GTIanz, I found the disassembly instructions. They are the official instructions from KEF.
Send me your e-mail address via PM and I will e-mail them to you.
These awesome instructions were sent to me by canuck and definitely helped in the disassembly of these speakers.
Author Jay:
Needed tools:
stereo/music
work bench
lots of light(s)
2 pieces of 2x4 (or equiv), each covered with a towel/rag
baggies
felt pen
digital camera
deep sockets (1/4 drive). Do not use a cheesy set. Sockets/extensions falling off can hurt speakers.
hex drive
phillips screwdriver
small needle nosed pliers
soldering iron/solder
Practice the mantra: Do everything slow. Do not poke speakers. Repeat throughout entire process.
Start:
1. Remove speaker grill, store in safe out of the way place
2. Put two 2x4s on table, cover with cloth, lay 105/5 face up on the 2x4s (2x4s are to keep speaker posts
on back of speaker from hitting).
Remove mid/tweeter assembly (pod)
3. Remove 4 fasteners (hex drive) attaching mid/tweeter assembly. Note at each fastener location is a
bolt, spacer, and washer (washer may be stuck to pod assembly). Bag and mark.
4. Carefully lift the mid/tweeter assy straight up just a little (approx 1.5 inch), rotate assembly slightly, gently
set down. The idea is to locate the electrical connector.
5. Grab white connector at each end with thumb and forefinger, rock back and forth and pull downward
gently, and remove connector. Note: My first time removing this connector I battled it (I did not rock it) and
broke off some of the pod connector black plastic tangs.
6. Remove pod. Note this changes the CG of the speaker * if your speaker is hanging over the table make
sure it doesn't tip. Store pod in safe place. Note also metal washers on back of pod (at each fastener hole
* they may or may not be loose).
7. Take pictures, especially noting upper woofer and wire (color) connections. Note wire run path.
Start woofer access
8. Remove white stuffing above top woofer. Note that stuffing is not pushed against speaker cone, but
rather is located above the foam ring attached to the cabinet inside.
9. Locate the bottom panel of the speaker. Remove the 8 phillips screws.
10. Gently pull bottom panel out. This panel has a crossover and wires attached to it. Take a picture,
make a sketch of the wire (color) connections. Remove all 8 spade connections. I have bent thing like this
in the past. I remove very genty, rocking back and forth, while supporting the corssover board
at the spade location.
11. Store bottom panel in safe place. Interesting to note that KEF makes (or has made for them) their own
capacitors.
12. Remove white stuffing. Take pictures. Note wire runs.
Remove "woofer rod"
13. Recon. Locate bottom woofer, note bolt head protruding out the bottom. A similar bolt is installed in
the upper woofer, only on the top woofer the bolt head is inside the the middle top of speaker.
14. Warning warning warning: speaker damage potential. Go slow. Note also that speaker magnet likes
to attach to metal tools. At upper woofer, use 10 mm socket (with extension) and attach socket to bolt head
inside speaker center. Carefully loosen and remove bolt.
15. At lower woofer bottom, use socket to remove bolt. While doing this support rod in other hand. Do not
let rod poke speaker. Carefully remove rod. Bag/mark parts.
Upper woofer removal
16. Recon: Upper woofer held in place with 3 studs on upper surface. Note bottom of woofer (remember,
photos), especially location of terminals. When reinstalling woofer note to ensure terminals are in same
location. Also note (at least on mine) that wire runs are tight. Accordingly, rather than clip wires I chose to
desolder.
17. Clip or desolder wires at speaker teminals. Warning warning: if desoldering, careful of solder falling
onto speaker. Also note that speaker magnet likes to attrack soldering iron. To desolder I used strategic
light, needle nosed pliers (to pull on the wire), and careful placement of the solder gun. Slow. Careful.
Think. Do not hurt speaker. I considered as an option leaving wires intact. However they are glued in
place on their path to the bottom crossover area and I determined it would be very difficult to free them.
18. At upper surface use deep 7mm socket (with extension) to remove nut, lock washer, nut, and washer
at each of the three stud locations. Careful, slow, do not hurt speaker. Note the torque of the nuts as you
remove them (they are not installed too tight * this is noted since later you will reinstall these and they ride
against rubber * it is a bit difficult to gauge how much torque to use). Or, perhap more intelligently, eyball
how the speaker rubber grommets are compressed (before you loosen anything) * when you reinstall these
you will want the rubber grommets compressed about the same. Bag/mark parts.
19. Remove speaker by carefully (one hand on back of speaker, other on front) pushing down. Do not
harm speaker. Slow. Careful of the studs. The foam attached to the side of the cabinets gets in the way a
bit, but foam removal is not required. Work it slow. Carefully pull speaker up and out. As I am a bit anal I
marked mine (using felt pen) with speaker serial number and "upper". Put speaker in safe place.
Lower woofer removal:
20. Note woofer crossover mounted below lower woofer on back panel of cabinet. Take pictures. Note
wire color connector locations (make diagram/sketch).
21. Gently remove lower woofer speaker connections (spades) from crossover (on mine these were red
and black wires).
22. Use socket to remove nut, lock washer, nut and washer at each of the three locations. Slow, careful. If
confused by my "rubber compression" comment in item 19 above * you are now smarter (having removed
on woofer already) and can look at these better prior to removal to gauge rubber. Bag/mark parts.
23. Speaker is removed carefullly upwards. Note cabinet particle baord crossmenber. Also note cabinet
cutout for speaker. I had to (careful careful careful * do not poke speaker * watch fingers) face speaker up
(cone up) * slide up and over particle board crossmember, then rotate and remove through cabinet cutout.
Slow slow slow.
Reassembly:
1. Reverse order above. Note: Start with lower woofer. If you install upper woofer first you cannot fit lower
woofer into cabinet.............Also, good time to look at earlier photos to acquant yourself with positioning of
things.
2. Lower woofer. Slow baby steps. Slide down into cabinet, rotate cone upwards, slide woofer past
particlae board crossmember * be careful both of wires/terminals of woofer and also existing wires in
cabinet(upper woofer wires). Feed speaker wires through bottom, as you get close to studs you can use
one hand through bottom, one through cabinet front. Also, as you slide speaker onto the mounting studs be
gentle and ensure the speaker rubber grommet does not come off.
3. Remember, flat washer against speaker, then nut, lock washer and second nut. Tighten to compress
rubber grommet (as seen during disassembly). Or SWAG it, just don't kill the rubber.........
4. Upper woofer.
5. Solder
x. Bottom cavity * Before you reinstall this ensure you have attached metal rod between woofers. install
white stuffing, reconnect wires, reattach bottom panel.
Related stuff:
B200 woofer center dust cap repair
1. Order replacement dust caps, white glue (paper cone), and black glue (plastic) from Midwest Speaker
Repair.
2. Remove old dust cap. I used a rounded blade exacto knife and methodically worked my way around
and around the speaker cutting litttle bits at a time. I found that pulling up from the cone was bad (cone
paper wanted to pull up) * I worked the blade sideways. Get some stuff on the blade, wipe it off, get stuff on
the blade, wipe it off, etc. I declared it done when I had worked the paper cone surface down flat. Residual
glue and some debris was left, but not bad. I scraped the center plastic ring surface clean with a flat
screwdriver, and then a flat exacto blade.
3. Glue on new dust cap. Using small bottle white glue came in, I laid down a small bead along the cone
along the line of the previous glue. I also coated the outside edge of the new dust cap. Using the small
bottle the black glue came in, I put a slight bead on the speaker plastic center ring, and then a slight bead
along the inside edge of the new dust cap. I carefully positioned the cap over the speaker and set it down
gently. I then moved it to align in the center and pushed down to set the "black glue" portion. To get the
outer ring of the dust cap to attach to the cone I had to gently lift the cone up. I patted the edges with q*tips
(swab end or bent in half using the stick). I had to monitor/tweak the speakers for a bit until the glue set up.
Of course the more I did the better I got.............
Tweeter replacement