Marantz 2325 restore

catttman

AK Member
My New project
At first she was stuck ON- repaired the power switch till new one is delivered

Starting with the Power Supply Looking for point of interest other than Capacitor's
 

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I always replace the TO-220 voltage regulator transistors with On Semi MJE15030, replace the 5 Watt resistor with a new part, leaving the leads long so that it is 'high and in the clear' to keep heat away from the other components.
I always replace the protection relay, too.

Tom
 

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on each amp board there is a tantalum cap that can be replaced along with VD1122's use 1N4148's.
 
Newbie here, sorry if I jacked your thread. I just bought a 2325 and would like to go through it also. I've seen a "kit" with capacitors, etc. If I'm going to do this I'd like to do a nice job and try not to skimp. Any suggestions on how to proceed?
 
Do some study here on AK/Marantz. There are many rebuild threads and discussions on what caps to use and known crummy parts. Individual boards often fit multiple models so look at threads on other models too. Some excellent suggestions were posted by a couple of great techs already in this thread! One thing you may find is that the kit you found has some good parts in it and some not so good parts in it. Best wishes and don't be afraid to ask specific questions as you go along! :yes:
 
I keep bumping in to these receivers did not work at all until super cleaned the controls and amp connectors mickey moused the switch till the replacement arrives
I Ordered almost all the parts // I found 5 different lists to go off of lol
this must be the most popular receiver lots of info and I printed all I could find and BIG V,s too nice job there! going to copy his job ... I like it

I have one little problem with the tuner ... it works just fine but every once in a while the fm radio cuts off like the antenna wire was removed for a second or a minute or so then back on? I looked for lose grounds got me may be after the rebuild it will stop
looks like a easy one to take apart too :)
thanks ..... any advise on the radio cutting off - on? for a sec.

FIXED
 
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Monitor the DC power supply to see if it drops out.

BTW, my last post about doing your homework was advice for 'shelbygt', I wasn't lecturing you!!
 
Monitor the DC power supply to see if it drops out.

BTW, my last post about doing your homework was advice for 'shelbygt', I wasn't lecturing you!!


FM and AM both looks like there are both getting low power
the FM STEREO light starts out very dim has it warms up starts getting a little brighter and sometimes now the radio will kick on full meter and play correctly

I Need to know on the power supply board which pins feed the radio
what should they be the radio act like its under powered
I think it has 2 feeds? IF and front end like the 4230 has

thanks
 
I used the mur1620 to-220 packages on my power supply board, the 131B being common cathode IIRC also, same pinouts. I just like the MUR' cause they have a common anode on as well. These use the Omron LY-02 variant as well.
attachment.php


heres a link to a 2325 I just did. Have fun their great units to work on, really come apart easily.


BTW is the whole tuning functioning when it does that, or just FM or AM?

Both AM-FM are getting very low to almost no signal , just like they are getting low voltage not powered up all the way
after a while when warmed both start to pop on then ok
if I turn the radio off let her cool then at back to start no signal till she warms up ... Power supply must be it ?
any ideas
I going to measure all the pins and report back
thank you
 
Pins 804 and 805 should give you 35vdc. The white round r809 is the adjustment pod.

You may be dealing with the Muting feature. You shouldn't have to adjust the pods unless they were adjusted before you. check your muting adjustment on the back side .
 
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OK I THINK I HAVE SOME THING

HERE IT IS at cold J-807 = 3v let it warm up @ 10 min. 13v
J- 805 = 35v
J-806= 19v
J- 807 = 3v cold them ramps up slowly to @13v
*So which component feeds J-807 ?*

the power supply does need done one large cap is growing out of it cover on the P800 board

Thank up I think I see the light *J=807*
THANKS !!!!
 
the power supply does need done one large cap is growing out of it cover on the P800 board.

That doesn't sound good. Did you recap this board.??? Cap orientation comes to mind. If you have it in backwards, it' could pop in your face.

j807 goes to your mode switch.

What kind of voltages are you getting on E/B/C of H801?
 
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I am currently working on my 2325. It's still in the work. Pin J807 will give 14v. That powers the tuner. If it fluctuates, H801 may be faulty. If you are using original 2SD331, those are a bit small. Catrafter recommends replacing it with MJE15030 or currently with a Suffix "G" (MJE15030G). I use the same transistor as Cat recommends in my current 2325 project. I also had the same issue in a couple of my Pioneers.
 
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Digital Docs has a schematic on your unit. Without it, you will be lost.
As we all know, fixing the known wrongs like that cap, is the first place to start.
When you get that fixed, let us know if it works:D
 
Yup, I'm with John, a recap of the board is a good idea. the +13 supply indeed supplies both the AM and the FM and if low would cause issues, it runs +12 ish to +14 ish in all units. Replace the speaker relay while you're at it - always a good idea!
 
I used the mur1620 to-220 packages on my power supply board, the 131B being common cathode IIRC also, same pinouts. I just like the MUR' cause they have a common anode on as well. These use the Omron LY-02 variant as well.
attachment.php


heres a link to a 2325 I just did. Have fun their great units to work on, really come apart easily.


BTW is the whole tuning functioning when it does that, or just FM or AM?

To avoid any confusion, those MUR devices are rectifiers. The voltage regulator transistors are the ones on the black heat sink.

Tom
 
To avoid any confusion, those MUR devices are rectifiers. The voltage regulator transistors are the ones on the black heat sink.

Tom

thanks all items ordered
863-MJE15030G


Mfr. #: MJE15030G
Desc.: Transistors Bipolar - BJT8A 150V

863-MUR1620CTRG


Mfr. #: MUR1620CTRG
Desc.: Rectifiers200V 16A UltraFast

and more!!!

thanks all
 
OK
the 2325 is all "warmed up" and working correctly now

all voltages are as warmed up state J807=13 (when cold =3v)
H-801 as is warmed-up = E/13.2 B/13.7 C/31.2 volts

thanks
 
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