Dedicated line, what do I need?

frankbooth

frankbooth

Super Member
So, I have a contractor out here doing some kitchen stuff. He was recommended by my favorite hifi shop owner.
He's going to do some light electrical work also and I asked him about putting in a 20a line for me and he will do it pretty cheap.
So, what do I really need?
My shop sells hospital grade outlets for $30 or I can get a PS audio for around $50.
Next is the wire, the more I read the more opinions I see about all different options. Is regular wire good enough?
Breakers, same as above.

From where my outlet will be to the box is less than 10 foot, a very easy install as its right below my stuff.
I'm not looking to piss money away but I'm the type that likes to do things "right" the first time and forget about it. My stuff isn't "high end" but I think this little tweak is worth it.
Anyway, I'm open to suggestions.


My gear is;
Yamaha A S2000 integrated
Music hall A 25.2 CDP
Music hall MMF 5.1
Rega fono mm pre
Morrow Audio MA 3 cables
Monitor Audio RX 6

Updates will be a DAC, maybe NAD M51
 
doing it right is a must! But, it really won't make any difference in sound what wire, breaker or outlet you use. For that matter, even the new circuit. But, if it makes you happy, do it. I'm an electrical contractor, I know about the different wires and devices
 
You don't need a hospital grade or isolated ground receptacle. Dedicated circuit can't hurt, but unless you are having an issue with capacity, not necessary. As far as it being isolated, once it hits the bus bar in the panel it's common to half the stuff in your house anyway.

I am putting in a separate circuit, but that's because my existing is pretty full and I am adding a tube amp/preamp at 600+ watts.
 
Like you, I had the opportunity to do this without too much grief at one point so installed 2 dedicated lines for my audio stuff. I just used standard breakers and wire for a 20amp service but did use hospital grade outlets - they don't cost much and they do seem to make for a very tight, solid connection when used with better grade plugs.

Does all this matter? Well, I think so but don't get too hung-up on arguing about it or trying to justify it - I like the way my system sounds and if this helped get it there great - it wasn't that big a deal to do it.
 
A dedicated circuit can't hurt. However, I'm an electrician, have been for over 30 yrs, and those audio outlets are waste of money, imho. The only thing that matters, is how tight the prongs of your cord are held in the outlet. Get a spec grade 20 amp outlet, leviton, hubble, p&s are fine. What ever brand your panel is that's what you use, unless you have some antiquated panel, but that's another issue. Use 12 gauge wire to a 20 amp breaker. Technically, you are supposed to load the breaker to 80% of it's rated value, that would be 1920 watts, the breaker will hold 19 amps(2280 watts) no problem. If you really feel the need you can get an isolated ground outlet. If you are using plastic boxes, 12/2 wire is fine, if you are using metal boxes use 12/3 wire, mark the red as ground(green tape) put it to the box and use the bare ground to the receptacle, otherwise you are defeating the purpose of the isolated ground receptacle. Good luck.
 
Hospital grade 20A recepts are great. If you can find the older all copper ones, even better.

As to the wire to the circuit, I'd use MC Cable. Only reason is that the wire is twisted within the metal jacket for you. 12/2 solid core would be just peachy.
 
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I have a dedicated set of 3 outlets on a 20A 12/2 circuit with master switch.
Only the system is on the circuit (+antenna amp/rotator).
I recently acquired a neat AC line meter which is a neat vintage piece and plugged into this circuit. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=479066
The line voltage is all over the place! From a high of 122v down to 113 sometimes-esp when we are in heat wave weather.
And it fluctuates +/- ~2V often with the meter responding and moving about when there's nothing of consequence going on in the house (no well pump, furnace, lights switching, etc)
But what's really interesting is what happens when I drive the amp hard! You can follow the bass drum hits on the voltmeter and they are large-around 8V.
I will open up the panel and check the breaker/bussbar interface as well as wiring terminals.
It's possible this is normal-the Krell at full chat draws almost 20A and this size of drop may be normal at this load, but it is interesting at the least. (and if you play something loud that is constantly loud, the meter settles down and stays down at the new low level-this isn't confusion from undamped meter ballistics)
 
You're getting a dedicated circuit, right? That will prevent noise from entering the system from other electrical devices. Yes, I have heard this when my wife started a load of laundry.

Get a nice hospital grade receptical. Actually get two or three of them. You'll be prepared for future additions to your set up. 20 amp is a good idea, too.

I have heard that there is wire out there that is recommended for sound quality but I don't know anyone who had used this or done a comparison.
 
pfcs49 said:
I have a dedicated set of 3 outlets on a 20A 12/2 circuit with master switch.
Only the system is on the circuit (+antenna amp/rotator).
I recently acquired a neat AC line meter which is a neat vintage piece and plugged into this circuit. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=479066
The line voltage is all over the place! From a high of 122v down to 113 sometimes-esp when we are in heat wave weather.
And it fluctuates +/- ~2V often with the meter responding and moving about when there's nothing of consequence going on in the house (no well pump, furnace, lights switching, etc)
But what's really interesting is what happens when I drive the amp hard! You can follow the bass drum hits on the voltmeter and they are large-around 8V.
I will open up the panel and check the breaker/bussbar interface as well as wiring terminals.
It's possible this is normal-the Krell at full chat draws almost 20A and this size of drop may be normal at this load, but it is interesting at the least. (and if you play something loud that is constantly loud, the meter settles down and stays down at the new low level-this isn't confusion from undamped meter ballistics)
Click to expand...

Checking all your connections, carefully, is a good idea, or better get a qualified electrician to do it, However the fluctuations may very well be due to the power grid in your area. Most power grids have not had a major up grade in years, while demand has increased quite a bit. I'm talking about the primary side, not the feed coming to your house. The voltage settling down is normal under those circumstances.
 
My reference to the reading settling down:
When I play something at very high level that is uniformly loud, the voltage pulls down; at first it fluctuates because the meter is un damped and apparently a heavy armature, but after oscillating several times, the movement settles down at a notably lower voltage than when the system is playing background music. (about -8V)
 
This is what happens when the power supplied is not enough to handle demand placed on it. As you know the voltage output of a transformer is dependent on the voltage supplied to it. It is also possible that the transformer supplying your home is operating near it's max, or that your service is a bit undersized for modern day demands. I see that you live in Jersey, I'm originally from N.Y.. Our electrical grid is outdated. How often do utilities add transmission lines, and/or more or larger transformers? Most people don't notice, except for momentary dimming of lights that look like they come back to where they were, 8 volts is not very noticeable to your eye. This was probably going on before you got your meter, it's just that now you can see the results.
 
Tangent said:
You're getting a dedicated circuit, right? That will prevent noise from entering the system from other electrical devices. Yes, I have heard this when my wife started a load of laundry.

Get a nice hospital grade receptical. Actually get two or three of them. You'll be prepared for future additions to your set up. 20 amp is a good idea, too.

I have heard that there is wire out there that is recommended for sound quality but I don't know anyone who had used this or done a comparison.
Click to expand...

I know we don't debate whether you can hear the difference is any component here, but a dedicated circuit in and of itself does nothing to prevent noise unless it is run to the other leg of the line feeding your home. If you do need to isolate a your system from a particularly noisy appliance make sure the new circuit is on the other leg. (basically in nearly all residential panels the breakers will alternate legs). Compressors are particularly noisy, but anything with a motor is potentially problematic.

The money for a dedicated line is generally much better spent on a good line conditioner.
 
I never messed much with conditioners and luckily, tried before buying (and rarely bought). I still have one and use it for a few pieces but for the most part - especially for tube amps and pre-amps - I found I like them best plugged straight into dedicated circuits via hospital grade plugs and wall jacks.

I also find it is a good idea to keep all the digital stuff on it's own circuit - if you have a few it's worth trying, seems to work for me and another no-pain option open to try if you put in those extra circuits when the situation allows.
 
A dedicated circuit with quality components is a good idea. Make sure the whole house's electrical system is grounded properly!! My friend's house wasn't, and even with a dedicated circuit, he was chasing all kinds of noise issues. Once the grounding was corrected, all was well.
 
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I'm with JNTIT, I've also been an electrician for 30+ years. 12 gauge wire, spec grade receptacle. If you you have a voltage drop issue, you could get a cvt (constant voltage transformer). Honestly I think its a waste of your money. Hospital grade is good but waste of money. My 2c Honestly if its a dedicated circuit even 12-3 isn't necessary. The 2 wire (12-2) NMC cable (romex) has a full size ground going directly home.
 
I have a dedicated circuit for my music system. Yes, it makes a difference. That said, I have an AC regenerator plugged into it with everything plugged into that. That was an even bigger improvement-no more voltage fluctuations, noise is cleaned up etc.
Jack
 
I'm not having any issues that I'm aware of. The guy is at my house doing some work and, since he's an audio guy I asked him about it. The whole thing, including a hospital grade plug is costing me less than a c-note.
Thanks for the input everyone, dedicated circuit is on its way!
 
Hey, for that price, even if you don't hear a difference, you'll be ready for those megawatt tubed monoblocks you'll want soon enough!!!
 
BayouTiger said:
The money for a dedicated line is generally much better spent on a good line conditioner.
Click to expand...
You're putting the cart before the horse. What good is a line conditioner when its fed by poor wiring, maybe on a branch circuit shared with other power-hungry devices ? The correct way is to start with a dedicated line so that you have goo stable power. If there are other issues, then you add a solution like a line conditioner.
 
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