Realistic STA-2250 receiver

Sta-2250

when you get to adjusting the idle current you will see why i chose to replace those VR's with mutli turn equivs(adj is so sensitive)as access is a bit tight i also chose to mount them on a small matrix board mounted close by, that also had the resistor test points run to it , not everyones approach but it works for me,
 
Enjoying the STA-2250/uploaded some service manuals

Hi All,

I replaced the caps in the power supply board, preamp and power amp. I did not touch the tuner yet, I may enjoy this unit a little more before I do that.
While enjoying my new toy I scanned the Service Manuals for the Realistic SA2000 Integrated Amp and RealisticTM-1001 Tuner.

Sure hope that manual for the STA-2250 shows up soon... :music:

Regards,

GC
 
I had a STA-2250 with the memory lock problem. Usually not a Radio Shack equipment lover. Picked it up at the local thrift for $5. Did not particularly care for the sound of the tuner, typical early digital while the sound of the amp was excellent. One of the better sounding integrated and well worth buying just for the amp. Modding it to use as either a preamp or power amp looked easy. Mine developed power supply cap issues so sidelined. When I decided to downsize units held for repair were the first thinned and the 2250 went.
 
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if I can interrupt: i have the opportunity to buy a Realistic 2080 and right now I have a MCS 3253 (made by NEC in Japan - rumor has it). Which one is better?
 
STA-2250 Board P-200862 need help with ribbon cable position

Hi All,

I am in the process of recapping the memory board P-200862 on my STA-2250. While flipping the board over the lower ribbon on the 11 pin plug came lose before I could record which way it went. I know I should have taken notice to it before doing anything my error. From the front of the receiver the board is right behind the display, plug is left of the big chip and TR-807 to TR-813. There are two ribbons that plug into this plug. The top ribbon has the wire with the white line in the middle of the plug. Does the other ribbon with the white line go next to the top ribbon with the white line or does it go the opposite direction? I have no schematic on this thing, that is why I am asking. I will post some photos if that will help. Any info appreciated.

Regards,

GC
 
Replaced all the caps but two

Well still no memory and I only have two caps to replace. The non polarized one and the 10 uf one at the top. I figured out the wiring issue, hope these last two capacitors solve the memory storage issue.

Regards,

gc
 
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bierbier said:
Hi All,

I am in the process of recapping the memory board P-200862 on my STA-2250. While flipping the board over the lower ribbon on the 11 pin plug came lose before I could record which way it went. I know I should have taken notice to it before doing anything my error. From the front of the receiver the board is right behind the display, plug is left of the big chip and TR-807 to TR-813. There are two ribbons that plug into this plug. The top ribbon has the wire with the white line in the middle of the plug. Does the other ribbon with the white line go next to the top ribbon with the white line or does it go the opposite direction? I have no schematic on this thing, that is why I am asking. I will post some photos if that will help. Any info appreciated.

Regards,

GC
Click to expand...
I figured out the wiring. Just two more caps to replace.

gc
 
I have a STA-2250 SM (31-2095) that I bought a few years back to fix a friends unit. Could scan some pages if you need them.
Suggest to use either Nichicon UKL or Elna SilmicII as ecap replacements, for power supply stuff you can use Panasonic FC, Nichicon UPW, lots of possibilities.

Rick
 
That would be great! I would much appreciate it. Question, I noticed that one channel was lacking bass. Would a recap possibly fix that issue?
 
It is difficult to say if just replacing ecaps would fix a problem such as lacking bass on one channel. Many times it is connections, contacts, pots that cause these problems. Cleaning them can fix some of these issues.
One has to do measurements, audio sig gen/AC Voltmeter, to test if/where a signal is attenuated through the signal path. Once that is determined then you can target in on the area causing the problem. I do not like suggesting to blindly changing components unless I have a history of a particular problem and know exactly what is the cause and effect.

Rick
 
Understood. Well I am giving it a thorough cleaning and recap and I'll see how it is doing at that time. I don't have any test equipment other than a digital multimeter and an analog one. I was a radar tech in the 70's but unfortunately did not stay in the electronics field for very long after I got out of the Air Force. I think I have forgotten too much to really do a lot these days. I would appreciate it if you could scan that for me. You can either send it to me or put it in the AK database....
Thanks!
Jim
 
sorry guys....life sidetracked me somewhat but ill try and finish what i intended to do awhile ago. i still have the original service manual for this which i purchased at the same time as the amp, its still in perfect condition, its being scanned and will be made available.. PM me if you need it.
 
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Well i cant upload the service manual (again!) as its over 20mb (103mb..thnks acrobat), and ive had no response to my request for help uploading (once again), or indeed any further interest in this service manual, ill quit trying.
 
Send it to hifiengine, your copies might be better than what they have. I have never looked at the SM portion on hfe. I know they did an excellent job merging the 2 sch pages i sent them. strange that we do not see much of this model, mine sits on the shelf, the ac switch is broken. it was decent rx except for the faulty AC switches they put in them.
 
my mod to make changing the big caps easier in this. the small board is backed by a piece of elephant hide and 5mm rubber,,,,cleans up the wiring nightmare somewhat :)

*i replaced mine with elna 10000uf 80v 105c.....sounds epic :)
 

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