XP-9b crossover removal

Geilex

New Member
Howdy all. I am trying to remove the crossovers from a pair of XP-9b's so i can re-cap them. I am having trouble getting the crossover out. Anyone have any tips. I removed the 4 screws that were in the board, but there is some unbelievable 60's glue that is holding them down:tears: and I can't get it out!! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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You DID pull the knob and the retainer nut from the rotary switch on the back, in addition to the 4 screws?

You should be able to recap it with the board still inside. It's tight, but doable.
 
Thanks for the reply. Yes the knob is off but from what I call tell it is all one piece and the entire crossover is glued down?!?!? I also need to get it out to get the values of the caps. Cant find any info or schematics on this model.
 
The one on the left looks to be 25uf/ either 25V or 50V. If they aren't glued to the board you can rotate them with a pair of needlenose pliers. Probably a 3uf or 4uf for the tweeter and 50uf for the woofer.

You may have no choice but to do surgery inside. It's not hard as it looks. Another option is to remove the insulation, giving you a free shot at the edge of the board. Then use a paint scraper, and slip it under the edge as a pry bar.

Larry
 
That orange tweeter is more than likely dead and will need to be rebuilt or replaced.

Fisher did use some good glue :)
 
I too recommend surgery in place. If you can't read the caps, snip one end right where the wire enters the cap. Lift and twist the cap so you can read. This leaves the lead soldered where it was so you can remember the hookup.

In fact, you don't have to desolder the old cap leads. Simply glue down a new cap (with value facing UP for future generations!) and hook up the new leads to the old. I use a small piece of stiff steel wire to wind the new cap leads into pigtails which slip right over the old leads.
 
It's really hard to recap those in place. They can be pried up, but yeah, they are stuck down good and proper. I did my XP-5 crossovers by prying those suckers up with a good blade screwdriver and a little tap on them with a hammer. Once they begin to move, they come right out. I used Gorilla glue to reseal them.
 
Thank for all the hints everyone. The orange dome tweets still work:yes:. I also have a pair of original XP-9 and the dome tweets work on those as well. I will try the pry out method as the caps are glued in place. I just want some of the glue they used!!!!
 
I've got a pair of ca. 1970 LWE's with a very complicated feedback loop crossover network, and they not only glued it down, but poured clear plastic over the whole thing to make it nearly impossible to disassemble, reverse engineer, or repair.
 
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