Thorens TD160 arm rest

ThaSnipe

New Member
Hi guys,

It's a long time ago since my last post and I've advanced a lot.

The new trophy is a Thorens TD160 all original in a pretty neat state!
For only €140,- it really feels like a steal.

But since owning this beauty, I've had a lot of fights with the standard arm rest. I've looked into new arm rest on the TT without any luck. I did, however, find someone who has a TD160 for sale with a different arm rest; http://tinyurl.com/qcwt9yd. (I'm not sure if i can paste the link here).

The question that raised to me is; can any arm rest hold the TP16 arm? Are there different thicknesses in arms? And how about attaching the arm rest to the face plate?

There is a Marantz 6300 arm rest on ebay which looks like something I'm looking for, but I have no idea if this fits the Thorens ?

Thanks in advance!
- ThaSnipe


TL;DR - Can any arm rest hold any arm ? And can any arm rest be attached to any TT ?
 
I think that might be the MK-II arm rest. The stock one is not special. Mine doesn't hold the arm either, and I'd like something more like the one in the pic.

As long as the arm tube is similar in diameter, then another rest will work. I don't think the TP-16 arm is very different in size to a lot of common turntables with better rests.
 
I've got a td-145 and the tonearm has to be in the up position when it is at rest. Obviously, the height of the tonearm-rest in fixed; so the at-rest height is set to mate easily with the tonearm rest slot. I never have a problem with mine.

I don't know how the td-160 is supposed to work. It's possible that you could (should) raise or lower the cuing arm to be at the same height as the rest. There are only a few generally accepted design issues with the td-160/145 (like replacing the flimsy base) and I've not heard other owners wanting to improve the tonearm rest design.

But, if your rest in damaged, here's a source.

http://vintagethorens.com/home/td-160-td-145/tonearm-parts/

Anyway, good luck. Please post a pic if you do the mod. Also, try the Thorens Owners Group; they have a thread on this forum.
 
It's possible that you could (should) raise or lower the cuing arm to be at the same height as the rest. There are only a few generally accepted design issues with the td-160/145 (like replacing the flimsy base) and I've not heard other owners wanting to improve the tonearm rest design.

The problem is, the arm rest is in perfect condition.. When I want to take the arm out, I really have to apply force on the arm to get it out of the rest. It's something that makes me scared as hell being around this fragile stuff.

If I could get something like the AR XA arm rest I can just lift it out of the arm rest. Only problem is, can I apply an AR XA arm rest to the Thorens faceplate, and fits the Thorens arm in this rest...

But if these are not general sizes, it's time for a investigation ! :yes:


I found that site indeed, and it's amazing. But I'm still in big dilemma, I need a Tonearm Cap, but 28$ gives me some shivers..
 
The problem is, the arm rest is in perfect condition.. When I want to take the arm out, I really have to apply force on the arm to get it out of the rest. It's something that makes me scared as hell being around this fragile stuff.

I assume you have a tp-16 tonearm (silver barrel) and not a tp-11 (black barrel). The tp-11 is probably bigger in diameter that the tp-16 and, in looking at the td-160 mk II user manual, it has a different tonearm rest.

If you do have the tp-16, and the at-rest alignment is as you say, there shouldn't be any problem. Here's place to start looking for answers.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/thorens_dept_.htm

If that isn't enough, get back to me or any of the Thorens guys on the Thorens Group thread. Photos would be useful. Your're right to be concerned about this; and you shouldn't have to resort to changing the rest to fix it.
 
I found that site indeed, and it's amazing. But I'm still in big dilemma, I need a Tonearm Cap, but 28$ gives me some shivers..

Try a nickel and a piece of blue tack :D

Seriously though, I would look at some kind of DIY solution since you don't seem like you're obsessed with things being all original. The cap is just a piece of plastic, though agreeably the arm looks nicer with it in place, since the brass underneath doesn't fit the overall color scheme of things, but I'd never pay $28 for one.
 
Not sure about the OP's issue, but mine is that the lower raised bump on the arm rest is worn away, and the arm will float out of the holder if I walk across the floor. it will stay if leave the cue up, but I really don't want to keep pressure on that rubber piece on the lifting bar. There is also no lock, so if you move the table the arm flops around. I'd much rather have something that holds the arm a little more securely so I can move things without worrying that I'm going to rip the nail off if I forget to put a bread tie on the arm.
 
A small dollop of JBWeld will put that bump back to hold the arm. There should be enough movement of the top part of the arm rest to make a nice fit possible.
 
Not sure about the OP's issue, but mine is that the lower raised bump on the arm rest is worn away, and the arm will float out of the holder if I walk across the floor. it will stay if leave the cue up, but I really don't want to keep pressure on that rubber piece on the lifting bar. There is also no lock, so if you move the table the arm flops around.

My problem is the exact opposite. When the arm is in the rest it's just stuck. There's absolutely no movement. While that is doing it's work, when I wanna take out the arm out of the arm rest I really have to apply some force. This part just scares me seeing that this stuff is pretty fragile. When I have a little cradle as arm rest (as stated before, the AR XA arm rest) all I have to do is lift the arm lift and it's done!

Try a nickel and a piece of blue tack :D

Seriously though, I would look at some kind of DIY solution since you don't seem like you're obsessed with things being all original. The cap is just a piece of plastic, though agreeably the arm looks nicer with it in place, since the brass underneath doesn't fit the overall color scheme of things, but I'd never pay $28 for one.

That's some pretty good advice! But ofcourse I want to make my TT look as pretty as possible and a nickel isn't gonna cut it. I'll try it tho', and meanwhile be on the lookout for a donor Thorens!
 
I had a similar hate-hate relationship with the arm rest on my TD 150 when I began to tweak and modify the table. I looked high and low, and found an arm rest I liked much better. I kept the original "just in case" but it's been several years now and I'm still happy with the decision I made.

Jim
 

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The solution to this is really simple. When you want to move the arm out of the rest, don't move the arm by the head shell. Instead, put 2 fingers at the armrest in front of the opening, so the arm doesn't go flying, and push the arm out of the rest with your thumb. It's easy. I do this with my TD-145.
 
My problem is the exact opposite. When the arm is in the rest it's just stuck. There's absolutely no movement. While that is doing it's work, when I wanna take out the arm out of the arm rest I really have to apply some force. This part just scares me seeing that this stuff is pretty fragile. When I have a little cradle as arm rest (as stated before, the AR XA arm rest) all I have to do is lift the arm lift and it's done!

!

maybe we should just trade arm rests
 
The solution to this is really simple. When you want to move the arm out of the rest, don't move the arm by the head shell. Instead, put 2 fingers at the armrest in front of the opening, so the arm doesn't go flying, and push the arm out of the rest with your thumb. It's easy. I do this with my TD-145.

This is what I do with my TD160. If that bothersome, use a nail file and file a little of the hump down. Go slowly and continually test until you get it to where you are happy.
 
ThaSnipe, do you have a pic of the arm rest and how your arm looks? My concern is the stress on the bearings and gymbal when you have to use force to push/pull the arm, essentially pivoting the arm in the rest against the bearings until the rest gives way and releases the arm. My sense of it is that isn't good for the bearings, short or long term.

Normally what I'd recommend is to hold a heat source, like a soldering iron close to the outside to warm up the bend till its slightly pliable, then insert a slightly larger than arm tube diameter Tube in there and let it cool. Of course, adjust to personal liking.

The thorens rest is held in by two small screws from below the top plate. The armrest on the TD150 pictured above looks like the Technics SL1200 type rest with lock which could be added to one hole.
 
ThaSnipe, do you have a pic of the arm rest and how your arm looks? My concern is the stress on the bearings and gymbal when you have to use force to push/pull the arm, essentially pivoting the arm in the rest against the bearings until the rest gives way and releases the arm. My sense of it is that isn't good for the bearings, short or long term.

Normally what I'd recommend is to hold a heat source, like a soldering iron close to the outside to warm up the bend till its slightly pliable, then insert a slightly larger than arm tube diameter Tube in there and let it cool. Of course, adjust to personal liking.

The thorens rest is held in by two small screws from below the top plate. The armrest on the TD150 pictured above looks like the Technics SL1200 type rest with lock which could be added to one hole.

There should be no force on the bearings if the arm is released as I described. You are pushing the arm out of the rest right at the rest, working directly against friction at the rest, so the pivot does not see any force.
 
There should be no force on the bearings if the arm is released as I described. You are pushing the arm out of the rest right at the rest, working directly against friction at the rest, so the pivot does not see any force.

I agree with you if that method is used, but am concerned that some users would tug/push at the headshell lift only instead.
 
I agree with you if that method is used, but am concerned that some users would tug/push at the headshell lift only instead.

Yes, then it becomes like a lever with the pivot being the fulcrum. Also if one grabs the headshell there is a danger of turning it and messing up the azimuth alignment, not to mention uncontrolled motion.
 
There should be no force on the bearings if the arm is released as I described. You are pushing the arm out of the rest right at the rest, working directly against friction at the rest, so the pivot does not see any force.

+1. Just thumb the tonearm out; don't touch the headshell. Once you've got the hang of it, you'll be fine.
 
I feel so stupid for not thinking about it so simple. Tried it today, works like a charm. It's also nice knowing I can keep the table all original this way. Maybe I'll try using a little nail file (seeing as I'm not transporting anymore anyway) but I'll first look into using it this way.

It's a good thing I know this now, I just got in my new headshell and it's getting a new cartridge as well (a Nagaoka MP110 for those who are curious). So there's no need for concern about the turning or messing up the alignment now!

Thank you very much guys ! This really is a great place to be :thmbsp:
 
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