Pioneer SX-737 Score

VintageMad89

Active Member
Hi folks, just scored a lovely condition SX-737 from the bay which arrived today:D A real looker!

Initial inspection inside revealed a couple of caps with shrunken jackets on the power board (no surprise really) and a little dust here and there. All other caps appeared to show no obvious signs of trouble.
The "noble" resistor to the right of the board also looks like its been running a little hot with the tell tale browning of the board in that area. Powering the unit on confirmed this- my finger is a little singed!

Hooked up my DMM to the speaker terminals and after letting it settle for 20 mins the readings were about 30mV on each channel- not too bad (for now anyway)

Are there any areas in particular I should be aware of/take a closer look at? I do plan to do a full recap of the unit over the next week or so- although some of those boards look a right bitch to remove & recap but I love a challenge!

Any ideas would be appreciated:thmbsp:

Cheers guys
 
Congrats !
You have the recap list here :

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=494440

Check what is available and what is non stocked , and get replacements
Study the SErvice manual and the boards .. It's a fun job but you need to be accurate and careful on what goes where and in which polarity.
Good luck ! You have experts here (not me lol) that can help you a lot .
 
Thanks omri617! That will be a big help- can always count on MTF with a cap list :thmbsp:

Here are a few pics to illustrate my findings. The dial lamps look a little dimmer than my SX-434... Thoughts?

EDIT:There are quite a few pale blue SANYO caps both on the Tuner board and the Phono? board. Can anyone tell me what kind of caps they are?

Cheers!
 

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Bump

Does anyone have any suggestions on the dial lamps? A bad cap somewhere perhaps is my thinking but I could be wrong.
They appear to be the correct 8v 300mA fuse lamps
 
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Does anyone know why the Noble RGB5 resistor on the power board is browning the board? It seems to run extremely hot with a noticeable odour after a few minutes.

Further investigation revealed that one of the 2SD313 transistors has been replaced with TIP41C. Could this be the cause of my problem? Any help greatly appreciated!
 
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Which version of the 737 did you get. Look on the Service manual and the back of the unit for clues. It's important.

attachment.php


1.) Resistors on the Power supply get hot for a reason. HEAT DISSIPATION. It's NORMAL. The board gets cooked and turns brown, just like a roast in the oven. When you rebuild the power supply, install the resistors about 1/4" (6-7mm) above the board to allow for air flow.

2.) Pull the latest parts list here and POST IT for VETTING! Since it was made parts have been changed, been superceded, etc. One of us will make sure it's up to date and ok it for you.

3.) GET THE MANUALS FOR IT...... Manuals HERE ........Get the HIGHEST RESOLUTION you can. READ THEM AND STUDY THE SERVICE MANUAL.

4.) Related to #3. All parts used are referenced to a BOARD #. For Example the 2sd313's on the power supply board are;
AWR-057 Q1 2SD313 E or D
and
AWR-057 Q3 2sd313 E or D

Resistors and caps are listed the same way. This is to make sure everyone is working off the same sheet of music. The "RGB5" resistor on the Power supply board doesn't tell us anything other than it's on the POWER SUPPLY board. BUT due to the cooking of the board I would venture to say it's probably
AWR-057 R3 180ohm 5W RT5B 181K.

5.) Also related to 3 & 4. On the PIONEER FORUM PAGE is a sticky thread (meaning it stays in place at the top or near the top of the list) called PIONEER TUNING FORK MANUALS (or words to that effect). DOWNLOAD THESE and read / study them. These will give you insights to how Pioneer engineered and numbered the parts for identification. Also how they work.

6.) MOST IMPORTANT. The instructions in the manual for setting the bias and offset are INCORRECT! See this thread "Notice to ALL 737 / 7730 OWNERS......" for details on correct procedure.

7.) GO SLOW AND METHODICALLY! jumping all over the place is confusing to you and us. Start with one problem and FIX the UNIT 1st. When it's running acceptably, THEN start the rebuild. Do one board at a time, test. If ok, go to the next board. If not, troubleshoot and FIX before moving on. This is one of the biggest problems with new owners. They want their gear to be 1000% NOW! It don't work like that. It takes time, concentration and a LOT OF PATIENCE. Granted the 737 is fairly easy compared to a 1010 or one of the big beasts, but it's also too easy to screw it up. If you don't understand something ask the question here, and wait for an answer. As most of us "Colonials" are 4-8 hours behind you, it might take a while. Sit on your hands, until you get the answer. DO NOT UnWRAP any wire from pins. You CAN lift each board from the chassis without removing the wiring. It's somewhat brittle, so a wire may break at the wire. If so, just solder it back to the pin. Make slack in the wiring by opening up the hold down ties.

8.) There are a few upgrades that are now considered mandatory that PIONEER initially didn't put in, but later did. Suggest you read all of the 737 /7730 threads. The one that has the largest protection impact is a single diode. It's used to prevent back voltage to a transistor on the Protection Circuit board(AWM-025-C). When you shut the unit off, voltage flows back to the transistor(Q7) and over time causes the transistor to fail. Installing the diode keeps this from happening. Part is a 1n4004 to 4007 (whatever you have in hand of that series) attached to pins 9 and 10 of the protection circuit board(AWM-025C), with the banded side (Cathode) on pin 10.


The Dial Lamps are run off the 7.5vAC section of the transformer. Fused from F-1 (Fuse #1). Check the Fuse with a meter (out of circuit). Visual inspection isn't good enough. The Mode selector rotary switch is also involved to switch the function lamps. Also pull the lamps and check each one with a meter. This is a common problem with fuse lamps and long distance moves. They worked at one place and when at the new place don't work. If they don't meter out, just get new lamps.

The TIP41C is probably ok here. But I'd replace it with a KSC2073 (per the parts list).

The Cooking of the board is NORMAL with a high wattage resistor. It dissipates a lot of heat. Short of redesigning the whole board, all you can do is raising the resistor a bit above the board (outlined above).

Some pictures of the boards will help in determining how much "abuse" it's had.


EDIT: I didn't see the pictures at 1st. The pictures conform my guess on the resistor. Also with the lamps, they are most likely burnt out as the function lamps are working (same circuit). Pull, test and replace as necessary.





Larry
 

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Thanks Larryderouin, very helpful! :thmbsp:

From what I can see my 737 is an "F" multi voltage version or General Export Version. I have a good quality copy of the manual in PDF. I have also read and taken a note of the typo in the SM, thanks!

Regarding the 5W resistor or AWR-057 R3 180ohm 5W RT5B 181K as you've said, can you perhaps point me in the right direction i.e Mouser part no? I'll be ordering the caps and a few other parts shortly and would be greatful if you could tell me what I'm looking for.
Unfortunately due to moving house in the coming weeks I may not have as much time on this project to begin with but I'm in no rush- its got to be done correctly! I'll keep the updates going as I progress :D

**EDIT** I've also checked for the diode upgrade but there isn't one in my particular model (1974 build) This will be something I shall be including in my restoration!
 
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Either of these will work. 5% tolerance is fine. You don't need the 1% tolerance on the power supply as most of the parts are 5 to 20%.

71-RS005180R0FE12 1% $2.15

71-CW5-180 5% $0.89

In the search box type in 180ohm 5W resistor, then take your pick. I tend to Vishay/Dale and Ohmite brands if possible for the higher wattage (Ohmites tend to be better built).

Do the power supply 1st. That way, when all the voltages are right, everything should fall in to place. Then protection circuit, amps, Tone control, equalizer board. Test between each one.

Family and home come 1st. Keep us advised. If you run into trouble, ask questions and we'll get to you as soon as possible. Before you know it, the 737 will be singing fine, and the next time it'll need work, your grandkids will be asking the questions.

Larry
 
Cheers Larry, again hugely helpful!

As a rule of thumb, I usually begin with the power board on any receiver/amp I restore- as you say- always good to get those voltages sorted first.
The receiver does work, pretty well actually- no noisy pots or disturbing sounds. Everything seems to function normally- I even checked the bias and offset, as per the manual correction and was amazed that they were still almost to spec with only about 0.5 mV variance.

The main things that suggested it will need work was the sign of shrunken jackets on a few caps on the power board as well as some browning around the 5W Resistor and 2SD313 (one replaced with TIP41c) transistors.
She is mint otherwise :D

Much appreciated, as I say I'll keep you posted with my progress.

Take 'er easy
 
QUICK UPDATE:

Further to my earlier post, I went and measured the voltages at the pins on the power board (as per markthefixer's post in the 737 Recap thread) and all were found to be almost, if not, exactly as they should be with only a couple with a variance of +/- 1V which I guess is to be expected with a few suspected bad caps.

This seems to be looking not too bad so far... :)

Cheers
 
Sounds like it's in pretty good shape as is. It will need some work to bring it back up to full spec and to get rid of certain "problem children". Namely the 2sa725's, 2sa726's and the 2sc1451's in the amplifier boards, and other boards. Get rid of those and you've got the transistors pretty much licked. The protection board will need some work to bring it to better than spec but that's about $2.00US in parts. Add the 1n4004 diode across pins 9 and 10 and it'll be damn near bulletproof.

If your wall voltage fluctuates between 220-230, just set it for 240. It'll still sound good but will run slightly cooler and won't strain the power supply transformer. That way if it surges to 240, you've got it covered already.

Don't bother trying to clean the RELAY, just replace it.
 
Cheers Larry, I'm currently looking through Mark's parts list as we speak!

Any transistors that have been mentioned as suspect I will be replacing anyway plus they're pretty cheap to replace! Can't wait to get 'er back up to spec:music:

I've moved the voltage selector to 240v like the rest of my equipment- thanks for the tip!:thmbsp:
 
Hello folks!

Well, finally after a house move and several months of refurbishment, I can now get my 737 completed.

I have ordered part replacements (as per Mark's list) and should have them tomorrow. I've been doing a bit of reading on transistor replacements- in particular- the 2SC1451's and 2SC726's and was wondering if there will be a difference in lead configuration? ECB, BCE etc

Thanks, and, it's good to be back!
 
Yes there will be differences. Go back on Mouser, look up the transistors and download the DATASHEETS, if you haven't already. The pinout's for the new transistors will be on their individual data sheets. On the board there will be a diagram for the base, collector and emitter pins for each one. If it's gaffed, look at the board drawings. But be advised the board drawings are from the back or solder side. So you have to transpose to the front or component side. See Marks POST #11 in this thread.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=43186

My father's maternal grandfather was from Scotland. Last name GROH. or was it GROHE? Not sure where in Scotland but I think it was near Edinburgh.
 
Yeah, went back and downloaded the data sheets so should be good. Thanks! Got about 95% of the power board completed today- just one transistor left plus diodes & rectifier diodes then the remaining boards.

ALSO, the film caps to replace the sanyo caps on the power amp board were out of stock on Mouser Part no. 598-DSF050J334 so I ordered KL's. Will these be okay here?

Looking forward to bringing it back to spec! :)

Ah interesting! I'm from the West of Scotland, near Glasgow.
 
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Yeah the KL's will be fine. The reason we went to films, is the smaller lytics tend to go bad faster than the larger ones. With the films you wouldn't have that particular problem.
 
Yeah- I figured they would probably do until the films are back in stock. Thanks Larry!

So far, so good. All is coming along nicely. Got the power board complete as well as the protection circuit:thmbsp:

Attached a pic of the completed power board. Cheers!
 

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Hello! Small update folks.

I have completed the power board, protection circuit, power amp, Mic & phono section. All performing to spec. I took some readings from the power board-


pin 14 +35.4v regulated
pin 13 -13.1v regulated
pin 19 +13.6v regulated
pin 7 -39v unregulated
pin 9 +37.2v unregulated
pin 10 -37.5v unregulated

All readings were rechecked after being powered on for 2 hours with little or no change :D

Next is the control amp board but I forgot to order enough 2KSC1845 transistors (damn):stupid: still scratching my head over that one...

Finally, the Tuner board. Will changing components here affect the alignment? I have a pretty bad hum between stations on FM with or without FM mute on...
 
Hello! Small update folks.

I have completed the power board, protection circuit, power amp, Mic & phono section. All performing to spec. I took some readings from the power board-


pin 14 +35.4v regulated
pin 13 -13.1v regulated
pin 19 +13.6v regulated
pin 7 -39v unregulated
pin 9 +37.2v unregulated
pin 10 -37.5v unregulated

All readings were rechecked after being powered on for 2 hours with little or no change :D

Next is the control amp board but I forgot to order enough 2KSC1845 transistors (damn):stupid: still scratching my head over that one...

Finally, the Tuner board. Will changing components here affect the alignment? I have a pretty bad hum between stations on FM with or without FM mute on...

Voltages look good.

ksc1845s, too much haggis the night before, maybe??? Or was it that fine long legged highland lassie?????????

The hum could be from the tuner, or it could be a dirty switch contact problem, or a grounding problem. What about AM? Does that hum too?

Did the 737 come from one of the counties where they slur all their words together into one incomprehensible noise? No Brogue? :naughty:

I generally haven't had to do much to the tuner other than the lytics. The tuner does have a pair of 2sa725. KSA992's here are fine. Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL around the styrol(styrene) caps (C37 and C55). Styrols are very very heat sensitive, which is why you use a medical clamp (kelly or mosquito) or a medium to large alligator clip on the lead while soldering on or next to them as a heatsink. There may be sky blue SANYO Caps (I'd bet on it too). These have to be replaced as they have a bad history. The tuner is a ROYAL PITA to get loose and (1) keep the wiring intact, (2) keep the tuner VC cord intact while doing it. Use Stacked film for anything 2.2uf and under. UKL Nichicons for everything larger than 2.2uf. Be VERY CAREFUL AROUND any Coils, transformers, and trimmers. It don't take much to knock them a-kilter and you'll have to get it aligned.

Read this thread on cleaning the tuner and Variable Capacitor (tuning cap).... http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=144163
 
It would have been nice if the fuses were boarded on my SX-828. Mine are just soldered to a couple of junction blocks. Lucky.
 
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