Refinishing the Yamaha NS-1000

belgianbrain

belgianbrain

Super Member
I just acquired my second set of Yamaha NS-1000M.

My first set was virtually like new. This set is in good condition, but not like the first. I'm tempted to give this set a royal refinishing treatment, along with the Troels Gravesen crossovers.

I have basic woodworking skills.

As I understand it:

Step 1: Remove all components and use fine grit sandpaper on my rotary sander to sand down to bare veneer, being careful not to burn through veneer.

Step 2: Apply new finish. I understand there are many options here, some of which require multiple coats with fine sanding inbetween.

I'd like a nice shiny wood finish on these. Haven't decided yet between dark ebony color or lighter finish. I'll probably lean towards darker because I would think it'll conceal the imperfections in my work better. I'd prefer something that won't take 40 hours of work to finish, but I do want it to look good - orgasm good. :D

Any advice or suggestions?
 
Don't bother trying to get a nice finish with the stock veneer, its very hard and won't even absorb stain properly. I sanded down and tried and it was just no good. I ended up buying some nice veneer and applying that, I'll take pictures and post shortly.
 
Very nice. Did you just glue the new veneer over the old? I assume a rough sanding would be all I need to glue over the old?

Any tips for how to do it? Got a good link for a walkthrough?
 
I used green contact adhesive and a hard rubber veneer roller. I've tried regular contact glue which was a total mess, in the past I've tried wood glue but you need some kind of vacuum system to hold the veneer in place since the glue takes a few hours to dry.

Just rough up the surface first and then if you choose the same type of contact glue use a foam roller to apply it, its very important to keep the glue smooth so there are no lumps otherwise you will see it in the veneer. Also if you put veneer try to buy pieces that will cover with a single piece. Mine were 16" x36" and I used 9. I've now done a few pairs this way with very good results. Best results were using mahogany, makore or walnut, more porous woods I'd guess.

If you need more pics of glue/tools or the finished part let me know and I'll get them to you.
 
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Interesting. I see a lot online about people using veneer that has a paper adhesive on the back. Any thoughts on that? Looks very easy.

Did you use a powered laminate trimmer to trim the veneer or a blade?
 
belgianbrain said:
Interesting. I see a lot online about people using veneer that has a paper adhesive on the back. Any thoughts on that? Looks very easy.

Did you use a powered laminate trimmer to trim the veneer or a blade?
Click to expand...


I would rather do iron-on veneer, I used PSA on my Genesis 1+ and it was a bit of a pain.
 
Most of the paper backed I've seen is made up of smaller pieces,I wanted a single pieces which I believe is much nicer. Practice first or be prepared to strip off and restart.
 
DSC_2783.jpg Side view of the veneer on both speakers. I've tried iron on veneer in the past and it was easy and worked pretty well but after a few years it started to bubble and lift in spots.
 
Its makore, a type of African wood very similar to mahogany. The holes are just slow and tedious work a bit at a time with a sharp knife.
 
Also, try the "google search" at the top of the AK page for lots of info regarding veneering and re-veneering.
I'm re-veneering a pair of Hornshoppe back loaded cabinets now and I ordered my mahogany veneer from veneersupplies.com (no aff btw). There are many places to shop from though, many different ways to finish.
I'm done veneering the HS's cabs now and I'm waiting on an order of aniline dye to stain with instead of oil stain.
This will be my first too.
 
KenP said:
Don't bother trying to get a nice finish with the stock veneer, its very hard and won't even absorb stain properly. I sanded down and tried and it was just no good. I ended up buying some nice veneer and applying that, .
Click to expand...

Sanding is never a good method for removing old finish for refinishing, especially on veneer, and even more especially if the surface is to be stained.

What does work is chemical stripping, most efficiently done with a methylene chloride stripper, but others will do albeit more slowly.

You can reveneer over the old veneer as long as the old is thoroughly sound with no bubbles or lifted places.
 
SteveS in VA said:
Sanding is never a good method for removing old finish for refinishing, especially on veneer, and even more especially if the surface is to be stained.

What does work is chemical stripping, most efficiently done with a methylene chloride stripper, but others will do albeit more slowly.

You can reveneer over the old veneer as long as the old is thoroughly sound with no bubbles or lifted places.
Click to expand...

No bubbles or lifted places on the original veneer - just a lot of light scratches, and a few indentations. Are you saying there is no need to rough up the surface with sanding prior to applying new veneer?
 
Ordered PSA backed American black walnut veneer. The good stuff, a single 4 x 8 sheet.

Now, jumping ahead a bit, but I'm debating between dark walnut stain, ebony stain, or a deep red stain....:headscrat
 
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Kim G said:
I am very fond of Waterlox on walnut.
Click to expand...

Very nice. For brown, I'd definitely look at the product.

My entire system and cabinetry is black, as are my stands. I'm thinking a black stain, but high gloss. Any suggestions?

Also, I'm thinking I will veneer right over the mounting holes for the grills since I don't use the grills. I assume I should fill the holes first? Suggestion for a material?
 
beautiful looking speakers.belginbrain I wonder how your speakers would look in black lacquer?love the look myself.
 
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