110 or 120? Does it matter?

Susurus

Resolution:6.62×10^-34
---If this has been covered before, just a link is great.

110 or 120? Does it matter at all? Best sound quality over any other considerations...

Got two M-4's. I know lucky dog... :yes:

One has the 110/120/240 round switch in the back. Other one doesn't. So...I want them to match...

And no I won't bridge them (hate bridging). Use an active bi-amping setup through an Ashly 4001. Although I seem to have fairly stable USA grid-juice from local-ish hydoelec and nuke sources (well nothing that makes me consider a full isolation transformer anyway...).

Might try the funny lopsided pseudomonoblock idea too...since I can, why not?...Each channel gets one side of each amp...

Really shrink speaker wire length that way...nice for DF!
 
Last edited:
Got two M-4's. I know lucky dog...
I think I have four,three for sure anyways..:scratch2:
Measure your wall AC voltage and select the closest one. Probably be 120 vac.
 
The difference will be insignificant if you adjust the +/- 65 vdc rail voltage in the service manual.
 
---If this has been covered before, just a link is great.

110 or 120? Does it matter at all? Best sound quality over any other considerations...

Got two M-4's. I know lucky dog... :yes:

One has the 110/120/240 round switch in the back. Other one doesn't. So...I want them to match...

And no I won't bridge them (hate bridging). Use an active bi-amping setup through an Ashly 4001. Although I seem to have fairly stable USA grid-juice from local-ish hydoelec and nuke sources (well nothing that makes me consider a full isolation transformer anyway...).

Might try the funny lopsided pseudomonoblock idea too...since I can, why not?...Each channel gets one side of each amp...

Really shrink speaker wire length that way...nice for DF!

I dunno what you have, but my voltage runs about 120-122 on average.
 
Go for the 120 VAC. However, measuring the voltage out of the wall is pointless. It can change by several volts in a moment, from a low as 100 to 125 VAC. It is the peak to peak value that one should be worried about, that is what makes things go "PUFF" when you are not paying attention and do not have proper line protection. Voltage varies depending on demand, which depends on where you live. You would not believe how many UPS systems I would loose due to our commerical power companies. What is worse, they are a real treat to repair. I worked for a high tech security firm where varying line voltages were unacceptable, needless to say, I did a lot of repairs on UPS systems.
 
Go for the 120 VAC. However, measuring the voltage out of the wall is pointless. It can change by several volts in a moment, from a low as 100 to 125 VAC..
If you have AC line voltage dropping to 100V in the US, there is definitely a problem somewhere. I had devices randomly cutting off and resetting when the AC would drop to 105-108V here, until I finally figured out one side of my AC coming into the house was low (the other side was 118-121V at the time). The power company replaced the transformer out on the pole behind the house which fixed it.
 
Back
Top Bottom