Worth repairing a CR-2020?

One new update on it.

I have upgraded it alittlebit with Elna Silmic II in the signal path. Sounds even more wonderful now. Wish it wouldnt be so damm natural in the sound...

What voltages does the 18.000uF capacitors have to be? I may have a couple of nice 20.000uF+ capacitors but they are probably 70 or 63V. 63V is to low but what about 70v? I know the originals are 71v but does it make a diffrence?
 
71 vs 70

The 70V caps should be fine; check the actual capacitance on them though. I ended up using some 22,000uF caps that measured 19,000uF
 
B+ and B- is +/- 50 vdc. coming right off the two main filters. May be a little higher or lower depending on the AC line voltage. ie. 117-127vac or whatever. Sweden 220-240vac or whatever.
 
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I dont have anything to check the uF but some of the ones he has are 28.000uF and 33.000uF. Only problem is that they are Rifa PEH 169 and 129 so they are way to big. I am hoping he got some smaller ones that actually fits.

Which capacitor series is the best for the big powersupply caps? Rifa PEH169,129 and 200 are great accoring to alot of people but they are quite big (exept from 200) but is there any other once that is recommended?
 
There wont be any new capacitors. He doesnt have any that fits.
If i need new ones i will buy the PEH200 series but at the moment they are to expensive if they wont do any good replacing the original ones.
 
Unfortunally the on/off switch is broken. One day it didn't turn turn on. Measured that the on/off switch didn't switch to on. Took it apart and well,things flew all over the house. I found some parts but i couldn't repair it. So now i am on a treasure hunt for a working one. The radio museum got a few so maybe i can make one fit in some way. Although a original would be the best so i am really hoping someone got a spare. I would of course pay for it.
 
If you have read the service bulletins you know that switch was not up to the task anyway. It looked to me that Yamaha had just applied their lever to a fairly standard looking switch. I'd bet you could do the same by making a metal bracket :)
 
I've read that but i hoped i wouldn't be having that problem. The radio museum has got a large number on/off switches so maybe i can make one fit. I'm gonna need to take out the lever and the bracket so i can figure out something.
 
Yea, sure! Any properly rated switch will do.

There is no magic here just execute the service bulletin so that the new switch does not undergo undue stress :)
 
It works beautifully with the micro switch. I bought a different one that only needs 0.25 Newton instead of the 0.6 that the one i linked to needs. Didn't know how much newton the little lever could handle but 1 Newton would probably be max.

I removed the whole on/off ''system'' from the amplifier and removed the actual switch. After a little cleaning and greasing i glued the micro switch in place and used a screw to extend the little plastic arm so it would reach to the micro switch. Then i soldered the new Y2 capacitor and fitted it all. Now it clicks beautifully.
I am extremely pleased with the way it turned out. But i think the pictures will tell for them selves.
 

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I opened it to look through everything to see if something is damaged. All looked fine except C817-220uF 63V. That cap was near to explode. I replaced it again and so far so good. I hope the cap was a bad one.

I noticed something in the phono section. C317/318 is 2.2uF 25V acording to the schematic but if you look in the service manual one of them is 2.2 and the other 22. (acording to the pictures) Okay, maybe they missed the dot but in my CR-2020 one of them is 1uF and the other 2.2. Now, i think i missed replacing them since they are the originals so i haven't put them there. Replace both with 2.2uF instead? Anyone else got this ''problem''?
 
I've managed to misplace the four screws that holds the wooden cover so could somebody take a couple of pictures of how they look like? They may have ended up in my screw box but there are over 10000 screws to look through.
 
Aren't they gold bolts with square metal washers that dig into the case, just redid one 2 weeks ago here. There were more than 4 iirc.
 
large(ish) philips machine screws - hardware store will have suitable replacements if you can't find them. The square washers with teeth will be harder to replace... Here's a couple pictures.



e2e5avud.jpg


y5e9uty3.jpg
 
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If our friend is in Sweden it will be like the CR-n40 series, four screws two to a side. European covers were different than NorAm. IIRC they are about a 10/24 maybe 5/8" long
 
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