Greg Weed
Giant Sloar
Hi, everyone - my first post.
I have a new Yamaha CR-1020 receiver, and I just love it. It's beautiful and it sounds sooo great playing my BIC 920 turntable. Thanks to Merrylander, Avionic, Simplyidiot, and many others for all the info. I've been reading here for days.
I've done 3 days of Deoxit Red treatments on all the controls, including the coupler switch in back, and working the controls hundreds of times after each, greatly ameliorated a very weak left channel. Crayon on the tuner string fixed its grab. (see picture.)
I am getting very intermittent popping. Shortly after powering up, then it might go hours without popping at all. It put it into protection a couple of times, but to seems less severe after the last cleaning/working of the decoupler switch.
I've never worked on electronics before, but I'm ready to buy a voltmeter and test/adjust idle current. First, some newbie questions. My apologies if these are available in threads or stickies somewhere else. I've seen threads and I have the manual.
1. When testing/adjusting idle current, other than using a non-metallic screwdriver and not touching things, how do I keep myself and the unit safe?
2. When clipping the meter to TP0 to test idle current, where exactly do I clip it? On the solder?
3. The LEDs are working except for "FM Stereo." It did come on weakly for a while once, and one other time it came on to accompany a pop, then went back off. A clue?
4. Any advantage to using jumpers to bypass the pre-main coupling switch?
5. Lamps are all out. I'd love to re-lamp myself, but I've never used a solder gun. If I had a backup receiver, I might experiment, but I don't. I'm in Washington, DC, so I was crushed to see that my Maryland neighbor Merrylander no longer works on equipment! I'm two years too late. Any other recommendations for economical re-lamping in the DC area? I've also read that re-lamping sometimes clears up popping at shutdown, which I'm experiencing.
6. Speakers (don't laugh). I'm running either 4-ohm JBL Control 1s monitors or 6-ohm Pioneer SP BS-22s in series through an 80-watt Dayton Audio 800 subwoofer. The 1020 manual says not to run A AND B if anything's less than 8 ohm, so I'm not. But am I OK with this setup?
Thanks in advance for any replies. I've already learned a lot here!
Greg
I have a new Yamaha CR-1020 receiver, and I just love it. It's beautiful and it sounds sooo great playing my BIC 920 turntable. Thanks to Merrylander, Avionic, Simplyidiot, and many others for all the info. I've been reading here for days.
I've done 3 days of Deoxit Red treatments on all the controls, including the coupler switch in back, and working the controls hundreds of times after each, greatly ameliorated a very weak left channel. Crayon on the tuner string fixed its grab. (see picture.)
I am getting very intermittent popping. Shortly after powering up, then it might go hours without popping at all. It put it into protection a couple of times, but to seems less severe after the last cleaning/working of the decoupler switch.
I've never worked on electronics before, but I'm ready to buy a voltmeter and test/adjust idle current. First, some newbie questions. My apologies if these are available in threads or stickies somewhere else. I've seen threads and I have the manual.
1. When testing/adjusting idle current, other than using a non-metallic screwdriver and not touching things, how do I keep myself and the unit safe?
2. When clipping the meter to TP0 to test idle current, where exactly do I clip it? On the solder?
3. The LEDs are working except for "FM Stereo." It did come on weakly for a while once, and one other time it came on to accompany a pop, then went back off. A clue?
4. Any advantage to using jumpers to bypass the pre-main coupling switch?
5. Lamps are all out. I'd love to re-lamp myself, but I've never used a solder gun. If I had a backup receiver, I might experiment, but I don't. I'm in Washington, DC, so I was crushed to see that my Maryland neighbor Merrylander no longer works on equipment! I'm two years too late. Any other recommendations for economical re-lamping in the DC area? I've also read that re-lamping sometimes clears up popping at shutdown, which I'm experiencing.
6. Speakers (don't laugh). I'm running either 4-ohm JBL Control 1s monitors or 6-ohm Pioneer SP BS-22s in series through an 80-watt Dayton Audio 800 subwoofer. The 1020 manual says not to run A AND B if anything's less than 8 ohm, so I'm not. But am I OK with this setup?
Thanks in advance for any replies. I've already learned a lot here!
Greg