2275 Has Arrived! Recap Underway!

MarkyM

Active Member
My 2275 arrived yesterday:

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Interesting packing material choice...but it worked!:

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Nice and clean!!:

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Dove into the recapping right away starting the the P800 power supply board. I decided to snip the wires off the wirewrap posts, clean them off and will simply solder the wires back to the posts when reinstalling the board.

Before:

P1103074-XL.jpg


Caps removed and board cleaned (glue removed) with ArctiClean 1 and my fingernail:

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Completed board with new relay and all 105 degree caps (Nichicon KA "audio rated" and 1 Panasonic FC):

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Question: I used the ArctiClean kit to clean off the thermal surfaces on H804 and applied a thin film of Arctic Silver thermal compound to both sides of the mica insulator. I used the original insulator since it looked good. is that OK??

Thanks for all the great restoration threads here! It is really helpful to have a plan and know what to do before you start.
 
Looks nice and clean!
I wouldn't use the computer heat sink compound. I think it's best to use the standard zinc oxide stuff. You can reuse the mica if it's in good shape but I'd replace it with new.
I also never take the boards completely out to work on them, I rarely have to remove a wire to gain access.

The 2SD313 transistors are operating very near their maximum rated voltage, I always replace them with better parts, say MJE15030G (On Semi)
My 2 cents.

Tom
 
Thank you Catrafter.

The Arctic Silver compound came with the ArcticClean kit. I'll use the white stuff going forward. Any need to do over on that one? Its in and working now.

OK thanks, I'll order the MJE transistors.

Power supply board is back in, unit powered up fine and listening to FM now. AM works too. So far, so good!

Next up is the tone board.
 
I am in the middle of doing a 2275 for a client right now. This must be number about number 20 for me and I can tell you that there is not one wire that needs to be removed to gain access to any board in the whole receiver, including the MPX (P300) board. You may have to cut a few wire ties or remove them from the clip or loom that secures them in nice neat bundles, but you won't have to disconnect any.

Tom

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OK, thanks.

It looks like I won't have to remove any more wires.

The Tone board has a connector and I was able to work on the Phono board without removing it.

The power supply board was a lot easier to clean with it removed though.

Here's the Tone board clean and ready for recapping:

P1103103-XL.jpg
 
You can use WIMA film capacitors for many of the electrolytic types in the audio signal path if you want.

Tom

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I am in the middle of doing a 2275 for a client right now. This must be number about number 20 for me and I can tell you that there is not one wire that needs to be removed to gain access to any board in the whole receiver, including the MPX (P300) board. You may have to cut a few wire ties or remove them from the clip or loom that secures them in nice neat bundles, but you won't have to disconnect any.
Tom

I have been struggling with the 2275 MPX board all morning. May I draw on your vast experience and tell me what needs to be loosened to raise that board up enough to work on it?

Thanks!
 
Sure, I'll try.

Tape the dial cord down to the drum and the pulleys on the right side.
Remove the cord from the left side pulley, pull the cord back and secure it with a rubber band so it is out of the way.
Remove the meter lamp holder and the plastic lamp shroud.

Remove the standoffs securing the MPX board to the chassis, you may want to remove the two that hold the FM Dolby level board too
Set the unit on it's right side, lift the MPX board up from the back side like in the pic I posted earlier. As you lift the MPX board away, try to see which wires are too tight, find them on the bottom side and do whatever you have to do to get some slack, cut wire ties, remove them from the clips, etc.. The gray shielded wire goes to the FM quadradial jack on the rear panel. There is quite a bit of slack in it, but it's usually all back at the rear, so do what you have to do to get the slack up under the MPX board.
If you look at the pic in this post you will see a piece of blue tape over the AM tuning capacitor, the last thing you want is to drop a cut lead or some solder in there!

Do one at a time and note the polarity of each one before you remove it, I think they are all marked, but you never know.
I use a Hakko 808, but for a few years I used a 'sucker' and wick. In some tight places you may have to use wick. Move the wires away from where you are working so you don't melt any.

I like to use Pansonic ECQ-V1H224JL and ECQ stacked film for the small bi-polars around the MPX chip, C306,309 ECQ-V1H224JL, C307 ECQ-V1H474JL
Use ECQ-V1H224JL for C323 and C324, ECQ-V1H105JL for C325 and C326.

If you drop a cut lead, stop all work and don't proceed until you find it. I like to work on a plastic cutting board, it's easier to find them than on carpet.

Keep up the good work!

Tom

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Thank you so much Tom!

That MPX board is a real P...I...T...A! It literally took me all day. But I'm having fun...no...really, I am!

I managed to do it without touching the dial string. I only had to cut one wire. I was able to find the other tight ones and pull some slack.

Tested and all is well...everything is working!

Left to do: FM IF strip, AM Tuner, the 2 Amp boards and the 2 big filter caps.

Here are the completed Tone, Phono and MPX and Dolby Level boards:

P1113105-XL.jpg


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http://mmanolio.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Marantz-2275-Restoration/i-pxqt7Xj/0/XL/P1113107-XL.jpg

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Nice work!
On most Marantz models, the MPX board is the hardest to get to, the first one I did took all day, too!

Did you see that there are 5 electrolytic caps in the multipth circuit located on the left side switch board, PS01?

You have to take the front chassis loose to get to those, almost as much fun as the MPX!

Tom

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Thanks Tom!

Yes, I saw it :sigh: I'm gonna save that for a...distant...last. The multipath meter is working fine :D
 
Also, thanks for the info on the WIMA caps. I ordered a pair of WIMA 4.7 poly's to replace the Panasonic SU's I used on the Tone board.
 
Great going, so far. I took the cover off my recently acquired Marantz 2275 and was disgusted to see the power supply board had at least a couple more leaky capacitors than yours did. So I put in an order and just finished recapping that board, screwed it back down and it operates fine. While I was at it, I reset the amp adjustments If I get ambitious enough, I'll later do the remaining big job on the rest of it. I wish you good luck toward a successful finish for yours. I think the 2275 is one of the nicest models of a classic Marantz.

By the way, what filter caps are you using?
 
Thanks,

Agreed!

Main filter caps I ordered are Panasonic ECE-P1KA153HA 15000UF 80V 20% SNAP, Digi-key# P13197-ND as recommended here.
 
Thanks,

Agreed!

Main filter caps I ordered are Panasonic ECE-P1KA153HA 15000UF 80V 20% SNAP, Digi-key# P13197-ND as recommended here.

Those are nice filter caps, you can also use CDE 383LX153M00B062VS, Digikey# 338-2037-ND, they have the same specs and are a little less expensive.

Tom
 

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Did the old capacitors also each have a total of 5 terminals?
No, the old ones had two solder lugs each. I use snap-in types and cut the unused terminals off. I add ring terminals for wire connection, a neat trick I learned from Echowars.

Tom
 
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