CA-810 Restoration

My order came in today with new outputs and the metal oxide resistors to replace the fusistors. I was originally going to just replace the L amp side, but ended up doing both sides since the one was shorted open and wanted to keep things equal between the channels. Here's what they measured:

390 ohm spec:
1 - 388
2 - 397
3 - 398
4 - 411

680 ohm spec:
1 - 686
2 - 688
3 - 700
4 - 702

68 ohm spec:
1 - 68.5
2 - 0L
 
Cleaning Grunge

I was reassembling the main board and getting ready to start putting wires back in place, but didn't like how grungy the switches were looking. Clean-in-place wasn't working too well, so...off the front frame came. I also had to unscrew the plate the transformer is attached to to get access to three switches. All of them got desoldered from the board, dunked and cleaned with Simple Green solution and a toothbrush and pipe cleaner. Rinsed with tap water, then distilled, then 91% Isopropyl, then short dry in the oven on low. Before soldering back in place they got the deOxit treatment and then soldered back into the board (the pots got left on the board and just deOxit/Faderlube with a light external scrubbing with Isopropyl.) I also disassembled the lamp board and gave it a good cleaning. Now to just order the new lamps.

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Awesome job so far. My CA-810 has been mine since it left the factory in 1978. And it looks like it's still in the factory. Sad to see one in less than stellar shape, but GREAT to see one being restored.

Can't wait to see it all buttoned up and purring.
 
Nice work!

How does it sound with new components, caps and transistors in?

I haven't put it all back together yet...still need to order bulbs. I have. A couple other units in the pipeline that I'm pretty sure need some bulbs too. Just have to plug them back in and check to see which ones and make one order vs. several.
 
VR-801...What's it Do???

There are 5 variable resistors in the CA-810: VR-401/402 are used in setting the bias, VR-701/702 are used in setting the power level meters. VR-801 is in the schematic, and on the board, but the Service Manual makes no mention of what it is used to set. So, what's it do, where do you hook probes up to adjust it, and what should it be set to?
 

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Apparently I did awhile back, but forgot his post about VR-801. Now, is each wire referenced to ground or do you put the leads across the yellow/grey?
 
Following your post inspired me to do a check up on my CA-810. I metered the bias and it was a bit low. About 9.9 mv on each channel. Adjusted the lift to 20.2 mv and right to 19.9 mv and it sounds much better. Mids and lows that seemed a bit weak are much stronger now. One thing I couldn't figure out, the manual says to check for 0 voltage from Ro and Lo to ground. Where exactly are those test points? It wasn't obviously marked on the board and I don't like touching anything on a hot board if I am not sure. Thanks!
 
...

One thing I couldn't figure out, the manual says to check for 0 voltage from Ro and Lo to ground. Where exactly are those test points? It wasn't obviously marked on the board and I don't like touching anything on a hot board if I am not sure. Thanks!

b. Adjustment of mid-potential

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b. Adjustment of mid-potential

23sdulj.jpg

Thanks Karl. I have that diagram from my service manual. The idle current is set as instructed. I just can't identify the points labeled "Lo" and "Ro" on the diagram on the actual circuit board. There must be something I am missing.
 
Thanks Karl. I have that diagram from my service manual. The idle current is set as instructed. I just can't identify the points labeled "Lo" and "Ro" on the diagram on the actual circuit board. There must be something I am missing.

Next to the relay, you'll see 2 wires, blue (Lo) and orange (Ro) wrapped to the pins :thmbsp:

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Yes. Negative on grey, positive on yellow. Or, at least, I did like that.

Must supply 25V to the input board.

--

In putting the leads across them, you get the full 50V.

Referencing each to chassis ground and adjusting the trimmer til they're pretty equal yields better results. I thought I had a serious problem when I saw the 50V where I expected 25V until I referenced ground.

In other progress, I replaced the L channel trimmer with a sealed multi-turn Murata, and then moved the one I took out over to the R channel's trimmer spot. Why you ask? The side adjustment seemed really bass-ackwards to me since the board has holes under the trimmers for being able to adjust through the board since the trimmers have screw slots on both the top and the bottom. It's also very tough with wires everywhere to try and get mini-grippers latched onto the resistors, impossible really. So, I soldered 1/2" sections of hookup wire to the resistor legs where they came through the board (also did this for the 25V test points). Now, when setting bias or function board voltage, I just hook up my grippers to the test points and adjust as necessary. Pic to follow, but we now have nice sound. Just waiting on the bulbs and final buttoning-up. The case will need a little work due to peeling vinyl veneer...may strip it completely off and see how the case looks without any.
 
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In putting the leads across them, you get the full 50V.

Referencing each to chassis ground and adjusting the trimmer til they're pretty equal yields better results. I thought I had a serious problem when I saw the 50V where I expected 25V until I referenced ground.

In other progress, I replaced the L channel trimmer with a sealed multi-turn Murata, and then moved the one I took out over to the R channel's trimmer spot. Why you ask? The side adjustment seemed really bass-ackwards to me since the board has holes under the trimmers for being able to adjust through the board since the trimmers have screw slots on both the top and the bottom. It's also very tough with wires everywhere to try and get mini-grippers latched onto the resistors, impossible really. So, I soldered 1/2" sections of hookup wire to the resistor legs where they came through the board (also did this for the 25V test points). Now, when setting bias or function board voltage, I just hook up my grippers to the test points and adjust as necessary. Pic to follow, but we now have nice sound. Just waiting on the bulbs and final buttoning-up. The case will need a little work due to peeling vinyl veneer...may strip it completely off and see. How the case looks without any.

I couldn't get the grippers on the resistors either so I just tested it on the bottom side of the board, adjusted, then checked again. It was a bit of a pain. I don't recall having holes in the board for the trimpots on mine either. Now I am going to have to look. :yes: Sounds like a good solution you have. Any danger of the wire extensions shorting on anything?
 
Here's the photo with test locations and the extensions shown. I made one extension per pair longer than the other so the grippers could hang without bumping too much. I stripped about half the length of each wire's insulation off to make a loop to crimp around the resistor leads (with the resistor desoldered this works well). If you'd rather just make the loop and press it on while heating up the solder that's already there, remove all the insulation and grip the bare wire with needle nose pliers. After it's in place, thread the insulation back onto the bare wire. As to shorts, by only removing about half the insulation, there's only about 1/16" - 1/8" exposed at the end for the clips to hook onto. After everything's set, I slide the insulation back over the end, leaving the now-exposed portion of the extension right next to where it's soldered. Sticks up no further than any of the other leads on the board. If it still concerns you, you can always put a piece of electrical tape on the board under the wires, and then another on top of them after you're finished with setting them.

You could also get "fancy" and make a little bend in the wire away from the board right next to the solder connection, and then have it bend back flush with the board (which I may still do). That way the grippers will have a little "hook" to clamp on vs possibly slipping off the end of the wire (ask me why I've thought of this). :D

EDIT: As I've yet to purchase dummy loads, nor made up a 1kHz test tone, I don't intend to fool with the meter trimmers unless absolutely necessary. I did, however, solder 1/8" female terminals on the ends of the disconnected meter wires for easier removal of the front panel if needed in the future. This way, no need to solder them back in place.

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In putting the leads across them, you get the full 50V.

Referencing each to chassis ground and adjusting the trimmer til they're pretty equal yields better results. I thought I had a serious problem when I saw the 50V where I expected 25V until I referenced ground.
Thank you for the report. I might check it again if I took the 25V across the leads or if grounding the other lead.

Here's the photo with test locations and the extensions shown. I made one extension per pair longer than the other so the grippers could hang without bumping too much. I stripped about half the length of each wire's insulation off to make a loop to crimp around the resistor leads (with the resistor desoldered this works well). If you'd rather just make the loop and press it on while heating up the solder that's already there, remove all the insulation and grip the bare wire with needle nose pliers. After it's in place, thread the insulation back onto the bare wire. As to shorts, by only removing about half the insulation, there's only about 1/16" - 1/8" exposed at the end for the clips to hook onto. After everything's set, I slide the insulation back over the end, leaving the now-exposed portion of the extension right next to where it's soldered. Sticks up no further than any of the other leads on the board. If it still concerns you, you can always put a piece of electrical tape on the board under the wires, and then another on top of them after you're finished with setting them.

You could also get "fancy" and make a little bend in the wire away from the board right next to the solder connection, and then have it bend back flush with the board (which I may still do). That way the grippers will have a little "hook" to clamp on vs possibly slipping off the end of the wire (ask me why I've thought of this). :D

EDIT: As I've yet to purchase dummy loads, nor made up a 1kHz test tone, I don't intend to fool with the meter trimmers unless absolutely necessary. I did, however, solder 1/8" female terminals on the ends of the disconnected meter wires for easier removal of the front panel if needed in the future. This way, no need to solder them back in place.

16577121327_8f26f34fd6_b.jpg

Awesome job! I remember I also used some wire extensions for bias. I still have the pieces of wires used for that. I should have taken full pics, too for that. Glad you did it.
 

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