Yamaha M-60 Rebuild

Crazeehorse

Active Member
Hi. I am currently rebuilding a Yamaha M-60 and have run into a problem. I need to replace the 4 big capacitors that are rated 33000uF 35v and 33,000uF 50v. My problem is that I simply can't find audio grade capacitors with these specs. I can find 33000uF 16v all day long, or 35v or 50v caps, but none have enough uF if they have the volts. I have been on Digi Key, Mouser, E-Pray... etc. Can anyone point me to a supplier for these. Waiting in the wings is a MX-1000 recap that is even worse. :) Thanks for any help.
 
What are the dimensions (diameter and length) in mm?
Also what is the distance between the centers of the hookup terminals?
 
What are the dimensions (diameter and length) in mm?
Also what is the distance between the centers of the hookup terminals?
These are from and M-65 which should be pretty close if not the same.
33Kµf/50vdc---50mm dia. X 60mm lg got space available up to 90mm in length
33Kµf/35vdc---50mm dia X 53mm lg with space available up to 90mm
LS = 17.5 mm approx.

Happy hunting....amigo:thmbsp:
 
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Thanks for the response guys, I really appreciate it. Avionic, I got the CX-1000 fixed that were were talking about a couple months ago. I recapped it and found the bad op-amp. Its working nice with my MX-1000.
 
:lurk:

Audio grade caps should be used primarily for signal areas. See thread on electrolytic cap shoot out for recommendations and applications placement.
 
Will those mount to the board? The distance between the two active terminals is 25mm.

I'd make'm work. And would still look a helluva lot better than kluging them together in clusters.If you knew how they are mounted in the amplifier, you would know that 27mm is absolutely no problem. Snip off the three unused pins. Then use 1/4" copper braid to connect the + and - pins to the corresponding destinations on the printed circuit board. I'm sorry but romex is for AC house wiring.
 
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I'd make'm work. And would still look a helluva lot better than kluging them together in clusters.If you knew how they are mounted in the amplifier, you would know that 27mm is absolutely no problem. Snip off the three unused pins. Then use 1/4" copper braid to connect the + and - pins to the corresponding destinations on the printed circuit board. I'm sorry but romex is for AC house wiring.

I wouldn't want to try and use that here anyway. According to what I'm seeing here, they appear to be using slotted holes.
 
I wouldn't want to try and use that here anyway. According to what I'm seeing here, they appear to be using slotted holes.

Yes. I'd mount the 4 caps in the plastic clamp in the proper orientation relative to the PCB connection destinations. Then secure the caps in the plastic clamp so they are approx. 1/4-3/8" above the PCB. Solder the braided copper pigtails to the cap pins and leave the pigtails long enough so you can see the braid drop down through the correct PCB slots.Secure the cap clamp to the metal bracket. Then gentily pull the slack/excess braid through the slots. Bend the braid over and solder it to the PCB. Then snip off the waste braid.Finally, ohm check that the caps are not accidentally shorted out. Boda-bing.Easy peasy.

No the new caps will not change the sound Q of the amplifier.
 
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Thank you guys! Especially Avionic. The only reason I was asking about audio grade was that the 2 35v caps have Elna Audio Grade stamped on them. The 50v caps do not. Thanks again for everyone's input. The parts have been ordered.
 
It occurred to me that solder braid would work in this circumstance and add a great deal of flexibility. Any thoughts. There is definitely a sufficient amount of copper for the job.
 
It occurred to me that solder braid would work in this circumstance and add a great deal of flexibility. Any thoughts. There is definitely a sufficient amount of copper for the job.

Bubba.. Thats what I use for braided copper.Works great and solders easy.
 
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