R2000 Filter Cap Replacement Advice

QE_Eng

AK Member
Hi,
I was looking for a little insight on filter cap replacement on R2000 receivers.
These units are equipped with 12000uf 100V Nichicons.

Any thoughts on replacement? It appears that I would have to go up or down in capacitance to get voltage rating. I don't know if I can go up in capacitane w/o causing isssues.

Note: I have several of these units that are going through a recap overhaul.
Any input would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Murph
 
Hi,
I was looking for a little insight on filter cap replacement on R2000 receivers.
These units are equipped with 12000uf 100V Nichicons.

Any thoughts on replacement? It appears that I would have to go up or down in capacitance to get voltage rating. I don't know if I can go up in capacitane w/o causing isssues.

Note: I have several of these units that are going through a recap overhaul.
Any input would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Murph

The way that my EE friend with more than 30 years experience in high availability, high up-time, non stop and mission critical equipment explained it to me:

Keep the capacitance the same.

Since the footprints are now smaller feel free to go up in voltage, it's the max voltage rating before the cap smokes, so more is better. I combined all caps with the same capacitance rating and actually went up in volt rating since the footprints were OK.

I used the Nichicon FGs, and one Muse.

Update:

My Bad......Re-read original post

On the filters, yes you can go up in Capacitance. I used Panasonic for these to keep the footprint for the original mounting brackets.

We had to make two cuts on the board to accommodate the snap connectors.

In exact replacement, Digikey had four options

Example
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECE-T2AA123FA/P10653-ND/272793
 
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Thanks Bubo for the reply.
I guess I could parallel capacitors to get to the capacitance. Not much room in there! I will have to see what capacitors I can attain to get capacitance and see how to fit them in the area.

I could probably use a breadboard with stand-offs and have the filters face in. Then, I could run wire down to board.

I could make the mods look pretty clean in this process.

Thanks,
Murph
 
I like how you say several of these units. How did you come by several of a fairly rare and somewhat unreliable unit? Do they all work?
I believe there are some suggested mods for these to deal with excess heat. Good luck with the recapping.
 
These units are complex and not easy to understand what is going on. I learned through AK and circuit analysis.

I had to replace the STK-7120 X-Process in one unit. It took a bit of time to find these modules.

The STK-3156 modules will have large heat sinks off of a RV power inverter. I will cut the heat sink to input onto several units.

Besides, the two receiver units, I have three more in the background. One or two will probaby be donors.

Remarkably, all five power drive units have all good transistors based on analysis/documentation.

I am taking it slow and easy.

Thanks,
Murph
 
OOPs, didn't have my brain engaged, reread your original post.

Yes you can increase capacitance for the main filter caps. Don't do it for the rest of them.

My bad.

On the MX 600 I just did, with supervision so I didn't smoke myself or the board, I went up approx 20-30% on the main filter caps. I was trying to keep the footprint so the original brackets would fit the caps.
 
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Aspen,
I am sorry I did not fully answer your questions. I picked all these units off of web over a period of one year.

I guess I like the "underdog" so I picked them up for reasonable prices. I had a friend hook one of these units up to a set of AR Classic 30s a long time ago and never forgot about it.

Once I rebuild one unit, it will get hooked up to a set of AR Classic 30s after I commission on some "less expensive" speakers. The AR Classic 30s will be restored over the next several months.

I have older CRs in my herd. Wanted to start with a tough one first. I started out in electronics when I was in my 20s. Moved over to Chemical/Process Engineering and got away from electronics.

Now, I am in my 50s and am rebuilding my knowledge and capability back with respect to vintage units. I look to retire in 10 years and repair electronics on the side.

Thanks,
Murph
 
Aspen,
I am sorry I did not fully answer your questions. I picked all these units off of web over a period of one year.

I guess I like the "underdog" so I picked them up for reasonable prices. I had a friend hook one of these units up to a set of AR Classic 30s a long time ago and never forgot about it.

Once I rebuild one unit, it will get hooked up to a set of AR Classic 30s after I commission on some "less expensive" speakers. The AR Classic 30s will be restored over the next several months.

I have older CRs in my herd. Wanted to start with a tough one first. I started out in electronics when I was in my 20s. Moved over to Chemical/Process Engineering and got away from electronics.

Now, I am in my 50s and am rebuilding my knowledge and capability back with respect to vintage units. I look to retire in 10 years and repair electronics on the side.

Thanks,
Murph
Cool, I would love to do the same but have no technical background. I have a desire for the big R series even if they are trouble. I bought my R900 at 17, no way could afford the R2000 on McDonald's wages. Let us know how you make out.
 
Cool, I would love to do the same but have no technical background. I have a desire for the big R series even if they are trouble. I bought my R900 at 17, no way could afford the R2000 on McDonald's wages. Let us know how you make out.

I have a R-2000, R-1000, R-900 and first receiver was a R-700 I no longer have it kept blowing STKs but I drove it hard. The pre amp in R-1000 and R-2000 bring out all the detail in any music and way better than R-900. I use my R-2000 as pre now for a MC-2500 500WPC and also the R-2000 amp to drive outdoor pool area speakers. The phono stage is also great. I love all the choices with controls for its pre and internal amp and able to drive 3 speaker combinations and spatial expander on some sources.

For a while I used Amp in R-1000 to drive Mcintosh XR19s while R-2000 was pre and amp drove the Mcintosh XRT20s. They both would get hot but yes great sound. I eventually went to Yamaha PC-2602 amp to drive both sets of Mcintosh speakers on combined load even betterdetailed sound and more dampening factor with R-2000 as just pre. Then picked up the big MC-2500 which handles both big speakers best though I must admit the PC2602 holds its own in sound quality though a slight bit edgier up top.

Time to repurpose the R-1000, R-900 and PC-2602. Just can't fit R-1000 in bedroom audio cabinet. I hate to sell such fine Yamaha's since each had to have overhauls and sound so very nice.

Good luck with R-2000s. The big caps I would not replace unless leaking or not to spec.
 
Good insight Velocityboat,
I got some bad filter caps on a couple of these units. It would not be feasible to replace these expensive caps on all the units due to price.
I will only be replacing the filters on two units.
And yes, these units sound pretty good indeed! I am not a big fan of those STKs > hard to figure out and difficult to find!
Thanks,
Murph
 
Hi Murph,
Could you tell us how the restoration went? I've got an R-2000, and the left channel intermittently fades in and out sometimes. Did you experience this with any of your units? One thing I noted was that I could get the left channel to cut back in after engaging the spatial expander function.

Thanks,
Ben
 
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