Fixing those scratched dust covers..

Perhaps this has been mentioned on this years old thread but I have had excellent results with Plastic X. I have used it with a microfiber bonnet to take scratches out of my clear motorcycle windscreen. I have even had great success with using it for an old big screen HDTV where my dog had put some scratches in it when he was younger. It both took the scratches out and did not haze the screen or anything. I have also used it to "restore" car headlights. The item I am using dictates how I apply it.

To do a final finish after using a more aggressive polish I have started to use Plexus upon rave reviews from others that were using it on boat and aircraft windscreens. It seems to work fairly well although I think it is limited to light finishing rather than taking out scratches, at least that has been my experience.

Finally, a bit off topic, but the best product I have found to clean slightly scratched CD's so they work again, better than any CD cleaner made for this, is called Liquid Ebony. It is a product that is made for cleaning fiberglass molds, not sure if it is made any longer or where to get it, my dad used to sell fiberglass raw materials wholesale so that is how I acquired it.
 
I like Meguiars PlastX. Appears to be the consumer version of the #17 mentioned by eThink. Started out using #17 way back on some vintage plexiglass windscreens. Some of these were quite soft, others were aged and hardened by time and the elements. It worked well on all although repeat sessions were required on the ones in poorer condition. No noticeable swirl marks left behind if the right cloth is used. My use on the dust covers is limited but worked well on the couple I've done.
 
I've used Meguire's Scratch-X followed by Ultimate Compound using elbow grease. They worked well for me. I've even used 3000 grit (wet) sand paper before the ultimate compound for deep scratches with success. An orbital buffer would be difficult to use in IMO and an accident waiting to happen. I would point out getting an orbital buffer with a clutch. A standard grinder etc. will not give if you apply too much pressure and increase the odds of ruining the plastic.
 
Using PlastX here on an old Denon DP-23f dust cover...it's doing good.

Like someone else in this thread said....work in stages, don't expect miracles in one application.

On application #5.....looking a WHOLE lot better :)

.
 
If scratches are really deep I start by sanding with 600 or 800 grit paper then I move on to 3M rubbing and polishing compound and then finally PlastX.
 
i know this is an old question, but if no one has suggested it yet, i'd give jeweler's rouge a go on the obsidian, they use it on precious stones and metals, so it may be able to handle obsidian...if not it may have to be a diamond based compound. i only know a little, cuz i have a friend who is a flint knapper, and he makes obsidian scalpels for surgery, as it can be made much thinner than steel...nifty stuff, but that would be my best idea of where to start...maybe just ask a jeweler if they have any experience with obsidian.

Good Luck and Be Well,

—dave

I've been using various grades of automotive abrasives with the same success. Deep scratches sanded out with 1200 wet and dry and then working up the same way I would if polishing aluminum or a twin-pack paint finish. I did try a soft buffing wheel on a spare piece of plastic but it needs a very light touch - better by hand me thinks. The final polish with a quality car wax always looks fantastic. I'll definately take a look at the link, though I wonder if its available over here :(

As for CD's (!?$%) Acrylic formula Tcut followed by a lighter abrasive polish can bring back to life very badly scratched ex-jukebox CD's. You just have to be careful not to go through the laquer! When I discovered this I had nothing to lose - the 'perfect music forever' jumped like mad...

I've been trying to find a source for polishing materials to get a couple of marks out of my obsidian plinth, anyone here know anything about polishing the stuff? Everything I've read just says 'difficult' and warns of leaving minute scratches in the surface. Its also a bit brittle, being a large lump of volcanic glass. Any help much appreciated. I tried my local headstone cutter and a marble fireplace workshop but they didn't want to know - maybe a jewellers might help???
 
Some guy on Youtube uses Brasso. I have not tried it but might someday if I think to buy it LOL
 
So I used the 3M Headlight Restoration System mentioned a number of times in this thread. I followed all of the directions closely and while all of the major scratches are gone, the dustcover is still somewhat hazy from fine swirl marks all over it. I spent around 5-6 hours and I'm really not that happy with how it turned out (but my dust cover wasn't that bad to begin with). In certain angles/lighting, it looks perfect, but at other angles all you can see are swirled scratches. Anyway, because I'm anal about stuff like this, does anyone have a recommendation about where I get this professionally repaired? Would an auto body shop be able to make it crystal clear? Or how a source for replacing it with a new dust cover? (I have a Mitsubishi LT-20). Thanks for your help.

Bumpity bump bump bump

I too would love to know of a place that I could take my PX-2 cover to.

Glenn
 
I found the PlastX polish to be pretty effective when used with a low-speed oscillating buffer. I might add that this is pretty much what most automotive body shops would do as well. Of course, body shops all differ from place to place.....so a consultation with several in your area might reveal several different methods for resolving the headlight problem. I might also add that I believe there are several different 'kit's available for that issue. As such, I'm sure some work better than others. Maybe try yet another kit? I purchased the small, air-driven oscillating buffer available at Harbor Freight and Tool. It has a little 3" buffer pad, and when used with the PlastX it produced what I considered acceptable results. I DID do a bit of hand buffing at the end......and the cover I was working was REALLY bad when I first started. So, on a relative scale.....I had about a 99% improvement. If your cover is really not all that bad.....then I can see where you may be fighting a bit more of an up-hill battle. Good luck.....and if you find 'the' answer....please let us know. WC
 
Hey

What no Ktels greatest hits of the 1970s ????

It took me 10 hard years to find the complete collection Grump. And I wouldn't give them up even for a night out ( all night with breakfast in the morning) with Michelle Pfeiffer in 1980. Not even if she got on her knees and begged me.
 
Picked up a Pioneer PL-41D at a GW for 10 bucks, it was missing the entire headshell. Going to need a new bottom plastic bearing, that I will make and a new belt. Over all it's in pretty good shape for a TT thats about 42 years old. The cover was not bad, just very much covered with fine scratches, nothing deep.
So I read this post from beginning to end and today I stopped at the auto parts store and picked up some 1500 grit wet or dry sand paper and some Meguiars PlastX cleaner and polish. I wet sanded the cover all over in the kitchen sink for maybe 30 minutes and rinsed it. After it dried I used the Meguiars on a 4" x 4" area to see how it looked. What a difference, I could go ahead and polish the rest but tomorrow I'll hit it again with the sand paper. I think 1 or 2 more sanding sessions and it will be ready to polish out. This should look darn near new when I'm finished.
There was a post were a guy started with 400 grit and worked his way up to super fine grit. He was very dissatisfied. Never start with something so course, even on heavy scratches. That 400 grit scratches deep and he never took the time to work all those scratches out. Use the finest paper you can get away with, in the long run it will take less time.
Anybody have a complete head shell for this thing? When it went on the shelf at the GW it was complete, price was 25 bucks. I got there a short time later and got it for 10 because someone stole it. Sleaze bag!

BillWojo
 
Thanks Balifly, I looked on Epay and couldn't find one for my model. I'm not in a big rush as I have other work to do to it yet. As a last resort that Stanton looks nice, I'd just like to keep this as original as possible.
I sure hope the scumbag that swiped the one from mine is enjoying it. Probably threw the head shell in the trash, just wanted what ever cartridge was on it.

BillWojo
 
So I read this post from beginning to end and today I stopped at the auto parts store and picked up some 1500 grit wet or dry sand paper and some Meguiars PlastX cleaner and polish. I wet sanded the cover all over in the kitchen sink for maybe 30 minutes and rinsed it. After it dried I used the Meguiars on a 4" x 4" area to see how it looked.

What did you use as the wetting agent with the 1500 grit paper? The Meguiars?

I'm a newbie with this type of work so I apologize if it's obvious. I was given a player that was stored in a friend's garage. Lots of scuffing and yellowing with this cover so I want to see what I can do with it.
 
What did you use as the wetting agent with the 1500 grit paper? The Meguiars?

I'm a newbie with this type of work so I apologize if it's obvious. I was given a player that was stored in a friend's garage. Lots of scuffing and yellowing with this cover so I want to see what I can do with it.

Just warm water with a drop of dish soap to break down surface tension. Also a soft foam sanding block helps for a more even finish.

If you've got a Harbor freight nearby they sell a dual action polisher(very safe for novice users) that can be had for sub 50 bucks. They also sell foam pads and Meguiars compound and polish. So for less than a benjamin you can make that scratchy, cloudy dustcover as good as it possibly can(your arm with thank you). And in the summer you can use it to keep the family truckster nice n' shiny to help justify the cost.

Also, as far as sandpaper grades I never go lower than 800. I'd rather make few more passes with a finer grit than have to go through all the trouble of taking out heavy sanding marks. It also helps to do your sanding in a single direction with whichever grade you start with and then switch directions for the next finest grade(800 grit east/west, 1000 grit north/south). It helps to make sure you remove all the courser grit marks have been removed and move on to the next step.
 
The people that are suggesting wet 800-1500 grit wet sanding have it right. It does take a long time even with a dual action sander. Almost the same rules as the final blocking of a car paint job. Long and boring job.
 
Just warm water with a drop of dish soap to break down surface tension. Also a soft foam sanding block helps for a more even finish.

If you've got a Harbor freight nearby they sell a dual action polisher(very safe for novice users) that can be had for sub 50 bucks. They also sell foam pads and Meguiars compound and polish. So for less than a benjamin you can make that scratchy, cloudy dustcover as good as it possibly can(your arm with thank you). And in the summer you can use it to keep the family truckster nice n' shiny to help justify the cost.

Also, as far as sandpaper grades I never go lower than 800. I'd rather make few more passes with a finer grit than have to go through all the trouble of taking out heavy sanding marks. It also helps to do your sanding in a single direction with whichever grade you start with and then switch directions for the next finest grade(800 grit east/west, 1000 grit north/south). It helps to make sure you remove all the courser grit marks have been removed and move on to the next step.
Thanks. Re: the polisher at Harbor Freight is it electrical or air powered? I don't have a compressor. I have a dremel and I was going to ask about using that, but a quick google search indicates that it may not be the best tool for polishing over a large surface.
 
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