KA-828 info?

blhagstrom

blhagstrom

Mad Scientist, fixer.
Just picked up a KA-828. Appears to power up.
I can't find any information on it except it is from about 1985.
I have developed a new interest in the older Kenwoods after getting a few nice ones. (KM-209 and KA-405).

Does anyone know the specs on the KA-828. I see an 8 amp fuse in there. and she's heavy! Both tell me RAWK!

Help?

Thanks
 
Rawks

Well the KA-828 is not BPC. Internally fairly beefy. The back is labeled 6A but internally it has a new label at 8A. She RAWKS! In small print above the "window" it says "Dynamic Linear Drive". Seems to mean, "It gets LOUD FAST".

Nice unit except for what ever trick wazoo super feftan display was in the window. That looks like it went up in smoke big time and has been "repaired" with some diodes and a couple of bulbs.

Has an AV/AUX input in front. Nice speaker connectors. MC and MM phono cartridge settings. Solid feel on the knobs and good click on the switches.

Seems a little flat on the tone control for my tastes. An EQ brings it up to snuff for me. Good thing I have a collection of those.

Too bad there is no good info on Kenwood stuff from that period.
 
Is this an international unit? It seems better-quality 80's Kenwood equipment was widely available in Europe, but not in the US.
 
doubt

There is no voltage selector so I assume a US model.
Seems like one of those sleeper things that no one knows about.
She's a rocker.
 
Ah-ha!

Found a service manual and got the specs.

130wpc 8 ohm 20Hz-20KHz with < 0.007% thd
150wpc 8 ohm 1KHz with < 0.001% thd

I knew this puppy was a rocker! I never would have guessed that big.

Keep you eyes open guys, she's a sleeper!
 
Kenwood KA-828 and Basic C-2

picked these up at a yard sale on my way home.

Is there any other info about this integrated other than the manual?

this thing weighs a ton! power supply is ample for sure.
 

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blhagstrom said:
Rawks

Well the KA-828 is not BPC. Internally fairly beefy. The back is labeled 6A but internally it has a new label at 8A. She RAWKS! In small print above the "window" it says "Dynamic Linear Drive". Seems to mean, "It gets LOUD FAST".

Nice unit except for what ever trick wazoo super feftan display was in the window. That looks like it went up in smoke big time and has been "repaired" with some diodes and a couple of bulbs.

Has an AV/AUX input in front. Nice speaker connectors. MC and MM phono cartridge settings. Solid feel on the knobs and good click on the switches.

Seems a little flat on the tone control for my tastes. An EQ brings it up to snuff for me. Good thing I have a collection of those.

Too bad there is no good info on Kenwood stuff from that period.
Click to expand...
I know this is a very old thread, but do you still have this? I have one I am working on that drops a channel after a while. Sounds Great for about 2 hours... Anyways, on the bottom near the transformer is the voltage switch in a "slot" for 120v, 220v, and 240v in case anyone is wondering.
Yes, this thing is a PITA to work on. The Preamp, inputs and RIAA are in the rear and you have to dismantle the rear panel to access them, and deal with spaghetti every which way. Note the speaker relay is obsolete and *NO* replacements are available. I had to build an adapter to replace it with an Omron relay. When this thing works, it does indeed RAWK at 130 WPC. I hope to solve the random issue soon, but it is still sprawled out on the bench so I won't know until it's back together. I'm trying to cover every base, and hit every solder joint before reassembly so it can stay together once and for all. So far I found R76 (100 Ohm, 1W) had been overheated and was reading 136 Ohms out of circuit. It's "brother", R75 was fine spot on at 100 Ohms. BIAS pots will be changed as the one also reads a little high end to end and could be throwing the BIAS off after warming up. The carbon track is failing high just like carbon resistors to..
 
Skywatcher said:
I know this is a very old thread, but do you still have this? I have one I am working on that drops a channel after a while. Sounds Great for about 2 hours... Anyways, on the bottom near the transformer is the voltage switch in a "slot" for 120v, 220v, and 240v in case anyone is wondering.
Yes, this thing is a PITA to work on. The Preamp, inputs and RIAA are in the rear and you have to dismantle the rear panel to access them, and deal with spaghetti every which way. Note the speaker relay is obsolete and *NO* replacements are available. I had to build an adapter to replace it with an Omron relay. When this thing works, it does indeed RAWK at 130 WPC. I hope to solve the random issue soon, but it is still sprawled out on the bench so I won't know until it's back together. I'm trying to cover every base, and hit every solder joint before reassembly so it can stay together once and for all. So far I found R76 (100 Ohm, 1W) had been overheated and was reading 136 Ohms out of circuit. It's "brother", R75 was fine spot on at 100 Ohms. BIAS pots will be changed as the one also reads a little high end to end and could be throwing the BIAS off after warming up. The carbon track is failing high just like carbon resistors to..
Click to expand...

Did you ever get that KA-828 going? I've got one, and all of a sudden it just stopped working. I thought it might be the MUTE button. It just seems dead even though the fuses seek OK.

Was looking for a service-manual but the one on hifiengine doesn't seem to really have the schematic. Looking for service-points if there are any.

Ah... fun with old stereos.

Thanks for your help (anyone).

GB
 
The copy I have is blank from pages 2 thru 7. The 1st page is there, and then the "exploded view". Just blank pages when I try to look at 2-7.

My file-size on Windows10 for that pdf file is (4,300,364).

Any chance I could get your copy? You obviously are looking at something I can't seem to get. Just curious... is your copy a PDF?

By-the-way... I see you're a bass player. I used to play in a band in the 70s that would play (sometimes) in western Wisconsin. Good to see another player out there.
 
i just downloaded the pdf from hifiengine. I didn't do anything special. i'm running linux but doubt that is the problem. file size is 4.3M.

The service manual contains a nice schematic.

If you think your pdf is good but your pdf viewer is not working, maybe you could copy the pdf to a usb and walk over to kinkos (or FedEx Office) and print it out on 14x17 paper. nice and big helps my old and tired eyes. I do this all the time when repairing gear.
 
Thanks for your help rickl. I finally got it working... once you said you were running linux.

When I downloaded (on Windows 10) using Adobe DC... I noticed it was labeled "Secured". Not sure what this means other than it wouldn't allow me to save it as a decent PDF. I tried multiple methods (saved it with PDF995) and other things and finally figured out to open the saved PDF995 file, open with LibreOffice (open source), saved it as a drawing file, and then opened that up and exported it as another PDF file. It finally worked.

Sometimes... Windows & associated software can be a real pain. Makes me wonder if people using Adobe DC on other things run into the same issue.

I'm an old Unix users. I should probably just go to Linux. Then I wouldn't have this fun with Windows 10.

I still might do the 14x17, as 8.5x 11 is quite tiny.

Thanks again.
 
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