What is a good Yamaha turntable to get?

guitar1580

Active Member
I'm into vintage Yamaha gear and have used it for decades, but have never had a Yamaha TT. I would imagine that their quality compares well with other top brands.

I'm considering watching ebay for a used one. I'm not real concerned about whether it's belt drive or direct, but I would like to get one with pitch adjustments.

Could anyone suggest a good model to watch for, or ones I should avoid? Not looking to spend a ton. Maybe $100 to $150.

Thanks,
JP
 
Well maybe it is more easy to mention the lower models from Yamaha, than you know what not to bid at :)

In general Yamaha did never do any really bad TT's, but thay did go close with some series.

The TT- line was properly as low as Yamaha ever did. TT-300, 400 and 500.
Then there is a lowend part of the PF- line, witch do not compair to the PF-800/1000 (top TT's from Yamaha). PF-20, 30 and 50.
The P- line is also in the lower end of Yamaha's production, anyway most of them do not have pitch control so not in you're list.

Classic's are the YP-D line and bigger YP- tables.
 
Now that would be the YP-D71 and YP-D51 :)

The arm is not based on the GT design, but the YP-D8 and 10 arms are a an early version of the GT arm - so it is the other way around.
 
Check out Audiogon. There were 3 or 4 nice Yamaha TTs listed the last time I looked. Especially like the YP-701 with the custom plinth. It is one of Yamaha's nicer TTs if you can deal with a manual TT. Jewel-like precision in that arm.
 
YP-701..:yes: P-750..:yes: PF-800..Now your getting there..:thmbsp:
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

Any experiences or opinions on the YP-D6? I think one is going for sale, not sure of the price yet.

Josh P
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

Any experiences or opinions on the YP-D6? I think one is going for sale, not sure of the price yet.

Josh P
I think I have one in for repair.Looks like a very good table.

Nope .Its a YP-D8 heavy SOB..
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

Any experiences or opinions on the YP-D6? I think one is going for sale, not sure of the price yet.

Josh P

I've a YP-D6, that I found in a thrift store, sans dust cover. All cleaned up and tuned/tightened, it a good semi-auto direct drive (my fave combo) TT. It's got a Denon 103 into a Denon step-up transformer, and it sounds really nice.

One caveat, the cuing lever mechanism is atrocious.
 
I've a YP-D6, that I found in a thrift store, sans dust cover. All cleaned up and tuned/tightened, it a good semi-auto direct drive (my fave combo) TT. It's got a Denon 103 into a Denon step-up transformer, and it sounds really nice.

One caveat, the cuing lever mechanism is atrocious.
The YP-D6 is a nice TT. Just not as heavy in all aspects as the YP-D8/10 TTs. Cuing levers on most of Yamaha's TTs "dry out". They use a coating of very high viscosity dampening fluid on a serrated shaft to work and it disappears over time. Several years ago (4-5?) someone posted a fairly extensive thread with pic's on how to add fluid to both the YP-D71 and PF-1000/800 TTs. The others are similar. Not a big deal. Just make sure you put your stylus cap on before you do the work. :yes: Believe you can purchase an ounce of the dampening fluid from the Vinyl Engine. Been so long ago have forgotten where it came from (Needle Doctor?). But, an ounce will last you many, many TTs is how little is needed.
 
I think I have one in for repair.Looks like a very good table.

Nope .Its a YP-D8 heavy SOB..

Dave....YOU repair Turntables TOO! How much room you got in that there shop of yours????:D:D:D

Sorry I can't help with the original post question since my knowledge of Yamaha TT is limited to the 100V versions and probably of very little help. Didn't mean to high jack the thread.
 
The YP-D6 is a nice TT. Just not as heavy in all aspects as the YP-D8/10 TTs. Cuing levers on most of Yamaha's TTs "dry out". They use a coating of very high viscosity dampening fluid on a serrated shaft to work and it disappears over time. Several years ago (4-5?) someone posted a fairly extensive thread with pic's on how to add fluid to both the YP-D71 and PF-1000/800 TTs. The others are similar. Not a big deal. Just make sure you put your stylus cap on before you do the work. :yes: Believe you can purchase an ounce of the dampening fluid from the Vinyl Engine. Been so long ago have forgotten where it came from (Needle Doctor?). But, an ounce will last you many, many TTs is how little is needed.

Not in this case, it's just a terrible, long-distance affair with no intrinsic dampening. I can't imagine how what you describe would work, but if I'm ever under the hood again I have a look.
 
Not in this case, it's just a terrible, long-distance affair with no intrinsic dampening. I can't imagine how what you describe would work, but if I'm ever under the hood again I have a look.
Yes, has that funky 'under the plinth' linkage', but am guessing the the friction method used to slow the TA drop, which is just in front of the TA pivot, is still using very high viscosity dampening fluid. Yamaha used a few mm diameter rod with serrated cuts around it in several places that slides through a 'collar', for lack of a better description. They called it a 'dashpot of limited stroke' (or maybe that was Sony). Anyway, the rod is coated with the fluid, which creates a drag as the rod is moved up or down through the collar. It eventually (after 25+ years) dries out and needs to be reapplied.
 
YP-D6. Hm.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Any experiences or opinions on the YP-D6? I think one is going for sale, not sure of the price yet.
Josh P

I would not aim for the YP-D6. In the late seventies I bought one when it came on the European market. This model has Yamaha looks but lacks impressive build and tonal quality. Be patient and wait for another model.
 
The arm is not based on the GT design, but the YP-D8 and 10 arms are a an early version of the GT arm - so it is the other way around.
Please look and compare the arms of (YP)-D51/71 and YP-D8/10: http://audio-heritage.jp/YAMAHA/player/index3.html
D51/71 arm bases are similar to GT series though the arm itself is constructed of a different material.
O.P.: Recommend the D-51, having owned one for a couple of years as well as the GT-2000L. Of course the GT outperforms the D51 with the same cart, but the YP-D51 is certainly a great sounding deck. Aim up as high as you can in the series and good luck!
 
This one was just posted for sale on CAM yesterday.
It is a YP-800 with a Alphason Delta arm.
http://www. canuckaudiomart.com/details/202328-yamaha_yp800_with_alphason_delta_tonearm_/

Copy and paste the slightly altered web link to your browser to view.:music:
 
Depending on your budget, here is what I'd consider the ranking of Yamaha TTs, from the very best downwards. In this case, price levels tend to match up pretty well with quality rankings, so they get cheaper as you go down the list:
(These are direct drives:)
GT-2000X
GT-2000L
GT-2000
GT-1000
GT-750
(These are belt drives:)
PF-1000
PF-800

All the rest... :D

The first five on that list were only sold in Japan. The GT-2000X is by far the best, with a larger (HUGE) plinth with glossy veneer finish, heavier platter, beefier motor, etc... In fact, it is one of the best "mass production" (as opposed to "boutique crafted") TTs ever made, period, but it was sold in limited numbers, and remains somewhat hard to find and very expensive (several thousand dollars) today. It is THE Yamaha TT to get, if you have lots of money and don't mind spending it on something that gives you both terrific sound quality and some real pride of ownership ("bragging rights").

The GT-2000 and GT-2000L are much more affordable than the "X", but usually still run over $1,000 if you are buying from overseas. The only differences between the 2000 and the 2000L are that the 2000 is black (stained wood veneer, just like the NS-1000M speakers) and completely manual, whereas the 2000L has brown wood veneer and auto arm-lift at the end of the record. The auto arm-lift was also available as an accessory to retrofit on the (black) 2000 arm, making it functionally identical to the "L" version.

The GT-1000 and GT-750 TTs, despite looking a lot like the 2000's on the outside, are more cheaply constructed under the skin, and do not perform at the same level... but they're still fine TTs, compared to most, and quite a bit more affordable than their bigger brothers. {You get what you pay for!}

The PF-1000 and PF-800 are belt-drive tables with suspended sub-chassis. They were sold in North America and Europe, too. The ones sold in America had brown wood veneer and aluminum trim; the ones sold elsewhere were black in color. Other than the cosmetic finishes and the electrical voltages (transformers), the models were the same worldwide. The 1000 TT has a few improvements over the 800, like a little heavier, denser platter, but both are very similar to each other.

If you've ever thought of getting something like an AR, Systemdek, (suspended) Thorens or Linn, get one of these, instead. They're a later design with some innovative improvements, and sound quite good! They still sell for under $1000, and are still probably good value in that range, but the price has been going up steeply on these over the past year or two; it seems the word on them is getting out, and they may be developing a bit of a "cult following" (and probably deservedly so...).

As for the lower-down models, I think the guys above have already been filling you in better than I can. Those models will be more affordable and easier to find in most places. But if you can stretch your budget a little and want to skip right to a really superior-quality TT, I'd suggest one on the list above.
 
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