NS1000m tweeter problem

try1256

Super Member
I rotated the NS1000m's into the main listening room and it has been nice. Tonight, I decided to hook up the AU-517 and give a listen. The highs seemed a bit weak on the right side. Thought it might be a dirty pan pot so I gave it a few brisk rotations, no change. Hooked the CA-810 back up, same thing. Had not noticed it until tonight. I switched positions with the speakers. Followed the speaker. Got out the Deoxit and cleaned the l pads. Highs in the left speaker still not as strong as the right. Tested the tweeter and DC resistance is 7 ohms. Could it be a bad cap in the crossover?
Thanks :D
 
It could be crossover components/caps. The tweeter coil could also be warped and jamming in the gap or damaged.
 
The tweeter is working, not distorted, just seems weaker than the other side. It is most apparent when you pan all the way to one side. When centered it isn't as noticeable, vocal is still in the center, etc, etc. I may try just replacing the cap on the tweeter to see what happens.
 
I could do that, I just hate to unsolder them. I did a little test this morning. Ran a 5k tone through the system. Used my db meter with a small ruler to set the distance. Cut the mid all the way off at the speaker. Panned left and right and checked the level. the left (bad) side was 6-7 db lower in output than the right. I know it may not be exact but it does confirm that tweet output is noticeably lower. I did the same test at 10khz and it wasn't as big of a difference but still different. :scratch2:

Electronor, How are the NS1000m with the CA-2010?
 
They are simply made for each other. Speakers give a natural sound while the CA gives just the right amount of color. Running it in class A will only enhance the experience. :music:
 
Ok, so what does this mean...

I used my db meter in my phone and it confirmed that the tweeter in the L speaker is lower in volume than the R speaker. I used a 5khz tone and rolled off the mid completely to test. I decided to dig a little deeper. Took the crossovers out of both speakers. Ran the tone at 1.01v to the input of the L speaker. Measured at the input of the 2.7uf cap, 1.0v. Measured voltage at the output side of the cap, .72v. Difference .29v. Panned to the R speaker, 1.09v input, .85v out. difference, .24v. Does the 5% difference in the output of the capacitor amount to enough to affect the tweeter output? I have been running the L tweeter @+3db and it seems to be more balanced but still slightly off.
Thanks
 
Swap tweeters. Oh. Someone already mentioned that.

I've heard tales of "fatigued beryllium" whatever that may entail.I don't know about that.Kinda sounds like you need to be on the lookout for a replacement. Just my 2 Kronor.
 
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Swap tweeters. Oh. Someone already mentioned that.

I've heard tales of "fatigued beryllium" whatever that may entail.I don't know about that.Kinda sounds like you need to be on the lookout for a replacement. Just my 2 Kronor.

I hope not, so you don't think it's the tweeter cap? If I swap tweets, does it hurt to put spade connectors on instead of soldering? I know soldering must be better or Yamaha would have put connectors on in the first place. I just hate to risk heating the tweet too much and perhaps causing damage.
 
You could use spades but the connections on the tweeters are very soft. You will easily damage them in that way so soldering is still the best option. Just make it quick and you won't harm them.
Otherwise you can replace the capacitors hoping it will fix the problem. I know that mine were terrible so you will probably need to change them anyways to get the maximum performance out of them.
 
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I hope not, so you don't think it's the tweeter cap? If I swap tweets, does it hurt to put spade connectors on instead of soldering? I know soldering must be better or Yamaha would have put connectors on in the first place. I just hate to risk heating the tweet too much and perhaps causing damage.

A lot easier to swap the tweeter than changing parts in that crossover.BTW those tweets are wired out of phase with the mids and woofs.
 
Well Avionic, you may just have won the prize. Finally got around to the tweeter again. Decided to try the cap first,(mistake). Got a matched set of sonicaps, figured it couldn't hurt. A bit of a PITA to put in but I managed. No change. Ok, swap tweets. When I pulled the tweeter out of the good side, to my surprise, It had a spade lug connector on it. Along with a sticker on the back that states this is an original Yamaha replacement part. Now I bought these speakers used in 1983 or 84. I bought them from a friend and they were fairly new at the time. I can't for the life of me remember replacing the tweeter. I did replace a mid when they were still available from Yamaha, maybe 10 or 12 years ago. I digress. The bad tweeter was still soldered in so I know it was original. I just cut it loose and desoldered the wire left on the connection. Checked the DCr on the good one 6.9 ohms, bad one 5.4 ohms. Hmmm…..
Hooked the good tweet back up to it's original cab, ran a 6k tone at low volume and set the level at the tweeter connection to about .5 vac. Removed the good tweet, put in the bad tweet, .29 vac. Which was almost exactly the same reading I got when the bad tweet was in the original cab. I guess this rules out the crossover and L-pads.

So…. it would seem logical that the tweeter with the lower resistance would allow more voltage to pass through the circuit. Apparently, I am wrong about that. Did I miss something? :scratch2:
 
Keep and eye on Ebay or advertize in BT. Ya got a bad tweeter. BTW Ebay is a gamble.
 
Keep and eye on Ebay or advertize in BT. Ya got a bad tweeter. BTW Ebay is a gamble.

I am very suspicious of ebay. Are you familiar with the ebay seller who puts new voice coils in? I think he might be a member here also.
 
Are you familiar with the ebay seller who puts new voice coils in?

I have no personal experience with Dr. magicmarksy but from what I've heard he's been successfully re-coiling various tweeters/drivers for several years now. Are they as good as original? Who knows but I think if I were in your shoes I'd be tempted to give him a try. IIRC he'll re-coil your existing tweeter or sell you a recoiled one ... but like I said, I have no personal experience with him and I'm hoping I never will because that would mean I blew my tweeter. :yikes: :tears: :D

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I have no personal experience with Dr. magicmarksy but from what I've heard he's been successfully re-coiling various tweeters/drivers for several years now. Are they as good as original? Who knows but I think if I were in your shoes I'd be tempted to give him a try. IIRC he'll re-coil your existing tweeter or sell you a recoiled one ... but like I said, I have no personal experience with him and I'm hoping I never will because that would mean I blew my tweeter. :yikes: :tears: :D

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I contacted him and his price for replacing the voice coil is quite reasonable. I would just like to hear from someone who has used his services before I send off my tweeter and my money. I have blown a tweeter or two in my time and they usually either work or they don't. this one has just lost a good but of level but it still works. I have balance them out using the L pads and reading the voltage to the tweeter with white noise through the system. It sounds fine for right now. One interesting note. I replaced the 2.7 uf cap on the tweeter circuit with a sonicap. When I was balancing the tweeter level, I ran noise first then a 6.5k, 10k and 15k tone and checked the voltage to the tweeters. On the crossover with the sonicap, the higher frequencies came through with more voltage than the original with both set at normal level on the L pad. Whatever is going on with the tweeter seems to be affecting the lower portion of it's range more and the sonicap is passing the higher frequencies better than the original.
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but these tweeters came in matched pairs when originals. If you have a replacement (even though was an original Yamaha replacement) the tweeters were no longer matched. Going further and having only one recoiled or purchase only one that is recoiled, you will continue to have a miss-matched set.

I was in the situation where I needed a set of tweeters. I considered Dr Marski. He is a genius if he can successfully replace those coils...
I also too considered his services. I called him and asked him if the coils he uses are flat wire (similar to the original Yamaha coils) and is he uses any kind of process to match the tweeters. I did not get an answer to either of the two questions. While I admire the gentleman for his skills, I opted out from using his service and went a different route. I ended up purchasing a matched pair of original and matched tweeters from Yahoo Japan.

I hope you solve your issue in a way that makes you happy.
Additional aspect to consider is looking in to the service bulletin for the NS-1000. I was not aware that there was one until recently. Look in to this post (if you are not aware of it already).

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=414957&page=10


Good Luck!
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but these tweeters came in matched pairs when originals. If you have a replacement (even though was an original Yamaha replacement) the tweeters were no longer matched. Going further and having only one recoiled or purchase only one that is recoiled, you will continue to have a miss-matched set.

I was in the situation where I needed a set of tweeters. I considered Dr Marski. He is a genius if he can successfully replace those coils...
I also too considered his services. I called him and asked him if the coils he uses are flat wire (similar to the original Yamaha coils) and is he uses any kind of process to match the tweeters. I did not get an answer to either of the two questions. While I admire the gentleman for his skills, I opted out from using his service and went a different route. I ended up purchasing a matched pair of original and matched tweeters from Yahoo Japan.

I hope you solve your issue in a way that makes you happy.
Additional aspect to consider is looking in to the service bulletin for the NS-1000. I was not aware that there was one until recently. Look in to this post (if you are not aware of it already).

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=414957&page=10


Good Luck!

Thanks for the input. I too am curious as to the voice coil being used for replacement . Do you suppose that the tweeter mismatch due to the replacement could be the root of my problem? I admit that I haven't been using the 1000's for critical listening for a while. Truthfully, I spent at least 25 years not doing any critical listening. They were in my HT set up for quite a while and I didn't notice the tweeter issue. I have only recently put them into full time use in my listening room. The do sound good when balanced.
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but these tweeters came in matched pairs when originals. If you have a replacement (even though was an original Yamaha replacement) the tweeters were no longer matched. Going further and having only one recoiled or purchase only one that is recoiled, you will continue to have a miss-matched set.

I was in the situation where I needed a set of tweeters. I considered Dr Marski. He is a genius if he can successfully replace those coils...
I also too considered his services. I called him and asked him if the coils he uses are flat wire (similar to the original Yamaha coils) and is he uses any kind of process to match the tweeters. I did not get an answer to either of the two questions. While I admire the gentleman for his skills, I opted out from using his service and went a different route. I ended up purchasing a matched pair of original and matched tweeters from Yahoo Japan.

I hope you solve your issue in a way that makes you happy.
Additional aspect to consider is looking in to the service bulletin for the NS-1000. I was not aware that there was one until recently. Look in to this post (if you are not aware of it already).

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=414957&page=10


Good Luck!

Esp given the cost of replacing those tweeters, doing the SB sounds like a smart idea. I believe the max input on NS-1000's is 100W, so buying the lowest rated breaker here would be best, correct?

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/speaker-circuit-breakers/1435

Have you done it yet?

I know someone locally that recapped their crossovers with new film caps and really liked the change. Been thinking about that for mine, but at the very least I should do the SB myself.
 
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