ADS 1230 or ESS 1a
- Thread starter Squirrely
- Start date
essNeff
Active Member
Thanks, The muffs do slide right off. They can be moved forward or back as needed. Easy to fashion, 1/4" Lauan plywood with walnut veneer or Cherry for the Frankies. Styrofoam core with soft foam glued to it. Then I used black acoustic foam for appearance sake. I already had the materials handy so it only cost me my time.
The Cap and Resistor upgrade improved the sound exponentially. Very well worth the cost and effort. The old NPE's were all in spec but of low quality.
Night and Day difference. Very happy with the results.
Thanks for the tip on tilting the Heil. I did consider it previously.
I am tall and have to lean forward and down a bit to get in the "Sweet spot" for the 1b's. That's why I built the Frankies so tall.
When I get around to the damping paste I'll post some pix.
The Toilet paper was for a gag on the Wife. It took only minutes for the frown to appear, but it was worth a laugh.
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Porkloin
Oscar Heil Groupie
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Porkloin
Oscar Heil Groupie
That's extremely reasonable. I only wish they had a tri-amp version.
For me-this is a easier version to decipher-especially if you intend on making one from scratch.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=5593050&postcount=9
It's easy to get thing turned around with the O.E. schematics if you not thinking.......
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=5593050&postcount=9
It's easy to get thing turned around with the O.E. schematics if you not thinking.......
Very nice guys. Thanks for jumping in. The drawing I posted was sent directly to me from ESS. I think there was a misunderstanding because they told me they would send the factory assembly instructions for the AMT Heil Elite. Then I figured since that door was open I asked for assembly instructions on the AMT 1a and the Rock Monitor. I imagine this may have caused quite a stir in the office. A month or so went buy as I continued to ask if they had found the information and I got back vague responses. This hand drawing was likely rendered by the, well intended, employee and sent to get me off his back. I was sure excited with the prospect of factory assembly drawings. Hence the Bananas in my post of 3/5/15 on the Heil Elite thread started by Ron-C.
c-atle-79bay
Super Member
Are those triamp cross overs? I have a set of triamp sonys....Nope, never mind.
Porkloin
Oscar Heil Groupie
I think you want a lot from an electronics manufacturer for a product that was made when you were bird-dogging teenage girls, Squirrel. The drawing you got was accurate. I'm sure that the other drawing floating around Audio Karma (that I sent) came from them as well.
Schematics are usually guarded like the trade secrets that they are.Try to find one for your car online.
Fortunately for vintage speaker collectors, everything is relatively simple and accessible. With a bit of patience (the rough part), a bit of familiarity with schematic technique and a good set of "readers", any crossover can be charted, much like your drawing of the AMT1 internal cabinet dimensions that I stashed in my collection of AMT stuff.
Liefloff
Active Member
If you stick with the 1230s and want to change it up, find a C2000 or similar active crossover, a second amp and flip the bi-amp switch on the back of them
I loved my 1230s before but after going that route they're at the next level.
Ditto - the L1230s paired with the C2000 and the unbelievably undervalued Halfler DH200s are hard to believe. I own L1530s, L1230s, the C2000 bi-amp and the Rosewood L1590s with the integrated PA1 amps.
The L1230 when paired with the C2000 is something special that a non-biamped ESS won't be able to match. I no longer consider speakers that I cannot bi-amp for purchase.
Porkloin
Oscar Heil Groupie
Everything can be biamped. It's just a matter of how far you're willing to go with a pair of wire cutters.
If the wire cutters stay in the tool box, the true joys of an active crossover can never be realized when passing your amplified signal through existing crossover components unknown.
Being light of budget and skeptical of claims that good amps don't go "THUNK", I like the idea of the active/passive hybrid scenario that ADS and ESS (I forget which models) offer, where you get the high pass protection of the capacitors along with the ability to distribute the highs through tubes and the lows through beefy solid state amps. I realize that it's not the optimum scenario that the bi/tri amp crowd love, but it's a safer step in that direction.
I will soon be able to introduce the ESS Series Eclipse crossover to my system but for now I am happy with running Altec 891 with the tweeter disconnected and ESS Heil Elite for the top. The Altecs go up to 600hz and the Heil Elites go from 500hz. I am using a speaker selector that has volume control for each speaker set to tame the Heils. Here is a pic.
Can anyone offer suggestions of how to bi-amp the ADS 1230s without the C2000. I am not very familiar with crossover units and it may be beyond my capabilities right now but if it is doable with good results I am interested in giving it a try.
Can anyone offer suggestions of how to bi-amp the ADS 1230s without the C2000. I am not very familiar with crossover units and it may be beyond my capabilities right now but if it is doable with good results I am interested in giving it a try.
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Good luck at a yard sale.....$50, But then the surround kit and new grill foam added up. I think this combination looks better than the AMT 1a and they are well blended but I think the 1a images better because there is no cabinet around the Heil. These still sound very good to me.
virii01
mayor
You'd need a different active external crossover then. There are a number of options from the professional audio field.
Another option that I was considering before I found a C2000 was the miniDSP 2x4 which should work if you're more of a computer/techie type.
Thanks Virii01
I was reading another thread talking about using Beringer. The language was way over my head. They talked about slope adjustments which, I think, refers to how the signal tails off and picks up at the crossover point but I don't really know. I have my ESS Series Eclips 2241 active crossover I will be using to bi-amp the Heil Elites and Altec speakers. I might just try it with the ADS speakers. I am sure the Series Eclips will work great with the Altec/ESS but it may not be the best for the ADS 1230's. The Series Eclips Active Crossover is fixed crossing at 800hz. The ADS passive crossover crosses at 550hz. Rather than cleaning up base response the ADS my not sound as responsive because of the higher demand on the woofers. Any thoughts?
I will look into the MiniDSP 2x4 as well. Thanks
I was reading another thread talking about using Beringer. The language was way over my head. They talked about slope adjustments which, I think, refers to how the signal tails off and picks up at the crossover point but I don't really know. I have my ESS Series Eclips 2241 active crossover I will be using to bi-amp the Heil Elites and Altec speakers. I might just try it with the ADS speakers. I am sure the Series Eclips will work great with the Altec/ESS but it may not be the best for the ADS 1230's. The Series Eclips Active Crossover is fixed crossing at 800hz. The ADS passive crossover crosses at 550hz. Rather than cleaning up base response the ADS my not sound as responsive because of the higher demand on the woofers. Any thoughts?
I will look into the MiniDSP 2x4 as well. Thanks
