Garrard 401 stopped turning
- Thread starter abdraffay
- Start date
Thanks for your comments, will it be possible for you to provide a list of tools that I would be needing.
Btw, how much would it cost to get it services in the UK. In case I mess it up.
Dandy
Addicted Member
Dandy
Addicted Member
+1 on JP's words.
The only other suggestions I would add is: (1) make sure you have good light when you are working and (2) when you disassemble it, do it on something like an old white sheet, so that if anything small like the circlip flies or drops off you can find it again. Actually most (all?) the parts can be replaced, but it can be scary if you think you've lost or broken something important. The good thing about both your Garrard motor unit and SME tonearm is that they were made to be fully serviceable.
You might also do a search of British audio sites, such as Pink Fish Media for more info on servicing Garrard 401s, e.g. a nice page on cleaning them here: http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=159111 or Garrard 401 for beginners here: http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=138836. This should reassure you that 'the knowledge' is out there if you need it.
The only other suggestions I would add is: (1) make sure you have good light when you are working and (2) when you disassemble it, do it on something like an old white sheet, so that if anything small like the circlip flies or drops off you can find it again. Actually most (all?) the parts can be replaced, but it can be scary if you think you've lost or broken something important. The good thing about both your Garrard motor unit and SME tonearm is that they were made to be fully serviceable.
You might also do a search of British audio sites, such as Pink Fish Media for more info on servicing Garrard 401s, e.g. a nice page on cleaning them here: http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=159111 or Garrard 401 for beginners here: http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=138836. This should reassure you that 'the knowledge' is out there if you need it.
http://thecrossovernetwork.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?5167-Servicing-the-Garrard-401.
In the above link the guy removed the idler wheel from the top, do you think that would do for fixing the magnet as i might get some space in the absense of the wheel. This way I would not be taking it apart.
What do you guys think?
Cheers,
abdraffay.
In the above link the guy removed the idler wheel from the top, do you think that would do for fixing the magnet as i might get some space in the absense of the wheel. This way I would not be taking it apart.
What do you guys think?
Cheers,
abdraffay.
Dandy
Addicted Member
The pics and text in that link looks good. The idea of using a feeler guage to set the gap between the magnet and disc is good. You can get one cheaply from any auto parts shop. I understand your nervousness, but if you work gently and don't force anything you should be fine.
Remember to take pictures of each stage of disassembly so you can see how to reverse the process.
Remember to take pictures of each stage of disassembly so you can see how to reverse the process.
Hi,
Just to confirm:
1. Should I unscrew A & B (Green)
2. Would C (Red) come remain intact, dont have to do anything with that
3. Detach D (Red) before pulling off the Idler Wheel bracket, and the other spring on the other side as well.
I think tomorrow morning I will try this approach first, and if this does not work then go all out.
Cheers,
abdraffay.
JP
7480 74111110101115
Yes, unscrew A and B. C will remain intact. D is attached to the arm of the idler, which isn't going to come off - you're just pulling the wheel.
When you put it back together, you'll need to snug up the screws, test that the top bracket is properly aligned by making sure the wheel spins freely, and then tighten them up.
When you put it back together, you'll need to snug up the screws, test that the top bracket is properly aligned by making sure the wheel spins freely, and then tighten them up.
In your opinion, leaving my nervous state out, is it a good idea to try this approach or not. Because if it is not possible to fix the magnet from here then I will be opening it up unnecessarily. But I suppose to take out the motor to reach the magnet shaft I would have to disengage the wheel in any case.
JP
7480 74111110101115
If taking it off gives you enough clearance then it's a good approach. If not, it's no big deal as the wheel is very easy to put back on - we're talking less than a couple minutes to take it off and put it back.
I found a not great photo of my last rebuild, and it looks like the magnet is flush with the front of the arm - see attached.
I found a not great photo of my last rebuild, and it looks like the magnet is flush with the front of the arm - see attached.
Attachments
But now I am not been able to get the right speed. The markings are moving leftwards, does that mean it is spinning fast or slow? Link to the video:
http://1drv.ms/1HgEJnD
Cheers,
abdraffay.
http://1drv.ms/1HgEJnD
Cheers,
abdraffay.
Could this be because I adjusted the shaft screw to increase the height earlier. I was reading in the manual, it says if the speed cannot be adjusted by turning the little screw towards the right of the shaft then open the plinth and adjust the screw the one we did earlier. since it was not the issue with the screw rather a falling magnet so maybe because of that adjustment and now with the magnet in place the speed is off.
Not sure if I am making any sense
Not sure if I am making any sense
Here are some other issues:
http://1drv.ms/1HgGXDn
which screw do you think needs to be tighten, the step at the base (that seems pretty fixed), step in the middle? seems more like it.
http://1drv.ms/1HgGXDn
which screw do you think needs to be tighten, the step at the base (that seems pretty fixed), step in the middle? seems more like it.
