That Was Stupid Easy

My Ranger pickup has been stumbling bad at start up and sometimes would die and have to be started again, rough idle, clattering valves on acceleration. I noticed if I sat for a minute after turning the key on it would start without stumbling as bad. Would give a check engine light occasionally, three times the last couple of days after I cleared it. Codes for random/multiple cylinder misfire, misfire at start up, misfire cylinder 2 or 6 or ?

Okay, I thought about the leave the key on for a minute then would start scenario and thought fuel pressure. Picked up a 13 buck fuel filter and installed it. Starts right up, idles smooth and the clatter is gone. Guess the thing was starving for fuel. I know I changed this filter a year or so ago, but it was dumping black nasty fuel when I pulled it.

Knocking on wood.

Glad it was that easy to fix. I've struggled with engines before only to find an "Oh duh" thing like your fuel filter. I've also seen professional mechanics struggle with problems and then find an "Oh duh."

I'd be concerned about the black nasties in the fuel, though. That doesn't happen for no reason.

I put a coil pack on it a month ago, so it wasn't that cheap to figure out.

I might have to start buying gas elsewhere, but the truck has 245k on it so the tank might need cleaning.

Beatnik said:

I put a coil pack on it a month ago, so it wasn't that cheap to figure out.

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Been there, done that, unfortunately. :tears:

Our beater 2001 Taco (Toyota Tacoma) 4x4 has the same danged symptoms. I've been thinking it was the ignition coils (and have actually changed one of 'em)... but I have a brand new fuel filter sittin' in the garage. Guess I oughta do something about that, eh?

Thanks for starting this thread!

No promises, with these computerized vehicles it could be anything. I notice one of my codes did actually list some fuel system problems.

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0316

I tried a fuel filter to fix my mother's Blazer, but it wasn't that. The filter helped it some, but the real problem was the fuel spider assembly had lost it's regulator. Runs like a top now, but the part was $260 and it took me 3 hours to put it in. I used to work on boats for a living, and easily 2/3 of the problems with those were fuel related. No small amount of them were fixed with nothing more than a fuel filter swap. It became step 1 in any sort of troubleshooting to pull and dump the filter into a can to see what was in there.

I had very similar symptoms with my Ranger. First thing changed was the filter, then plugs and wires. Finally replaced the coil pack, and that took care of the problem.

I just hope the pump holds up. I replaced one in my other Ranger and pulled the bed instead of dropping the tank. I'm to run down to do that again.

What engineer thought "hey, lets put the fuel pump inside the tank !" 12v wires in gasoline ?

Its kind of a requirement. Lift pumps don't work nearly as well as pusher pumps, and for the volume and pressures that fuel injection needs its the only practical solution. One thing that does sort of amaze me about those pumps is just how simplistic the electrical connection is. Seems like it ought to be a little more positive than a simple push-on connector. Maybe something with a latch or whatever to reduce risk of it falling off, though I've not really heard of people having problems with them coming undone.

Maybe its an oxygen free vacuum in there when it's all sealed up, like space ? :scratch2: Makes no sense to me why they wouldn't blow occasionally.

Good old ethanol .

Got to do something with all that corn.

So far so good, still running smooth.

Well, same problems have returned and seems I've gotten 259,000 out of a 3.0 that shouldn't have gone that far. I'm babying it along and deciding when I'm going to buy heads and pull it in the garage.

Ford TSB 05-26-3 2004-2006 Ranger

I have a couple thoughts.

First, do you have a code scanner that reads data that may not be throwing a code? If not, go on amazon and look up "elm327" It is a small inexpensive device that communicates with your computer and transmits to a smart device via Bluetooth. I am using the Torque pro app on an android tablet. The elm327 and app set me back less than $25. It can read essentially every bit of data the computer gets. I am using mine to watch individual misfire counts on my 07 Expedition that are causing drivability issues but not throwing a CEL.

Second, pick up a tool called a HEI spark tester for around $10-15 They look like a spark plug and you put it on the end of your wire and clamp it to a ground. With all the plastic these days I recommend using a jumper cable and grounding it at the battery. It requires a very high voltage to bridge the gap effectively stress testing your coil and wire. If there is any breakdown in one of those components, you will not get a spark. If you do get a spark, you can pretty much assure that the coil and wires are good. Just be sure to pull the fuse for the fuel pump, you don't want to dump fuel down the cylinder you are testing.

Third, I am sure you probably have done this, but check your spark plugs for correct gap, carbon tracks that could ground it out, color that may indicate how the cylinder is running.

I had a 95 Ranger 3.0 5spd for 13 years and put 275k miles on it. In my case I had a wife and 3 little kids at home, and a 105mi daily round trip. I needed reliable turn the key and go, too many things were wearing out and it was beginning to require too much of my time, so I got rid of it for almost nothing, sometimes I wish I had kept it to tinker but I don't really have room. The 3.0 Vulcan is a tough engine (though a bit anemic) and it is not unusual to exceed 300k. Good luck, hope you figure it out!

try another filter and injector cleaner ..
just done one here . was a diesel but had same symptoms .first filter worked for a couple of months . now waiting to see how long it lasts this time .. if it fails same i might just pull the pump out of the tank and give it a good clean in the tank .

Fuel pressure is good, injectors test out good, ran two bottles of Techron through it, wires are new Motocraft, I've got plugs here on the counter..............

It's cylinder #2 that keeps throwing code. Lots of tapping now when I accelerate, not just clattering. Got the dead cylinder flashing light twice.

Beatnik said:

Fuel pressure is good, injectors test out good, ran two bottles of Techron through it, wires are new Motocraft, I've got plugs here on the counter..............

It's cylinder #2 that keeps throwing code. Lots of tapping now when I accelerate, not just clattering. Got the dead cylinder flashing light twice.

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Not familiar with your engine....is it the "coil-on-plug" type of ignition ?

I had problems with the coil connectors on a Sentra, gave me a bad coil code. Cleaning and tightening the connector receptacle sleeves solved it.

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Coil pack on this one. 04-06 vulcan heads are defective, I'm pretty sure that's what i have going on. Valve recession from soft crap heads.