and only playing at moderate listening levels. So, I didn't notice any excess heat. I have plenty of PC fans and wall warts, and probably even a fan controller in the parts drawer. So, I should be set there.

I thinks the Klipsch (94dB at 1m/1W) should be a good match for his amp. They are the most efficient speakers I won and are also from 1985. So, they are period correct (not that it matters, but most of my gear is from 1978 - 1985). I'll give them a go tonight.

I don't have a turntable with a MC cartridge to test, but I'll give it a try with my MM cartridge/table tonight.

Just to be clear, all the buttons/switches are present and working properly, I am just missing the glue on covers for two buttons - the power button and one of the input selector buttons. I thought I was missing two, but I found one rattling around inside the chassis! Here's a photo (not my amp, I wish mine looked that nice) that shows what I'm missing:

Yamaha_A-1000_Silver_zpsz9omuclv.jpg


At least the two I'm missing are fairly generic (Power and blank). So, hopefully I can find suitable replacements.
 
Thanks to all for the feedback. Seems this amp has a small, but dedicated following. Thanks, especially, for the heads up on the heat issue. I was just running it on the dining room table last night, with the air conditioning on and only playing at moderate listening levels. So, I didn't notice any excess heat. I have plenty of PC fans and wall warts, and probably even a fan controller in the parts drawer. So, I should be set there.

I thinks the Klipsch (94dB at 1m/1W) should be a good match for his amp. They are the most efficient speakers I won and are also from 1985. So, they are period correct (not that it matters, but most of my gear is from 1978 - 1985). I'll give them a go tonight.

I don't have a turntable with a MC cartridge to test, but I'll give it a try with my MM cartridge/table tonight.

Just to be clear, all the buttons/switches are present and working properly, I am just missing the glue on covers for two buttons - the power button and one of the input selector buttons. I thought I was missing two, but I found one rattling around inside the chassis! Here's a photo (not my amp, I wish mine looked that nice) that shows what I'm missing:

Yamaha_A-1000_Silver_zpsz9omuclv.jpg


At least the two I'm missing are fairly generic (Power and blank). So, hopefully I can find suitable replacements.



What model Klipsch do you have? This amp has a warn tube like tone to it. It mates GREAT with Klipsch. Back in the day Klipsch Dealers had the black Yamaha Natural Sound Amps etc next to the tubes as usually after you went broke on the Heritage Speakers you could not afford the McIntosh equipment and Yamaha was hooked up to test them both with. I could hardly hear much difference after 80dB or so. My Cornwalls on Class A at 75db had more bass then then AB mode at this low level, after 80dB A or AB sounded the same.....really close to tubes for SS. if the MM phono stage is OK you are in for a treat as it has the same quiet tone for vinyl like the Yamaha C2 etc series pre/amps with the same adjustable MM/MC phono stages.
 
Thanks to all for the feedback. Seems this amp has a small, but dedicated following. Thanks, especially, for the heads up on the heat issue. I was just running it on the dining room table last night, with the air conditioning on and only playing at moderate listening levels. So, I didn't notice any excess heat. I have plenty of PC fans and wall warts, and probably even a fan controller in the parts drawer. So, I should be set there.

Just to be clear, all the buttons/switches are present and working properly, I am just missing the glue on covers for two buttons - the power button and one of the input selector buttons. I thought I was missing two, but I found one rattling around inside the chassis! Here's a photo (not my amp, I wish mine looked that nice) that shows what I'm missing:

At least the two I'm missing are fairly generic (Power and blank). So, hopefully I can find suitable replacements.

The missing buttons look to be generic to "A" and "AX" series. I have an AX-700 on my table right now and will measure the size of it's buttons. You might then be able to find a doner amp.

Cheers,
James
 
What model Klipsch do you have? This amp has a warn tube like tone to it. It mates GREAT with Klipsch. Back in the day Klipsch Dealers had the black Yamaha Natural Sound Amps etc next to the tubes as usually after you went broke on the Heritage Speakers you could not afford the McIntosh equipment and Yamaha was hooked up to test them both with. I could hardly hear much difference after 80dB or so. My Cornwalls on Class A at 75db had more bass then then AB mode at this low level, after 80dB A or AB sounded the same.....really close to tubes for SS. if the MM phono stage is OK you are in for a treat as it has the same quiet tone for vinyl like the Yamaha C2 etc series pre/amps with the same adjustable MM/MC phono stages.

I have a pair of KG4s that were also a Goodwill Buy ($24.99 for the pair). The veneer needs refinished, but they sound excellent.
 
The missing buttons look to be generic to "A" and "AX" series. I have an AX-700 on my table right now and will measure the size of it's buttons. You might then be able to find a doner amp.

Cheers,
James

Thanks for the info. The missing power button cover looks to be about 24.25mm x 14.5mm and the missing selector button cover is 28mm x 14mm - the front is sloped and varies in thickness from 3.5mm to 6.5mm.

It seems like all these A and AX series models are far less common in silver than black. So, it may take a while to find the replacement parts. Oh well, at least I can still enjoy listening to the amp while I search for the parts.
 
I have a pair of KG4s that were also a Goodwill Buy ($24.99 for the pair). The veneer needs refinished, but they sound excellent.

Great deal on a decent two way Klipsch.........call Bob Crites about the "caps" in the networks he sells a kit (easy to install) or new networks too and IIRC he has Ti diaphragms for the tweeter drivers. Post a pic in the Klipsch section here and several will show you how to repair the cabinets finish. http://www.critesspeakers.com/crossovers.html I have his new networks and CT-125 tweeters in my Cornwalls :music: and it's about time to re-cap my 1989 Heresy II. Go easy with the volume if those 1992 or older capacitors lose their values you will fry a tweeter diaphragm. Ask me how I know LOL Enjoy the Yamaha and Klipsch those two will surprise a lot of people, add a small powered sub and you set. Hope this helps. Enjoy the music :music:
 
Thanks for the info. The missing power button cover looks to be about 24.25mm x 14.5mm and the missing selector button cover is 28mm x 14mm - the front is sloped and varies in thickness from 3.5mm to 6.5mm.

It seems like all these A and AX series models are far less common in silver than black. So, it may take a while to find the replacement parts. Oh well, at least I can still enjoy listening to the amp while I search for the parts.

OK, my A-520 has power and CD/Phono select buttons that are the same size as you state. The other select buttons (tuner aux tape) are only about 23mm wide. So it looks at least like the A-x(0)20 series will work as donors.

I just checked the AX-700 and while the select buttons appear to be the same size the power button has the same width but is only about 13mm high. However, the flanges that hold the button in place are 19mm high, so mabye one would still work better than nothing even if it was a bit loose in the cutout. With the AX-x30 series and beyond the face is considerably changed, I don't know if anything from those series will help you.

Silver face units come up fairly often over here. I've bookmarked this thread and if a donor comes into my hands I'll PM you.

Cheers,
James
 
Great deal on a decent two way Klipsch.........call Bob Crites about the "caps" in the networks he sells a kit (easy to install) or new networks too and IIRC he has Ti diaphragms for the tweeter drivers. Post a pic in the Klipsch section here and several will show you how to repair the cabinets finish. http://www.critesspeakers.com/crossovers.html I have his new networks and CT-125 tweeters in my Cornwalls :music: and it's about time to re-cap my 1989 Heresy II. Go easy with the volume if those 1992 or older capacitors lose their values you will fry a tweeter diaphragm. Ask me how I know LOL Enjoy the Yamaha and Klipsch those two will surprise a lot of people, add a small powered sub and you set. Hope this helps. Enjoy the music :music:

I own Yamaha, lots of Yamaha, and some Mac gear too.

Side by side, the Yamaha might sound better when I have tested it. I did do a lot of testing at the show room when I purchased my LaScalas 1980 and Heresy speakers, and Yamaha rocked then and now.

In fact, I picked up a very good condition M-85 on Sunday that I can't wait to blow out and clean up and give it a test on my bench, the seller stated that is works no problems. Lets hope. For $200, I think I did OK.

When I get back to working on my units, the -85 might move to the front of the line.
 
I own Yamaha, lots of Yamaha, and some Mac gear too.

Side by side, the Yamaha might sound better when I have tested it. I did do a lot of testing at the show room when I purchased my LaScalas 1980 and Heresy speakers, and Yamaha rocked then and now.

In fact, I picked up a very good condition M-85 on Sunday that I can't wait to blow out and clean up and give it a test on my bench, the seller stated that is works no problems. Lets hope. For $200, I think I did OK.

When I get back to working on my units, the -85 might move to the front of the line.

:thmbsp: I have a nice collection of Yamaha too that I have collected over the years. In my bedroom a 2004 RX-V2400 7.1 AVR (non HDMI) in the den HT system 2008 RX-V1900 HD 7.1 AVR, matching CD changer CDC 679, two mid 1980's A-1000, T-1000 FM turner, GE-20 matching Eq all still work but phono sections on the A-1000,s have issues now. I need to send them to AKer Avionic for repairs. I had McIntosh tubes for many years and tired of replacing tubes, MX110/ MC225 that my neighbor wanted Big time and made a offer I could not pass on. From what I have read the M-85 was a little better then the M-80. My brother had the M-80/C2 pre/amp that was Great for vinyl tape and CD. And the M80 really jammed his LaScala's clean and loud when needed. You got a deal on a M-85 that works :thmbsp: I have one of the A-1000 and the other Natural Sound gear in the guest bedroom with some cheepo Onkyo speakers for now.
 
My father bought an A-1000, T-1000 and a tape deck that I can't remember the model of new back in '85 and it was pretty much my introduction to my love of Hi-Fi and Yamaha. He had various receivers and things before that but the Yamaha stuff was serious and looked the part. It also sounded amazing.
Right now I've only got 4 Yamaha pieces and love them all.
Of all the audio components I've owned, the Yamaha "house" sound is easily my favorite and I really don't look anywhere else anymore. I'd love to find an A-1000 to add to the collection one day and relive some memories.
 
Great deal on a decent two way Klipsch.........call Bob Crites about the "caps" in the networks he sells a kit (easy to install) or new networks too and IIRC he has Ti diaphragms for the tweeter drivers. Post a pic in the Klipsch section here and several will show you how to repair the cabinets finish. http://www.critesspeakers.com/crossovers.html I have his new networks and CT-125 tweeters in my Cornwalls :music: and it's about time to re-cap my 1989 Heresy II. Go easy with the volume if those 1992 or older capacitors lose their values you will fry a tweeter diaphragm. Ask me how I know LOL Enjoy the Yamaha and Klipsch those two will surprise a lot of people, add a small powered sub and you set. Hope this helps. Enjoy the music :music:

Thanks for the input. I've read about the Crites crossover kits and Ti diaphragms. I'll probably end up recapping the crossovers myself and getting the Ti diaphragms. I've recapped a number of crossovers from speakers of similar vintage. Most of the work will end up going into refinishing the cabinets. They have the dreaded plant rings on top - one of them is pretty bad and may need the top veneer replaced.
 
Boy, you guys weren't kidding about the heat when running this guy in Class A mode. I didn't really notice it the first night, but I didn't really check either. I hooked it up again last night and after about 20 minutes listening at moderate volume levels, it felt the top of the case. Wow, that's some serious heat!

I'm still using the same test set up I mentioned in my first post (The Yamaha A-1000 with the Auto Class A and Direct buttons engaged, my modified Pioneer SP.BS22-LR speakers and a Sony DVP-NS3100ES SACD player with the video bypass engaged). These are not very efficient speakers, and don't have much bass below 55Hz, but with the new Vifa tweeters, crossover mods and better internal dampening materials, they are excellent sounding, very clear and very revealing, as long as you don't try to push them too hard.

I moved the set up to a better location, for a more comfortable listening position, and settled in for about 4 hours of serious listening. I have to say, this combination sounds so good, I haven't even bothered to hook up the turntable and Klipsch speakers, yet. There will be time for that later.

I listened to several of my favorite SACDs and they all sounded great. Steely Dan's Gaucho and Aja both sound great, but the detail revealed by this set up reveals the different choices made made when they were remastered for SACD. Right now, I'm listening to the long out-of-print Death Cab for Cutie Transatlantacism SACD that just arrived on Thursday. Wow, it makes me wish more of their work was available on SACD. Once I get the turntable hooked up, I'll have to give some Death Cab for Cutie vinyl a spin.

And yes, after 4 hours, the top of the case was definitely very hot, but not noticeably hotter than it was after about half an hour. It's running out in the open, in an air conditioned room, and since it's missing two of the feet, I propped it up so it could draw some air in through the bottom vents for better convection cooling. If I do add fans, I'll probably mount them under the case, blowing fresh air up through the bottom vents. Obviously, this is not an amp that belongs in a cramped rack with other components above it. It needs room to breath.

I'm really loving the sound of this amp, the next question is what to do with it? I almost didn't buy it, because I don't really NEED it, but after reading the glowing reviews, how could I resist? I already have four systems running in the house, and I'm satisfied with all four. We also have a small cottage in the woods that has a small, third floor crow's nest that we intend to use as a guest bedroom/study/reading room (just put in the stairs last week). Given the small size of the space, this amp, with an SACD player, and perhaps eventually a Mac Mini with a DSD DAC steaming hires files, combined with the little Pioneer bookshelf speakers would be perfect - except for one thing, that room isn't air conditioned (or heated). Heat could be an issue - maybe run the amp in Class A/B during the summer and Class A during the cooler months.

Oh well, I'm sure I'll find a use for it. Right now, I'm just enjoying listening to my first Class A solid state amplifier. I've always known Yamaha made some great gear back in the late 70s through mid-80s, but this amp has really opened my eyes. I've been searching for quite a while for for a preamp for one of my other systems and I've just added a couple of the vintage Yamaha preamps to my search list.
 
OK, my A-520 has power and CD/Phono select buttons that are the same size as you state. The other select buttons (tuner aux tape) are only about 23mm wide. So it looks at least like the A-x(0)20 series will work as donors.

I just checked the AX-700 and while the select buttons appear to be the same size the power button has the same width but is only about 13mm high. However, the flanges that hold the button in place are 19mm high, so mabye one would still work better than nothing even if it was a bit loose in the cutout. With the AX-x30 series and beyond the face is considerably changed, I don't know if anything from those series will help you.

Silver face units come up fairly often over here. I've bookmarked this thread and if a donor comes into my hands I'll PM you.

Cheers,
James

Thanks for the info and the offer! I just need one of the wider select button covers and the power button cover. I'll keep my eyes open at the local Goodwill stores for potential donors. You never know what you'll find there - heck, that's where I found this A-1000!

Also, there is a scratch on the large volume knob. I cleaned all the crud off the volume knob last night and it looks great, other than the big scratch that runs from the center to the edge. Unless I can find a replacement in better condition, I'll probably repaint this one.

I'd also like to replace the stock speaker binding posts with more user-friendly modern 5-way binding posts. I haven't started ripping things apart yet (still enjoying listening to it too much to shut it down for some servicing), but I popped the top and it looks like the binding posts I have will fit in the space provided. I'll have to fabricate a new panel from Lexan to hold the new binding posts, but that's not a big deal (I've done it before). The hard part looks to be removing the original speaker terminal assembly. That big honking heat sink is in the way. Oh well, maybe I'll remove the heat sink, give it a good cleaning and some fresh thermal grease to replace the dried up 30-year old original grease. Given how hot this thing runs, that's probably a good idea anyway.

Has anyone else replaced the stock speaker terminals on their A-1000? If so, please post some photos of your work.
 
Bumping this thread as, after a thorough cleaning, and many more hours enjoyable listening, I've decided this Yamaha A-1000 is a keeper and am building a silver faced system around it.

So, I still need the missing cover for the power button and one of the 28mm wide covers for the Phono/Tuner input selector buttons. If you have something, send me a PM.
 
Bumping this thread as, after a thorough cleaning, and many more hours enjoyable listening, I've decided this Yamaha A-1000 is a keeper and am building a silver faced system around it.

So, I still need the missing cover for the power button and one of the 28mm wide covers for the Phono/Tuner input selector buttons. If you have something, send me a PM.

Thanks to Barter Town and another forum member, I now have all the button caps necessary to return my A-1000 to her original glory. I haven't glued them on yet as I want to take before and after photos to post in this thread. I'll get them posted over the weekend as I continue to enjoy this classic Yamaha Natural Sound integrated amp.
 
OK, here's the before and after photos of my silver A-1000 with her new "teeth":

Yamaha_A-1000_1_zpsn7janwen.jpg


Yamaha_A-1000_2_zpsnifefb77.jpg


It sounds great and now it looks pretty good, too. Although the silver finish doesn't match anything else in my master bedroom system, I think that's where I'm going to use this, for now. That's my most used system, which normally runs with a NAD 3150. I've always liked the NAD, probably their best vintage integrated amp, but haven't listened to it much since I brought the Yamaha home.
 
That looks great with all of the buttons back!
I've got an email in on a black A-1020 in cl right now. Says powers on but no sound. Looks clean and somehow still has all of its buttons so should make a good project.
 
I went ahead and (over)paid for the A-1020 I found on CL. I have been wanting one for a while for sentimental reasons and they are a pain to find locally in decent shape. This one powered on but wouldn't come out of protection. For $50 that's a little high but it wasn't missing any teeth and is cosmetically a good solid 7.
I get it home and open it up and it's DUSTY. Cleaned it up with compressed air and give it a look. Has some glue greening up a few components but nothing burned. All original inside at least.
I plug it in and power it on. No click. Looking a little closer I notice it's a multi-voltage unit...that's set on 220V. I click it over to 120V plug it in and power it on. BINK, comes out of protection in 5 seconds :banana:
On further looking they had the jumpers in wrong so even if they figured out the voltage issue they still wouldn't have gotten any sound.
I listened to it for about an hour and am very pleased. I remembered this being a nice sounding amplifier and wasn't proven wrong. It sounds really good.
Stay tuned for it's own thread. I'm going to recap it, replace the trimmers and the green resistors that are stuck in the glue once I get a bit of time. Until then it's covered in the closet awaiting it's turn.
 

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