M-80 Power Supply Filter Capacitors

My Solution - It worked and sounds great!

I couldn't find single capacitors that weren't too long for the two top caps (33000uf @ 56V & 85c). So, I used 3 each 12000uf @ 63V CDE SLPX123M063E9P3 (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=13&y=15&lang=en&site=us&keywords=338-3354-ND) wired in parallel. I used 10 gauge solid romex wire to connect everything together, rigidly holds the capacitors and circuit board in place.
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For the Two Lower capacitors are 47000uf @ 45v & 85c I used 47000uf @ 50V CDE 382LX473M050B062VS (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=338-1981-nd&WT.z_header=search_go)
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I flattened the ends of the wire with a pair of Vice Grip pliers so they would fit through the holes in the circuit board.
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This is what worked for me and was fairly inexpensive.:banana:
 
Just a word to the wise here...

M80s and M85s fail catastrophically, taking out alot of semiconductors when they go. They can go from aged parts that should have been replaced ('lytic caps and stuff), or aged circuit board solder joints (Yamaha was good for over-sized through holes, resulting in annular joint fractures over time, but Phase Linear was worse), or from ham-handed repair/restoration activities. An M80 repair of such kind is pretty pricey, and can repeat if the tech does not get it all the first time. Ouch.

Be careful out there. M80s and M85s are some downright sweet amps. I really hate to see one go.

Good luck,
Rich P
 
My Solution - It worked and sounds great!

I couldn't find single capacitors that weren't too long for the two top caps (33000uf @ 56V & 85c). So, I used 3 each 12000uf @ 63V CDE SLPX123M063E9P3 (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=13&y=15&lang=en&site=us&keywords=338-3354-ND) wired in parallel. I used 10 gauge solid romex wire to connect everything together, rigidly holds the capacitors and circuit board in place.


Hello,
I 'd be really interested about this solution,
but as you can('T) see there are no images of this prolly great work!
there is someone that can explain how to do it?

Thanx
 
Hello,
I 'd be really interested about this solution,
but as you can('T) see there are no images of this prolly great work!
there is someone that can explain how to do it?

Thanx
CDE makes replacements... No one stocks them. Give the mfg a call and see what they have to say. Maybe there in Europe you get lucky with a supplier. I would fully explore that option before you consider multiple cap solution.
 
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grillotalpa,
Here are the pictures from the filter cap replacement job. It was a bit of work and probably overkill or a kludge, but it's still working great. My friend is using this unit daily and he's very happy with the performance. Thanks, Barry


One-cap-with-leads.jpg Caps-with-leads.jpg buttoned-up-small.jpg buttoned-up-loooking-down.jpg
Here are some more pictures I didn't include in the earlier post:


DSC_8317.jpg DSC_8318.jpg DSC_8319.jpg DSC_8320.jpg
 
thank you for your post.
i'm not very familiar for this kind of caps,
and i would ask a couple of things:
in the group of 3+3 they are clearly linked in parallel:rolleyes:
but in the group of 47000 uF they have 5 poles each,
so i don't understand how did you use them!:dunno:

then, it was difficult desoldering the old ones,
it was possible did it without remove the card ?

thank you again:thumbsup:
 
grillotalpa,
The 47000 uF cap has 5 terminals, 2 positive, 2 negative, and one dummy. I solderer the negative lead between the two negative terminal and the positive lead between the two positive terminal. I figured using two terminals per lead would make the joint more robust. To gain better access to the old caps I removed the power board (take good photos before you de-solder any of the wires to document the proper wiring configuration). The old caps were a bit of a job to remove, but I was able to do it using my de-soldering iron. I don't know if you you can tell from the speakers or not, but I flattened the ends of the wire leads with a large pair of Vise-Grip pliers. This made it easier to install the leads into the power board.
Thanks,
Barry
 
I do not know yet if i'll do this work when i'll replace all the electrolytic next weeks,
but for sure ì'll consider that for the future!
Thank you Barry..

Roberto.
 
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That will work!
I do see some room in there.... Can anyone measure to see if 80mm would fit. That would simply the install substantially.
 
Nice job,
I know this thread is way old but I was wondering what capacitors are in the signal path? I cannot read a schematic and have a M85 and and M45 that I would like to recap with special attention to the signal path. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Nice job,
I know this thread is way old but I was wondering what capacitors are in the signal path? I cannot read a schematic and have a M85 and and M45 that I would like to recap with special attention to the signal path. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Might want to start a new thread for that.
 
Technically there are no electrolytics in the signal path of the M-80.

C103 and C104 in the M-45.
 
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Ok thanks for the info. I will start a new thread. I downloaded the schematic form HIFIengine but it is pretty illegible
 
Ok thanks for the info. I will start a new thread. I downloaded the schematic form HIFIengine but it is pretty illegible
http://sportsbil.com/yamaha/m-80-s-with TSB66H.pdf

Use the M-85 manual. It is a more complete manual than the M-80. The M-85 is and M-80 with all the service bulletins complied with. Electronically they are identical. The only visible difference is whats printed on the front panel and the rear panel. Chances are your M-80 already has the service bulletins complied with. Most were completed before they left the factory. Except for the low serial numbered units.
 
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