Inside Look of the "DEATH CUBE"

I would thing that any grease would work. I used wheel bearing grease. When I took mine apart I seen they had used grease in there from the factory. How are you coming along?
 
It could have been an air weep hole for when they secured the blank. The tolerances are tight, and any air back pressure would try to force something back off.

Thanks!

I would thing that any grease would work. I used wheel bearing grease. When I took mine apart I seen they had used grease in there from the factory.

Thanks! I wasn't sure sure it would cause wear or something.

How are you coming along?

The capstan won't budge, and I'm out of ideas there. Today I plan to open up the bottom bearing assembly and get that cleaned and re-oiled. I have a cat food can ready to go for baking the bushing.

Does the main cylinder need any attention other than cleaning? What do those etched channels that wrap around it do?
 
Not sure what they do. Just clean everything real good. Try to get as much oil as possible in the top bearing. Fill the felt pad with oil and drop some around the spindle and let it soak while you are working on the back. Add more as needed.
 
Not sure what they do. Just clean everything real good. Try to get as much oil as possible in the top bearing. Fill the felt pad with oil and drop some around the spindle and let it soak while you are working on the back. Add more as needed.

Good idea. My version of the Borg doesn't have the four oiling holes in the end cap like yours does, so I'll have to try and drizzle some through to the bearing some other way. There a bit of vertical play between the thick part of the rotor and upper shell, so I might just be able to do it.
 
That is strange that they made different version of that motor.

I'm guessing that the one you have is a revised version of the one that I have, since the changes address the problems I'm dealing with!

It's also possible that more than one company made them. Mine doesn't have a mfg ID plate on it, so it might not even be a General Industries product.
 
I successfully got the bottom part of the shell apart so that I could get to the bearing, felt ring, etc. It's dry as a bone in there, except for some black grease on the thrust plate.

I've just finished cleaning everything with naptha and am about to start baking the old oil out of the oil lite bearing.

I was able to add oil to the felt ring on the upper bearing through the holes in the outer shell. That will have to do.
 

Attachments

  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    79.1 KB · Views: 80
Last edited:
The inside of yours is way different than mine. Should run quieter and cooler now that you have some oil in it.:thmbsp:
 
The inside of yours is way different than mine. Should run quieter and cooler now that you have some oil in it.:thmbsp:

The rebuild is complete and it still works! Whew.

It is now extremely quiet with with just a light hum from the rotor, which spins with very little resistance now. The platter got up to 100% pitch immediately, not after 20-30 minutes like before.

I have it running in right now and will go check on the temperature in 30-40 minutes. Hopefully the platter won't be warm like it used to get.
 

Attachments

  • 20150419_161252_zpsjtafcwtv.jpg
    20150419_161252_zpsjtafcwtv.jpg
    62.1 KB · Views: 71
  • 20150419_161241_zpstfmitjvv.jpg
    20150419_161241_zpstfmitjvv.jpg
    62.6 KB · Views: 67
So I've been listening to LPs on the ROK for the past few hours, and the top plate is merely lukewarm, not HOT like it would get before.

:tresbon:
 
Back
Top Bottom