CR-1020 power supply recap

Was hoping someone could help me with a question on the CR-1020

I'm having trouble understanding the schematic for the power supply on the CR-1020. The grey wire, which is circled in the picture, looks like it is supposed to be -91V, however I only see -45V on mine when I disconnect it from the amp boards. I think this is related to a problem on the amp boards where both go to a huge 17V DC offset. The amp was working before I re-capped the protection and power supply, and I am able to get it to come out of protection if I remove the +B fuses on both boards. So I think the protection circuit is doing its job.
I can troubleshoot the amp boards but was not sure what voltage the grey wire should be, since -91V doesn't make sense to me looking at it

91v maybe pretty close.It gets dropped to around 57v via a 2.2Kohm resistor on the amplifier boards. Check fusible resistor FR803 ( 10 ohm 220ma) as well as D804 and 806. C817 and C813 too on the Electrolytic Cap board.

Also check for equal rail voltage B+ and B- at the fuses F601 and F602 on the amplifier boards.

I replaced both diodes to be safe and checked all the resistors - they were OK.
This cap, the 220uf C817 appears to be bulging and is brand new. Is both the silkscreen and the schematic wrong or could I just have a bad part? The way it is installed in the photo the + side connects to the large cap.

sorry bad post I initially thought it was backwards, but I was looking at the wrong side of my 2020's board. In comparison (Same Boards)it looks to be correct....kinda strange.

I had the same problem. Changed the cap but it hasn't happened again so i like to believe that it was a faulty cap.

OlHorizontal said:

I replaced both diodes to be safe and checked all the resistors - they were OK.
This cap, the 220uf C817 appears to be bulging and is brand new. Is both the silkscreen and the schematic wrong or could I just have a bad part? The way it is installed in the photo the + side connects to the large cap.

Click to expand...

Its installed correctly. If those diodes were shorted it would have allowed AC to get to that cap and that may have been what cooked the cap.

I had to replace both C817 and C813 to get this to work. Once I did that I was able to get -83V which hopefully is good enough. The amp came out of protection and I was able to hear music. So something took out those 2 capacitors after I replaced them - maybe it was the diodes.
Thanks to everyone for the help