Specs for coupler switch on CA-1010?
- Thread starter Zombie
- Start date
Just disassemble it and clean it.
I have used these in the past. Check the pin spacing. The PCB through holes may need to be drilled out a bit larger. Not much ,just a few thousandths of and inch.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtHXLepoqNyVW7E3ZN7KLOfGfZAiBVAd34=
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PM Clinic audio he may have the yamaha specs your requesting.
Zombie
Active Member
Difficult to find a similar switch here in the country. Thought I was clever and just bypassed the damn switch with a cable. Lo and behold, the crackling is still appearing regardless of the switch position.
What a piece of shit the CAxx10 series is. My CA-810 had the same problems just after a couple of years use, paid half a monthly wage for it as a young man, but had to sell it cheap.
So after spraying the effing switch with almost half a can of contact cleaner and pushing it up and down a thousand times, what else can I do? Hardwire the ****ing thing or send it into the nearest dumpster after taking out all the expensive caps I put into it?
What a piece of shit the CAxx10 series is. My CA-810 had the same problems just after a couple of years use, paid half a monthly wage for it as a young man, but had to sell it cheap.
So after spraying the effing switch with almost half a can of contact cleaner and pushing it up and down a thousand times, what else can I do? Hardwire the ****ing thing or send it into the nearest dumpster after taking out all the expensive caps I put into it?
Hmm .. Maybe the problem is not the switch. If you by-passed the switch and the problem still exists.Possibly bad relay contacts, something to ponder over! CA-1010/810 are excellent amplifiers. BTW its almost impossible to get slide switches totally deox'd without disassembling the switch and polishing the slides.
What are the symptoms of your troubles ?
Zombie
Active Member
It has been only the right channel, before and after. It works fine with the source connected to the power amp input.
Zombie
Active Member
Latest development: when one channel dies, I push the woofer (JBL L100) inwards fast and the sound returns for a while. The channel fallout occurs after several hours of playing. If I increase the volume in a burst, the right channel works longer than with a woofer push. Sounds like a faulty cap, but I have replaced all elcos. Does this implicate the relay or smth else?
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You can try cleaning the contacts on the relay. But its usually a short term fix. Personally I´d replace it.
Yes the protect relay is on the PS board. The other relay is for class A switching of power transformer windings.
exact drop-in replacements
Panasonic
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/HL2-HP-DC12V-F/255-2395-ND/1956559
or...
Omron
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LY2-0-DC12/Z978-ND/207090
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Zombie
Active Member
Thanks. For those of you not living in the shadow of Mouser or Digikey, there is a source in Europe here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380592010670?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
