Marantz NR1501 problem

D

drumboy

New Member
Hi, I have a Marantz NR1501 AV receiver that crackles and pops when its first turned on. The noise is quite severe and loud, so that I'm afraid it'll damage the speakers or the receiver itself. I need to leave it and let it 'warm up' for about 10 minutes, then it sounds great, no problems at all. This happens every time its turned on after being off for a while. Seems strange to me, as usually these kinds of problems typically occur after a device has been playing for a while.

I re-wired the speakers in case that was the problem, but the noise didn't change, and it's coming through all the speakers. I also tried it with the headphones, so cutting the speakers out altogether, but the distortion still comes through until about 5 minutes after switching on.

Does anyone have any ideas? All help gratefully received!
 
Thanks standuffer, that's certainly one way to solve the problem. Would be nice to get to the bottom of it though.
 
Cold Joint

drumboy said:
Thanks standuffer, that's certainly one way to solve the problem. Would be nice to get to the bottom of it though.
Click to expand...

I don't know your ability or experience but since it's a cold>warm issue my 1st thought would be a cold solder joint.

Look for some cloudy (non-shiny) solder points or a tiny crank in the solder joints around the Larger Soldered Components like caps or cables and cable connectors.

:scratch2:
 
Cold solder issues stemming from crap Chinese solder. I have a Marantz AV unit, and recently gave away a decent Harman Kardon. Both suffer from bad solder and especially the dreaded HDMI board overheating issue.

If you can reflow the bad solder joint, it might fix it. Me, I'd just leave it on.

And welcome to AK!
 
Can't remember...

Yamaha 3040. I really enjoy it. I've been listening to a lot of two channel (cd) with it, including FM. The local classical station here broadcasts in HD and with the "enhancer" switched in, it's very nice.

Just for fun, I connected the NAD 275 (150wpc 2 channel) amp to the pre outs on the receiver but the difference between using the NAD amp and the receiver internal amp really isn't noticeable.

Like has been said here before, lots of bang-for-the-buck from the current ht receivers.

Murray
 
standuffer said:
Do the new-ish Yamahas run as HOT as my V2700 (2007) does? When I crank it for no more than 10 - 15 minutes it can get as hot as 115*. :music:
Click to expand...
I have mine on the second shelf of the gear rack and about 3" between the receiver and the top of the rack. When I walk up to the receiver, I can feel the heat coming out. Sort of like a mini space heater. :)

Curious, I measured the temp as best I could and I get 107 F where the heat sinks are when using the internal amp to drive the mains. This would be after a couple of hours turned on. After I connected the external amp and checked again after a few hours the temp was - 107 F.

So, that's really just the bias current. Most of my two channel listening is at maybe 1 - 4 watts with perhaps a peak of maybe 8 watts. Even though the mains and center are 4 ohm speakers, the receiver has never shut down while operating. I just hooked up the external amp a couple of days ago so all of my prior use has been with the internal amp.

My experience with three ht receivers that I've used over the last few years is that they all run hot.

Murray
 
apologies to OP for hijacking...

skippy_ps said:
I have mine on the second shelf of the gear rack and about 3" between the receiver and the top of the rack. When I walk up to the receiver, I can feel the heat coming out. Sort of like a mini space heater. :)

My experience with three ht receivers that I've used over the last few years is that they all run hot.

Murray
Click to expand...

My V2700 shut down just once, right after I'd up-ed the rail voltage by changing the impedance setting from 6 > 8 ohms. At that time I was driving 6 ohm fronts (bi-amped). Since then I have increased the ventilation space above the AVR from 3" > 8" and turned bi-amp-ing OFF. The front speakers (Kappa 6.1) are still bi-amp-ed but now the woofers are being driven by a Carver TFM35 while the AVR's amps are driving the mids & tweets.

I have no idea how many watts I'm using but I have been known to "crank it up" occasionally by turning the volume up in the range of -7 to - 2.5 db as indicated by the "short message" display.
FYI... this is usually when listening in just stereo. :music:

Anyway, with this latest configuration it hasn't "shut off" but WOW it can still get HOT. :guitar:
 
A entertainingly simple thread.. from the CRS to the drive by. Har!
 
standuffer said:
My V2700 shut down just once, right after I'd up-ed the rail voltage by changing the impedance setting from 6 > 8 ohms. At that time I was driving 6 ohm fronts (bi-amped). Since then I have increased the ventilation space above the AVR from 3" > 8" and turned bi-amp-ing OFF. The front speakers (Kappa 6.1) are still bi-amp-ed but now the woofers are being driven by a Carver TFM35 while the AVR's amps are driving the mids & tweets.

I have no idea how many watts I'm using but I have been known to "crank it up" occasionally by turning the volume up in the range of -7 to - 2.5 db as indicated by the "short message" display.
FYI... this is usually when listening in just stereo. :music:

Anyway, with this latest configuration it hasn't "shut off" but WOW it can still get HOT. :guitar:
Click to expand...
Who knows. I have mine set at 8 ohms with the sub crossover set to 60hz for the mains and 80hz for the 4 surround speakers. I usually set the volume at -20 to -16 when watching a movie and it can get really intense/loud during an action flick. But, doesn't over heat. :shrug:

For two channel tunes, I usually have it set a no louder than -20.

Murray
 
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