Reproducing H.H. Scott 330D Dials

Renslipevol

Active Member
So I have had my 330D for a while now and the dials have been a sore spot on an otherwise minty Tuner. As far as I know, no one makes them, and Parted out Scott Tuners.....well :nono:

So I have been thinking about this for quite some time. How to do it......Best way is to just start trying. I had some 3/8" Poly carbonate so I thought Id chuck it in the Lathe and see what I could do. It worked ok. WAY too much time spent on polishing the surface for good optics. But still, you can still see the machine and sanding if you get up close. I know, it looks clear in the pictures, but I wasn't happy with it. Besides, If I have to go through the trouble (fun) of making the scales on CAD and getting a silkscreen made up to screen the scales on the finished product; there just a little more work to do to complete several more sets and recoup some of my costs, donate to audiokarma, and share these sets with everyone who would also want a set. Im sure there are more than a couple out there with cracked dials.

I still have to tweek the drawings a little bit before I am happy with how perfect they match. Then I can send it off to the silkscreener.

Ive decided to go with 1/8" Acrylic for the dial, and to machine a polycarbonate sleeve to mount it to the shaft. We'll see how that goes.

Still lots of work to do but I am determined to get this to completion. Here are some early stages of work.
 

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Amazing work! :tresbon:

I've got a 399 with some dial issues. How many man hours in that thing?

Thank you!

I am no where near being finished. That sample dial in the picture was just me fooling around with the lathe. I wanted to see how well I could polish the surface. It turned out ok. I spent about an hour on that sample dial but I have spent about 3 hours on the CAD drawing for the scale and numbers.

I plotted out the dial on some paper and used a protractor for the scale. Very crude but it got me really close to match on the original dial.

Print - Reference - Make changes - Repeat. Then there is matching the Font of the numbers, and then adjusting their angles if those need moving. Its time consuming but I like things perfect. :thmbsp:

Just so you all know, there will be NO angle to my dials. YET. If you have a set, you know what Im talking about. I have to fool around with tooling and speeds to see if I cant get a better machine finish. My Old 1952 Myford lathe just wont do 9000rpm:no::D
 
Good for you! I went through a huge hassle when the dial on my 370 got damaged in shipping. Good luck with your project.
 
Well, I think I am finished with the Dial Scale drawings! :banana:

Time to send it off to be made into a screen.

Ugh, that FM dial is in SUCH bad shape.
 

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Good afternoon!

Nothing like reviving a super old thread!

With all the distancing and working from home, i decided to learn how to use autocad and I modeled up some dials from the old drawing file. I have a friend who is going to print them out on his 3D printer in white. I will then fill up the whole thing with two-part clear liquid epoxy and then paint the outer edge a matching gold colour.

It will have to be two separate parts. Once they harden, I should be able to take the smaller piece and glue it to the larger piece once the center tube have been removed.
 

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Thank you for the kind words!

I know I haven't been keeping this thread up to date very much, but it's been a crazy year.
Just after I posted my last update I decided to purchase my own printers and just do the whole process myself. Given the amount that I have learned about 3d modelling and 3d printing, I'd say I'm getting much closer to perfection.
I have been able to make some progress on the dials though. I had to change the font of the numbers because the style that they were, just didn't print well. I went from a nozzle size of 0.4mm (in white) down to 0.2mm (in gold) and the details of the numbers are much better.

Hopefully one day soon I can make these available for everyone who needs some Scott dials.

Cheers
 

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You might try a heat gun..like for shrink wrap...to smooth the machining. It's one of the tricks to melt the edges of plexiglass and make it transparent. Done carefully it might work. Need the heat set on high and careful feathering around the area.
 
I made some adjustments on the printer and tried another setting. I tried something that I didn't think would work out that great, but it did. I sliced the STL with a smaller nozzle size that what I have, and made the line width 0.4mm on a 0.2mm nozzle. It shouldn't have printed as well as it did but these two printed today will get a bath of clear resin this weekend!
 
Great Scott!

how cool
Thank you!
I remodelled the file in Tinkercad, which makes it a little easier to try different things.
I thought I would also make a ScottKit version that I always loved the look of.

Gold on Black
 

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Update!
I ordered some new resin because my old stuff turned yellow but I managed to pour these this weekend and I sanded the first one down today to the resin.

Results? After six years, definitely!
I still have to to sand the other dial down to the resin and lap out the two inserts so the light can penetrate the resin.
 

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Damn, those are NICE! Now I realize just how bad the originals on my 350's and LT110's look. Are you considering marketing these?
 
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