tyv1993
Engineering Student
I believe there is one near me. Good to know! Thanks
New Audio Room
- Thread starter opa1
- Start date
I believe there is one near me. Good to know! Thanks
tyv1993
Engineering Student
The SPI in Syracuse doesn't carry any Owens Corning products. I am going to have to go with roxul rockboard. I compared the coefficients and it appears to be very similar, maybe touch better on the low end of the frequency range and not quite as good in the upper frequencies. Very minimal though.
You can ask them if they carry the Johns Manvsville equivalent to OC703. That's what I got from my local SPI last Friday and I couldn't tell a difference between it and OC703 if my life depended on it. It specs out the same, as well.
The closest Roxul equivalent to OC703, that being similar/same density and gas flow resistance, is the Roxul 60. It's not quite as rigid, however, but much more rigid than Roxul SafeNSound which is what most are getting from Lowes.
The closest Roxul equivalent to OC703, that being similar/same density and gas flow resistance, is the Roxul 60. It's not quite as rigid, however, but much more rigid than Roxul SafeNSound which is what most are getting from Lowes.
tyv1993
Engineering Student
PMd to keep Opa's thread on track.
opa1
Tenacious
tyv1993 said:
From a performance standpoint...not really. You have to put them in a nested frame and I don't like that design for side walls since the edge of the panel is reflective. For front and rear walls the nested frame panel is fine. The differences between the two styles are described in greater detail here...as well as info on building a portable design.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=572781
tyv1993
Engineering Student
What if you drilled out holes in the frame of a nested design? Kind of like swiss cheese.. haha :scratch2:
Say you're using a 1x3 board, and you use a 2.5 or 2.25 inch "spade" drill bit to open up consecutive holes in the board. Allowing the majority of the waves to enter into the absorption panel.
While not ideal, wouldn't that help some in theory?
Absolutely...but would be more work than just building the non-nested style. A lot more work. As a matter of fact, some of the commercially available designs use frames that have openings in the sides.
For a guy like me who has very little free time and needs to knock these kind of projects out as quickly as possible and still get professional results the little bit extra I spend on 703 is totally worth the time savings realized by not having to "swiss cheese" the frames. YMMV>
For a guy like me who has very little free time and needs to knock these kind of projects out as quickly as possible and still get professional results the little bit extra I spend on 703 is totally worth the time savings realized by not having to "swiss cheese" the frames. YMMV>
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GuyK
Addicted Member
This is sort of what I did, and it's not really too much more work. The large panel is made from 1x6 ripped down to 5-3/8" to fit 2 layers of Safe-N-Sound, and the cutouts in the sides were sized to fit 1 layer, 3". Looking back, I could have made the cutouts 3-3/4" or so, but I wasn't sure sure how much rigidity the frame would have on it's own. If I were to do things again I'd make the larger slots. Panels are about 15-1/2" wide to give a nice friction fit of the 16" wide batts tat were available. The only part that took any real time was running a router wit a roundover bit over all the edges.
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tyv1993
Engineering Student
That looks good! :thmbsp:
If I were to use a 1x3, I think the Safe N Sound would stick out a little, thats the only thing I am worried about.. or is it not actually 3 inches thick?
Can it be compressed to fit?
Screen door/window screen works great for containing SafeNSound.
And Guy, the slot is the way to go. Very nice.
Tyv...you don't want to compress the SafeNSound too much to make it fit within the frame, otherwise you change its gas flow resistance characteristics to something other than how it's spec'd. If you look at the second to the last picture in the thread I linked to a few posts ago you'll see one of the panels I use on my rear wall. It uses two 3" pieces of SafeNSound in a 1x6 frame. Since the 1x6 is only 5.5 wide I had some excess absorption media poochin' out. By using the window screen I was able to contain it without compressing it.
And Guy, the slot is the way to go. Very nice.
Tyv...you don't want to compress the SafeNSound too much to make it fit within the frame, otherwise you change its gas flow resistance characteristics to something other than how it's spec'd. If you look at the second to the last picture in the thread I linked to a few posts ago you'll see one of the panels I use on my rear wall. It uses two 3" pieces of SafeNSound in a 1x6 frame. Since the 1x6 is only 5.5 wide I had some excess absorption media poochin' out. By using the window screen I was able to contain it without compressing it.
GuyK
Addicted Member
SafeNSound is an actual 3" in thickness. Tomlinmgt is correct in that you really don't want to compress it too much, but I think you could get away with using 1x3 nominal (2-1/2" actual). I don't think that little bit of compression will be enough to make much, if any, difference. With the 16" batts I used, I don't need to wrap it with anything to contain it - it stays in place by itself, and it's not like loose fill - it won't flow out the slots I cut. 24" batts might be floppy enough to require wrapping, though. I'm using burlap because I can get it in a shade that closely matches the paint on the walls.
opa1
Tenacious
Let the panel builds begin! 
Just picked up a 12 pack of OC703 at SPI. Got it just in time for the weekend. I took another look at Mikes posts on panel building. The first reflection panels are a little different than the wall panels. Will be making two standing and six wall/ceiling mounted.
Just picked up a 12 pack of OC703 at SPI. Got it just in time for the weekend. I took another look at Mikes posts on panel building. The first reflection panels are a little different than the wall panels. Will be making two standing and six wall/ceiling mounted.
opa1
Tenacious
Can lights with dimmer in today. They work perfect with no hum.
Mike I used the same dimmer that you have. I used different LEDs. they are four inch Commercial Electric brand T45 part#1000 053 202. If you have six inch cans, I think they make them for that too. Installed four cans two feet out from each corner of the room. :thmbsp:
Mike I used the same dimmer that you have. I used different LEDs. they are four inch Commercial Electric brand T45 part#1000 053 202. If you have six inch cans, I think they make them for that too. Installed four cans two feet out from each corner of the room. :thmbsp:
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opa1
Tenacious
I have all the panels built. Now I'm needing some type of material for the 703 covers. Brown, black or tan preferred. The 703 will be nested inside the frames. What is the best way to go about this? I can put ridge caps across the front with the material between the frame and cap. Wrapping the 703 and sticking it in the frames with burlap doesn't look or work very well. Ideas?
