Rewiring a Rega RB301

hirscwi

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I'm about to embark on rewiring an RB301 and have been trying to find any guidance here on AK - but haven't been successful. Is there a diagram around? Specifically I'm wondering about the rubber plug at the cartridge end of the arm - does it snap out? It appears that the internal wires are small gauge than the wires protruding from the cartridge end, with the tags on them. If anyone has guidance or can point me to a thread I would greatly appreciate it
 
The rubber pug has a small plastic dowel in the middle that you can push out so the rubber boot comes out easily.
The wires are terminated in the boot, thin 33g to aprox 28g wire, and also glued in so very hard to remove successfully. Probably the hardest part of the job. I've give up trying to salvage the boot and make my own.
There's very little room to tread the wire up the arm where it turns into the tube on the 301 and 300 arms, if you screw up it may lead to dismantlement the arm. No fun.

I've done dozen of Rega arms and the 301 is probably the hardest, but the wire these lower Rega arms come with is pure crap so well worth the effort.

What type of wire are you planing on using to rewire the arm?
 
Important part of the rewire is to get one full complete length from cartridge tags to RCA's without any breaks in the wire. Also proper shielding to avoid hum transmission into the wire.
 
Thanks, very good information. How are you making the rubber plug/boot?

I'm planning to use Cardas litz wire. I'm thinking I may use that wire from the cartridge clips all the way to the RCA plugs, without any joints, if I can manage it. What do you think?

I'm really glad to learn that it's worth the effort even though it isn't not completely easy.

The rubber pug has a small plastic dowel in the middle that you can push out so the rubber boot comes out easily.
The wires are terminated in the boot, thin 33g to aprox 28g wire, and also glued in so very hard to remove successfully. Probably the hardest part of the job. I've give up trying to salvage the boot and make my own.
There's very little room to tread the wire up the arm where it turns into the tube on the 301 and 300 arms, if you screw up it may lead to dismantlement the arm. No fun.

I've done dozen of Rega arms and the 301 is probably the hardest, but the wire these lower Rega arms come with is pure crap so well worth the effort.

What type of wire are you planing on using to rewire the arm?
 
How does Rega treat the turntable ground? I know there's no separate ground wire so does the ground connect to the ground side of the RCA plugs?
 
I drill a small hole for wire penetration in the plug, removing the existing solder terminals.

Cardas is also the wire I use, they make two different thicknesses, you will want the 7 strand not the 11 strand. You need to get the shielded cable and strip the first 12" that goes into the arm.

The ground on the Rega is terminated into one of the grounds of the RCA's, left channel if I remember right. I always add a separate ground.

 
Excellent information and photo. Very neat work. I've been considering buying my wire from Needle Doctor - do you have another source (I think their wire is 11 strand?). Good idea to add a separate ground - seems like a good way to avoid a ground loop. I'm excited to start this project.

BTW, do you use a guitar string to feed the wire since it's coming from the bearing end?
 
Regarding the grounding (of the TT chassis and arm), probably (only) one of the patch (interconnect) cables was used. You can use either, but it would be better if you could which one was originally used,
Remember, use only one, as more than one structure to equipment ground will be a ground loop,
 
Excellent information and photo. Very neat work. I've been considering buying my wire from Needle Doctor - do you have another source (I think their wire is 11 strand?). Good idea to add a separate ground - seems like a good way to avoid a ground loop. I'm excited to start this project.

BTW, do you use a guitar string to feed the wire since it's coming from the bearing end?

I get my wire from KAB, Kevin's the best. 11 strand is too stiff and may bind in the arm. Also his prices are lower. He also has RCA's that work real well with the Cardas wire, seem in the pic above, 3.5mm Art pop RCA's @ $12 pair.

I use a single core 28g wire as a pull wire.
 
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Excellent information. I agree that Kevin is a good guy - very helpful and extremely knowledgeable. I'll order later today if I can do it online or tomorrow by phone...

I get my wire from KAB, Kevin's the best. 11 strand is too stiff and may bind in the arm. Also his prices are lower. He also has RCA's that work real well with the Cardas wire, seem in the pic above, 3.5mm Art pop RCA's @ $12 pair.

I use a single core 28g wire as a pull wire.
 
I normally use a 5' run of wire, 1' in the arm and 4' from the arm to the RCA's.

I might use shorter length because I have an outboard CNC or HQMC DIY phono section (sits next to table). But it might be wise to use a longer cable for the future. Good thought. I've been on KAB's website trying to decipher which cableto purchase - he's got a lot of choices.
 
Cardas Phono Cable. $7.50 per ft.

ART POP RCA Connectors. 3.5mm $12.00 pair

In the KAB cables section
 
Cardas Phono Cable. $7.50 per ft.

ART POP RCA Connectors. 3.5mm $12.00 pair

In the KAB cables section

Thanks, using your help, I found them. Ordered them last night and can't wait to jump into this. I'm expecting a nice improvement in the arm. In fact, I will probably tackle the RB303 on my RP6 if I'm successful - it seems to suffer from the same woes.
 
One more ground question: In this photo, did you add another sheath or jacket over the cable in order to include the ground wire with the phono cable (I think the one I ordered has only 4 conductors, plus shield) - or is the ground wire connected to the shield.

 
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