KLH Model 5 Recap

acetate

Active Member
I just acquired a pair of KLH Model 5s. I picked them up because I love my Model 6s and just had to hear their big brother. The cabinets cleaned up pretty well with some olde english. I plan to recap and redope because I want to put these into daily use for the family and don't want to worry about anything. I've read there were many different crossovers used on these so I opened it up and grabbed a photo. I then labeled everything like I do when I work on older amps (that don't have silkscreening). If I don't do this I just get confused at some point.

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My question is on the +3uf / +4uf cap. How do I know which positive lead is which?

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Poorly lit photo from my basement. Will have to watch out for another badge. Still on the fence about new grill cloth.
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The single wire on the dual 3mf and 4mf caps is the common and should be connected to ground. These are excellent speakers with lots of potential.

The date codes on the caps indicate a 1973 manufacture date so these were later production models. Nice job on the cabinets, too.

Just make sure that all of the seals in intact when you rebuild and seal the cabinets. They will reward you with excellent imaging when driven with the right gear.

Cheers,

David
 
Nice set of Five. Im sure you are going to enjoy them. I think the grill fabric looks pretty good. I have the older model with point to point wired crossover.
 
Congratulations on your new KLH Model 5's. They are some very nice sounding speakers and there are numerous threads on AK that cover the restoration process. Just remember to seal everything and only use the sealant from VintageAR on eBay to seal the skivvers/surrounds on the woofers. Keep us posted. :thmbsp:
 
The single wire on the dual 3mf and 4mf caps is the common and should be connected to ground.

My struggle is determining which positive lead is the 3uf side and which is the 4uf side.

I am a Marantz guy and these will likely be powered by my freshly restored Model 33 (preamp) and Model 16 (amp).
 
My struggle is determining which positive lead is the 3uf side and which is the 4uf side.

I am a Marantz guy and these will likely be powered by my freshly restored Model 33 (preamp) and Model 16 (amp).

What brand and type of capacitors are you using? Normally non-polarized/bipolar caps are used.
 
Dayton Audio polypropylene caps. I will likely leave the resistors. I might check them but typically find wirewounds pretty stable.

The 16 will give you synergy + with the Fives from previous experiences.

I don't understand this comment. The 16?
 
I see what you mean. I'm pretty sure my early model Fives had two 4 uf caps in that spot. Are you sure that cap wasn't labeled 2x4 uf ? If not there must be a indicator on the cap to distinguish the 3 uf from the 4 uf
 
Very nice looking set of Fives!

Do you have the schematic? That may help guide you regarding the dual cap question.

You will be quite impressed with these when done.

Glenn
 
Very nice looking set of Fives!

Do you have the schematic? That may help guide you regarding the dual cap question.

You will be quite impressed with these when done.

Glenn

Hay Glenn. You got those Fives off the floor yet?:scratch2:
 
Hay Glenn. You got those Fives off the floor yet?:scratch2:

Hey Curt,

Not yet. I do love the way they sound, but, I will try them 4-6 inches raised and see what I get. If I hear any improvements, I'll build some stands. I have some Walnut veneer left over from the Six project I can use for the finished stands to match.

Glenn
 
Hey Curt,

Not yet. I do love the way they sound, but, I will try them 4-6 inches raised and see what I get. If I hear any improvements, I'll build some stands. I have some Walnut veneer left over from the Six project I can use for the finished stands to match.

Glenn

That should look really nice, and it can't hurt the sound either. I really just wanted to say hi. Have a great Christmas. Curt
 
I just acquired a pair of KLH Model 5s. I picked them up because I love my Model 6s and just had to hear their big brother. The cabinets cleaned up pretty well with some olde english. I plan to recap and redope because I want to put these into daily use for the family and don't want to worry about anything. I've read there were many different crossovers used on these so I opened it up and grabbed a photo. I then labeled everything like I do when I work on older amps (that don't have silkscreening). If I don't do this I just get confused at some point.

attachment.php


My question is on the +3uf / +4uf cap. How do I know which positive lead is which?

attachment.php


Poorly lit photo from my basement. Will have to watch out for another badge. Still on the fence about new grill cloth.
attachment.php

To me it looks like there is printing closest to the 3 uF cap side indicating it is 3 uF.

The side not explicitly labeled would be 4 uF.

The single wire end would be common.

Better close ups of these caps would help a lot.
 
Thanks. That was my guess. I'm guessing it will be easier to tell once off the board. Sorry about the pic.

The 3uf lead is the one nearest the 16uf cap. I've restored a number of these speakers, and I'm actually working on a pair now. I use an LCR meter to verify cap values, new and old.

Interestingly, the old caps did not measure all that badly in the pair I'm currently working on. It is not unusual to find them to be all over the place.

Roy
 
The 3uf lead is the one nearest the 16uf cap. I've restored a number of these speakers, and I'm actually working on a pair now. I use an LCR meter to verify cap values, new and old.

Interestingly, the old caps did not measure all that badly in the pair I'm currently working on. It is not unusual to find them to be all over the place.

Roy

Roy. Good to see you checking in on us.
 
Roy. Good to see you checking in on us.

Hi Curt :)

acetate,
Make sure to use a good switch cleaner (such as Deoxit) on the switches while you have the crossovers out. Unlike the simple switches found in models such as the KLH 17, these are notorious for becoming corroded and causing headaches.

Roy
 
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