Sansui AU-D11 parts list?

stevo1214

Active Member
Hi all! Does anyone have a parts list for the AU-D11 ? I just got one for a decent price, but it's stuck in the protection mode and in a rusty condition. So I opened up the amp and look around. I found 1 missing 0.22 ohm 5w resistor next to 1 with a broken leg.I wondered where did it go? maybe someone had been in here before. I Hope that's the only problem why it's stuck in protection mode. I also would like to know if any D11 owner ever painted the chassis ? Which color is best to use to get it closely match the original color?

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Thanks in advance!

Steve
 
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Derive your 'parts list' from the parts that are in there now, and the schematic. If there are any particular ones you are in doubt about ask here, those 0.22 ohm 5W ceramic resistors are still available.

Mouser Part number 280-CR5-0.22-RC = 0.22ohm, 5W
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...GAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIOqPMjW%2bxDyGfHREuPmOqa8=

If by 'parts list' you mean a list of replacement electrolytic capacitors - don't even think about it until the missing components are replaced and the fault is rectified.

Congratulations, a great amp in not bad condition. (average to good I would say) :thmbsp:

BTW: the chassis is plated - it does have conductivity problems (which it shouldn't) - but if you paint it with anything those problems will be 10 times worse. I have tried cleaning the chassis of my AU-D11 II (same metal plating) without success - but I am sure as hell not going to paint it.
 
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Thanks John! Since those big filter caps still look quite good,I'm thinking maybe I should at least recap all the small caps and replace the trim pots. Do you know the part number for all the trim pots by any chance? I just want to paint most of the rusty area at least. Right now it just looks nasty to me.
 
Thanks John! Since those big filter caps still look quite good
You are almost certainly right, they last much longer than the small ones.
I'm thinking maybe I should at least recap all the small caps and replace the trim pots. Do you know the part number for all the trim pots by any chance?
Naughty, naughty, - fix the fault FIRST :yes:

As for trimmer part numbers, it is quite a lot of work to find the correct ones and I do not have such a list to hand - maybe someone else does?

I just want to paint most of the rusty area at least. Right now it just looks nasty to me.
The best you can do is rub the rust gently with very fine wire wool, making SURE you do not get ANY broken strands of wire wool, or rust debris in the amplifier - as it will cause short circuits. :nono: Abrasive paper would be ok too (safer/better?), except its much harder to limit the rubbing to a small area.

I just can't emphasise enough that you SHOULD NOT paint any part of the copper plating in the amplifier, please don't do that. :no: If you DO paint it - you will isolate the various panels possibly disrupting ground paths, and be likely to introduce incurable pick-up and hum problems, AND the paint will be very difficult to completely remove afterwards.
 
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I just can't emphasise enough that you SHOULD NOT paint any part of the copper plating in the amplifier, please don't do that. :no: If you DO paint it - you will isolate the various panels possibly disrupting ground paths, and be likely introduce incurable pick-up and hum problems, AND the paint will be very difficult to completely remove afterwards.

Thanks John! that's something new that I just learned. So I guess I have to live with the ugliness of this amp :tears:.
 
Looks original, I assume you have double checked that the capacitors on the back side of the board are directly connected to the topside mounted ones? then yes - that will be ok.

Do check the size of the replacements to ensure that they will fit in the space available, and also do not have an adverse impact on airflow because of their size. If it were me I would fit Panasonic FC, or Nichicon PM in there. ;) (in fact, all the big pale blue ones in the pic).

BTW: do clean the corrosion off those 3 pin connectors on the edge of that board :yes: (I use 'Silver Dip' if it is that bad - paint it on with an artists brush - then rinse thoroughly with plain water.) but DeOxit 100 would do as well. (don't forget to do the plug on connectors).
 
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Thanks John! Yes those 4 caps are connected and I'll clean those pins and connectors. BTW do you think I can replace the relay with the Omron MY4-02? since I have a few of them.
 
Not sure what the relay type is for the AU-D11 - many here will almost certainly have replaced them before, so someone will know the relay type. It is important to get the exact correct one, unless they are totally unobtainable - then you have to improvise. ;)
 
OK, I just found a picture at Scott Thompson's (scottrt) AU-D11 photo album. The relay that he used to replace the old one,was the MY4-02. So I think it's alright to use it.

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Does anybody know which part # I need to order to replace this cap? I broke the legs off of it. it's the c24 from the F-3262 board. It's not listed in the AU-D11's service manual and I have no idea which type of cap it is.

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Thanks John! I guess there's no radial version of it? and $20 freight charge? Is there any place in the US have this cap?
 
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There must be - try 'Newark' - they are closely connected to Farnell - but other places should have them.
 
Yep, that's fine. I would buy at least 2 - then you can swap the one in the same position in the other channel - to 'even it up' ;)

These capacitors are VERY sensitive to heat, so great care needs to be taken when soldering them in.
 
Thanks for the advice,John. Then I should order 4 of them, just in case. And on the f-3380 board I see there are 2 polystyrene (C1) with the marking '472J'. What value would it be? Is it 4700pf? which voltage is sufficient?
 
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