TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

No circuitry on "audiobah" to prevent shut down pop.

Too many reporting issues with Sure3116 to call it well built IMHO
 
No circuitry on "audiobah" to prevent shut down pop.

Too many reporting issues with Sure3116 to call it well built IMHO

Thanks, since I haven't received the audiobah board I did not know about the shut down pop . . . only that it is advertised as "the only one with speaker protection". And I certainly can't comment on reliability of Sure 3116 as I haven't owned it long. However, it does look solid and was well packed in a custom box with the board in an anti-static bag. And knock on wood, no problems yet :)

Regards,
Roger
 
Lots of discussion on this thread and there is larger one one diyaudio. It only takes two weeks to read through all of them if you skim over the stuff you aren't interested in or like me . . . don't understand :)

Have done that, I am happy to offer my limited perspective.

1) The "red and blue/black" boards offer more opportunities for modding.
2) The "green" audiobah board has some built-in mods, most significantly one that stops speaker "pop" on start up and shut down (an issue with boards listed above). I ordered one 39 days ago and it still has not left China. So expect a long wait.
3) The Sure board is well built and arrived in 10 days. It is plug and play, replete with speaker terminals, power connector (5.5 mm), and RCA inputs. Using the 6n3 tube pre I don't get speaker pop on start up but have a light pop on shut down.

There are other boards available but those are the three most discussed.

This is my first tube preamp, so I have nothing to compare. It is the YuanJing 6N3+6Z4 model. It comes with power transformer and plastic frame that looks OK plus it has volume control that is very useful as the "green" and Sure boards don't have one. One model they offer has a larger plastic frame that also supports the transformer. I had to build an enclosure to house mine.

HTH,
Roger

Thank you
 
What are the issues with the Sure3116? I have not heard of anything...

I had a problem with one. To wit: there is a faulty capacitor on it... somewhere. I think it's in the bootstrap circuitry, as the amp will not start up. The capacitors are all SMT devices, and as such I'm not confident doing surgery to replace the cap. However, Sure was VERY good to deal with, and they promptly sent out a replacement amp on their dime (as they should have), free shipping, no return of the old amp necessary.

The second amp was fine with no problem.
 
2) The "green" audiobah board has some built-in mods, most significantly one that stops speaker "pop" on start up and shut down (an issue with boards listed above). I ordered one 39 days ago and it still has not left China. So expect a long wait.

HTH,
Roger

I ordered mine August 26th and it just arrived in the US yesterday.
 
The "green" audiobah board has some built-in mods, most significantly one that stops speaker "pop" on start up and shut down (an issue with boards listed above). I ordered one 39 days ago and it still has not left China. So expect a long wait.


I assume you bought it from Ebay and paid with Paypal. I would not pass 45 days to open a case if you feel you need to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I assume you bought it from Ebay and paid with Paypal. I would not pass 45 days to open a case if you feel you need to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well the audiobah arrived today!
Exactly 40 days after I ordered it. I received no shipping/tracking info prior to arrival despite prior email queries. The board was shipped in soft pack with bubble wrap, thin foam layer, and a plastic bag. The only printed info on the board is + and - and no "literature" is included. Also, unlike the Sure, it has no "through board" lands. The Sure was clearly marked for power, speaker, and input channels with detailed info on dimensions and hole spacing. Of course, the audiobah is easy to figure out as it has two speaker terminal blocks, one terminal block for input (same terminal block as speakers), and three-pin connector for power.

I look forward to seeing how the audiobah performs but need to secure a power supply and 3-pin connector. The audiobah is smaller (2.5"x2.5") than the Sure and the lack of preinstalled connectors affords more flexibility for building an enclosure.

Roger
 
Last edited:
Sure has this advertised:Comprehensive click-and-pop reduction circuitry minimizes noise coming into and out of shutdown or mute.

I have read about dogs being scared, and comments on loudest pop on shut down of all 3116 boards. This could indicate that Sure's circuitry isn't working properly and actually adds pop.
 
On both my sure boards the shutdown pop is audible, but at a low level. If I'm repeatedly cycling the power on and off, that's when the pop gets loud. Although it may well be my other amp to.
 
On both my sure boards the shutdown pop is audible, but at a low level. If I'm repeatedly cycling the power on and off, that's when the pop gets loud. Although it may well be my other amp to.

Ditto . . . no pop on startup and barely noticeable on shutdown :yes:

Roger
 
I don't have the Sure TPA 3116, but I do have the NEW TPA 3110 2X15 board which is a similar board, and there is absolutely no turn on or turn off pop. I do get a turn off pop with my YJ blue/black modded boards, but can eliminate it completely by turning the volume pot to 0.

I just added 4 more of the Panasonic 330uf 25v SEPF OSCONS to my TPA 3110 board that I had only replaced 4 previously, and left 4 open. The bass is
now better than my 3116 boards! Even with all the mods I have done to the 3116 boards which have ALL improved SQ, the new Sure TPA 3110 is my favorite amp.

QhATygWl.jpg
 
I just received my Audiobah green board today.
I'm a bit confused about the hookup configuration: Am I assuming correctly that the RCA plug wiring uses a common ground for both L & R channels? I plan to remove the white plug and solder directly to the board.
 
I just received my Audiobah green board today.
I'm a bit confused about the hookup configuration: Am I assuming correctly that the RCA plug wiring uses a common ground for both L & R channels? I plan to remove the white plug and solder directly to the board.

Yes, you are correct :yes:
I originally assumed the 3-pin connector was for power :no:

The center pin is ground. You can use a male molex connector from a computer fan if you happen to have one. Yuan Jing also sells a set wired with RCA plugs for $1.50. Of course, there is shipping and the wait. Soldering directly is the logical choice but I don't trust my skills on leads that small!

Good luck,
Roger
 
Yes, you are correct :yes:
I originally assumed the 3-pin connector was for power :no:

The center pin is ground. You can use a male molex connector from a computer fan if you happen to have one. Yuan Jing also sells a set wired with RCA plugs for $1.50. Of course, there is shipping and the wait. Soldering directly is the logical choice but I don't trust my skills on leads that small!

Good luck,
Roger

Yeah...I may have toasted the board already trying to desolder the connector....
I didn't have time to finish the project last night so I won't know til this evening.
 
:cool:
 

Attachments

  • BEFORE.jpg
    BEFORE.jpg
    125.1 KB · Views: 100
  • AFTER.jpg
    AFTER.jpg
    145 KB · Views: 96
  • KUTIJA01.jpg
    KUTIJA01.jpg
    205.8 KB · Views: 129
  • KUTIJA02.jpg
    KUTIJA02.jpg
    157.8 KB · Views: 101
Yeah...I may have toasted the board already trying to desolder the connector....
I didn't have time to finish the project last night so I won't know til this evening.

Damn! I hope not.
I also read about being careful when mounting the board to metal. Apparently the four mounting holes are not isolated. So mount to nonconducting material, use plastic standoffs, or insert rubber/plastic washers.

Roger
 
Damn! I hope not.
I also read about being careful when mounting the board to metal. Apparently the four mounting holes are not isolated. So mount to nonconducting material, use plastic standoffs, or insert rubber/plastic washers.

Roger

Yeah I hope not too. I'm worried that I got things too hot when I was trying to remove that molex connector.
I hope to get a chance to mess with it some tonight and find out if all is well.
 
Back
Top Bottom