CA-1010 speaker relay, or...?

OvenMaster

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I got my CA-1010 used in 2005.

In 2008, the right channel started dropping out at low volumes. The volume was scratchy, but restored with an occasional burst of higher volume. I replaced the original Panasonic protection relay with a new Potter & Brumfeld unit, as well as spray cleaned the volume pots.

Problem solved... for two years. In 2010, right channel dropout at low volume started again, so I replaced the P&B with an Omron, and cleaned the volume pots again.

May 2014, I notice right channel dropout and scratchy volume control again at low volumes. I shot the volume pots with cleaner and it went away for a week.

Paying closer attention, now I (finally) notice that the volume dropout and scratchy pot problems vanish after about a half hour of amp use with the volume knob at at least 8 o'clock. After that half hour, I can play the amp as quietly as I wish and the right channel will not drop out and the volume control is scratch-free.

What am I looking at here? A cold solder joint anywhere between the output stages and the speaker terminals that tightens up with warmed-up components? A microscopic crack in a PC board trace that closes up with heat? I'm sick of replacing relays and spraying pots.
 
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I got my CA-1010 used in 2005.

In 2008, the right channel started dropping out at low volumes. The volume was scratchy, but restored with an occasional burst of higher volume. I replaced the original Panasonic protection relay with a new Potter & Brumfeld unit, as well as spray cleaned the volume pots.

Problem solved... for two years. In 2010, right channel dropout at low volume started again, so I replaced the P&B with an Omron, and cleaned the volume pots again.

May 2014, I notice right channel dropout and scratchy volume control again at low volumes. I shot the volume pots with cleaner and it went away for a week.

Paying closer attention, now I (finally) notice that the volume dropout and scratchy pot problems vanish after about a half hour of amp use with the volume knob at at least 8 o'clock. After that half hour, I can play the amp as quietly as I wish and the right channel will not drop out and the volume control is scratch-free.

What am I looking at here? A cold solder joint anywhere between the output stages and the speaker terminals that tightens up with warmed-up components? A microscopic crack in a PC board trace that closes up with heat? I'm sick of replacing relays and spraying pots.
Have you tried deox-it on the coupler switch on the rear panel ? How about the speaker select switch ?
 
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Have you tried deox-it on the coupler switch on the rear panel ? How about the speaker select switch ?
:yes::thmbsp: I do them on mine every so often to prevent this issue, but it does tend to creep in anyway. Also the muting switch on the front can be a source of nuisance.
 
1. Coupler switch, no. If memory serves me correctly, I have to do a bit of disassembly to the rear panel to get at it. Must dig up my service manual.
2. Speaker select switch? Yes. Easy to get at and sprayed.
3. Mute switch? I spritzed it as best I could, there being but one tiny opening to get the tip of the spray can tube onto it. I'll have to try to get more into it. All the lever switches on the front panel that are mounted to PC boards seem almost sealed.

Thanks, guys. :)

Tom
 
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Update:

One frozen Phillips screw kept me from removing the rear panel to gain access to the coupler switch, but a long tube on the contact cleaner spray can gave me a fine workaround.

I did my best to spray cleaner into each of the three tiny openings on the mute switch; I hope it is enough.

I re-sprayed the speaker selector switch contacts and the volume and balance pots.

A little voice told me to check the screws that mount the "Power Supply Circuit Board" (the one with the protection relay) to the frame for tightness. Lo and behold, all were loose. One of them leads to a trace on the board for grounding. Hm. :scratch2:

Now to see what happens after maybe a week's time. I'll be back.
 
Okay, that spray job lasted 48 hours. Right channel cuts out at low volumes and needs a burst of higher volume to play properly (Very annoying when using headphones...) until everything's warmed up for about 30 minutes or so.

Anything else I can do? There's nothing else to spray. I hate the idea of yet another relay swap.
 
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